Just joined? Please introduce yourself.
Classic Edge Designs, LLC Prime Custom Cars, LLC MadMooks
Page 2 of 11 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 102

Thread: 56 Safari Wagon Project

  1. #11
    Administrator 567chevys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010

    Member #:3
    Location
    Kelso,Washington
    Posts
    2,054
    Hello Andrew ,


    Is this the item you where saying to use ?
    I have used them for years , They work great !!!

    Use for cleaning and finishing on all metals for removal of light rust, oxides and coatings.

    Scotch-Brite™ Roloc™ Surface Conditioning Disc, 2 inch, Coarse
    Attached Images Attached Images

    1955 2 DR Post
    1937 Chevy Coupe
    2019 Ford Suoer Duty F350
    2018 Ford Explorer
    1955 Chevy Nomad
    1934 Plymouth PE Coupe

  2. #12
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    141
    Thanks, I'll order a couple and give them a shot..

    Got the front sheetmetal back on today, I'm having a bit of difficulty getting the door gaps to line up. I'm following the Danchuk article here https://www.danchuk.com/images/Downl...djustments.pdf . I torqued the body mounts down, however there is a large amount of cancerous rust in the floor pan so I don't know how much it helped. The passenger side of the floor braces connect to the inner and outer rockers, but the drivers side inner to outer rocker is mostly separated and not . I'm wondering if maybe this might also be working against me in getting things lined up.

    Both doors have a gap at the top toward the cowl and push out.
    29


    30



    The bottom side is relatively close on both, they look similar to this.
    31




    I'm struggling to get the top side to push in at all. I've loosened up the hinges per the article and tried moving things around. I can get them to budge a little bit but by the time I get the door back open to snug them down everything is pretty close to where I started. When re-assembling the front sheet metal the drivers side fender took some coercing to get everything mounted back up. At some point it had a minor accident on that side and is shifted down a little. I wouldn't think this would affect the doors as much as what I'm seeing, the fenders seem to line up relatively close to where they should be on the top of the cowl next to the windshield.
    Any suggestions on getting the doors to line up? Should I remove and inspect the doors and hinges and try starting from scratch?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by NickP; 05-08-2018 at 01:59 PM.

  3. #13
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,008
    Quote Originally Posted by 56Safari View Post
    Should I remove and inspect the doors and hinges and try starting from scratch?
    That's what I'd do. Make sure the nut plates in the door jamb are free to move. Make sure the hinges are good. The fender looks too close to the cowl to me, but the doors look too far out. I fought this and ended up getting the door where it needed to be relative to the rocker and quarter, then matched the fender to the door. I had to slice the cowl and move it outboard. My car was never wrecked.

    07040003.JPG

    07040005.JPG

    20120308_0020.JPG

    20120308_0022.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  4. #14
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    141
    Thanks, for the closeups that was helpful/motivating to head back into the shop to take a further look. I took both hinges out and inspected them. The bushings have a little play so I think I will go ahead and order a set of replacement bushings for the hinges. The area below the lower hinge was filled with debris.
    32


    And after extensive vacuuming
    33




    I'm pretty sure that buildup helped fuel the rotting of my floors. The lower hinge nut plate also has one stripped hole, so I'll need to get that replaced. I was able to get the door gap a lot closer, it still isn't perfect but I'll wait until I get the new nut plate to tweak that side any further. Also, I think you're right about the fender gap its a little close. Because I'm seeing the gap on both sides I believe the front might be sagging or pushed down a bit and exaggerating that gap at the doors. I'll look into that tomorrow.
    34
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by NickP; 05-08-2018 at 01:54 PM.

  5. #15
    Registered Member rustay56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015

    Member #:2582
    Location
    Queensland Australia
    Posts
    41
    The 2 inch Roloc disc is great on your 90 deg die grinder for small areas but we need to think bigger.3M make a 4in & 5in one for your grinder. Norton make a 7 inch one as well. Get the purple one with the back support. Dont lean on it hard just let the disc do its job and be careful when you come into contact with the panel as it will remove metal. I would remove most of the the paint and filler before I set all my gaps, That front fender might have had a hit sometime in the past and the profile might not be correct so it makes your door look worse. Good Luck.

    Regards Andrew.

  6. #16
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by rustay56 View Post
    I would remove most of the the paint and filler before I set all my gaps, That front fender might have had a hit sometime in the past and the profile might not be correct so it makes your door look worse. Good Luck.

    Regards Andrew.
    Thanks, I'm mainly just trying to get my door gaps set before I do my 1 piece floor pan and outer rocker install. I think I will follow Cnuts advice and line the doors up with the rear quarters first. It looks like I'm going to be waiting at least 1 more week before this shop has the Dana 44 ready for me, so if I can get everything lined up I may go ahead and move the frame over to start on the floor pan and open that can of worms.

  7. #17
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    141
    Finally got the body off the frame today, I'd planned to get it done last weekend but I wasn't feeling all that well.

    welded up some mounts for the rear using leftover 3/16 square tube for the top and 3/16 flat bar for the bottom.



    I also used 2" 3/16 square tube scraps to make the cowl mounts. The came together pretty quickly and worked quite well.




    I decided to use half of my rotisserie to lift the rear portion because I only have one engine hoist. When I built the rotisserie I made some caster legs to slide into each half so I could roll the rotisserie around easily when not in use. To keep it from tipping over when lifting the body I put both caster legs on it. I welded an additional 3/4" nut on the backside to tighten the supporting leg down. It worked quite well, the hydraulic ram on the rotisserie made for smooth lifting up and down.










  8. #18
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    141
    And if anyone needs a Pontiac frame and is in the TN area, I'll let it go real cheap. theres some minor damage on the bottom of the drivers side frame hump, shouldn't be too tough to straighten out.





  9. #19
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    141
    I rough cut the floor out today with my plasma cutter. Now I'm going around and carefully removing the remaining spot welds on the adjoining panels, I'll finish up the rest tomorrow. I also found a big mouse nest in the passenger side rocker panel. I still need to dial in a better system for removing the spot welds, I'm currently just using a right angle die grander with a cutoff wheel.. It works but its going pretty slow.

    I placed a few orders today as well. I went ahead and purchased a 55/56 chevy toe panel to help tie in the floor pan to the firewall. I was trying to make the Pontiac toe panel work for the interim, but after some closer measurements the floor was coming up too short and also they seam in different places. I also called SPI and ordered a gallon of black epoxy primer and activator to prime all the panel mating surfaces before they get welded together.






    [IMG]IMG_9315 by james montgomery, on Flickr[/IMG]

  10. #20
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    141
    Is there any way to fix/re-link the photos from my older posts on this thread? My first few posts have photos hosted by photobucket, and I can't figure out how to edit my older posts, I can only edit the newer posts from this year.

Page 2 of 11 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •