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Thread: 56 Safari Wagon Project

  1. #81
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    If you have a Northern Tools somewhere close, they have glass and black ?? for less than $10/50 lb bag; also if you can't find fine grit sand anywhere else, then check and see if there's a tombstone/granite engraving company around (sometimes they are situated near large cemeteries). They buy it in bulk and generally will sell you a few 100 lb bags if you beg...

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    If you have a Northern Tools somewhere close, they have glass and black ?? for less than $10/50 lb bag; also if you can't find fine grit sand anywhere else, then check and see if there's a tombstone/granite engraving company around (sometimes they are situated near large cemeteries). They buy it in bulk and generally will sell you a few 100 lb bags if you beg...

    I have a northern tool nearby, but it looks like they only sell ALC media now and its $40 for a #25 bucket.. It looks like they used to sell Clean Bite glass media by the bag, but its discontinued and I can't seem to find anyone else who sells it.. Now my gears are turning, because we don't recycle glass in TN unless you go out of your way to do it (which most people, restaurants and bars do not).... I know I could get 10 times more than I could ever want or store for free..... hmm, I'm going to add making glass abrasive to my rabbit hole list of google research.

    I'm also not going to blast any panels that I'm replacing except for the edges where they're spot welded, so the firewall, doors, tailgate, rear quarters and cargo floor won't need to be blasted... so that will help cut my costs quite a bit.

  3. #83
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    I'm finally off the road for a couple of weeks, so I'm going to try to knock a few things out on the wagon.... I finished removing the inner rocker panels today that were left behind from when I cut the floor out.. then I cut out the toe panel up to the edges of the A-pillar/cowl panel... I still might need to cut out more of the toe panel... I'm going to wait and see how much further I need to go until I test fit the floor/toe panel.



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    The edges of the cowl panel where it attaches to the toe panel are a bit different between the pontiac / chevy... I took a few measurements and compared it against my replaceent A-pillar/cowl panel I purchased for the drivers side... It looks like I can hammer the 90 degree flange flat on the passenger side and spot weld the toe panel to the straightened lower a/pillar/cowl panel

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    Here's a pic of the replacement a pillar/cowl that I bought for the drivers side.

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    Hoping to get a few more warm days before winter, I would like to epoxy prime the inner/outer rockers and any seam areas where the floor will be welded in.. I haven't finished insulating my shop yet, might have to get moving on that
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #84
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    The Huntsville, AL Northern Tools store has (had a few days ago) clean brite glass and black diamond for $7 to $7.50 per 50 lb bag. If you're not too far way (aren't you in TN?).... then that would be an alternative, OR check with your local Northern Tools and see if they will *obtain* some from a store which has it..?

  5. #85
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    Thanks Bama, I actually ordered about 250lbs of Black Bull glass bead that I have sitting in the shop right now. I found it from Home depot with free shipping for around $20 per 50lb... I'll ask the next time I'm up at Northern Tool to see if they can get me some.

  6. #86
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    I finally got a few things done... The weather was calling for 75 degrees today and tomorrow, so I started prepping to spray some SPI epoxy primer on the inner and outer rockers, as well as a couple of patch panels.. I also decided to re-spray an old craftsman toolbox I had laying around.

    Initially I planned to fabricate my own inner quarter panel to floor pan patches, but after losing so much time on the road I went a head and followed 55chevysedanX4's recommendation and bought the patch panels from a guy on ebay. Thanks for sharing the link, with the exception of the bead roll they're perfect ( he told me he could have made me a set without the bead roll after I had already received them, I should have asked him first).

    I started off with some hammers and dollies to straighten them out... They straightened out pretty easy


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    After being fairly successful straightening the patch panels out, I decided to tackle a couple of dents on the inner wheel wells.


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    There's still a couple of fine ridges/creases left in the quarters, I decided to stop there until I can figure out how to lift those creases... I ordered a hammer with a better pick end than what I currently have, I'm thinking maybe that will help.... any ideas / recommendations / or links to videos would be appreciated.


    Next I decided to test fit the floor pan to see how everything is going to line up before I start working on patching the inner panels... I was surprised that there is a bit of difference between the chevy and pontiac floor pans. The Chevy floor pan is shorter in the back than the pontiac, shouldn't be a big deal.. I'll just have to trim the existing inner quarters a bit.


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    Next I started stripping the EDP paint from the outer rockers. I tried using paint stripper but it didn't really do that well.. So I put them in the blasting cabinet and bead blasted them. I wasn't feeling confident that the bead blasted surface would be agressive enough for the epoxy primer to bite on, so I scuffed them up inside and out with 80 grit paper doing the best I could to mimic what a DA sander would do. Any better ideas for how to prep difficult to reach panels with multiple compound curves? It took about an hour just to do both rockers inside and out.


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    Next I dropped the floor pan and stripped the inner rockers and front and back seam areas. This time I used a nylon stripping wheel that worked very well. It was gentle enough (far more gentle than a stripping wheel), but it stripped the paint quick enough for me to not get impatient and give up.

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    After that I sprayed everything with 2 coats of black SPI epoxy, and have it all curing inside my detached garage.

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    Also, wanted to say thanks bama.. I went to NT and picked up 400lbs of crushed glass media @ 7.50 per 50lb bag!.

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  7. #87
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    Nice work 56 safari, kept the pictures coming, and is that a BUD LIGHT can?

  8. #88
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    Where?? better not be, its definitely not my flavor... If you're talking about the blue spot on that crate of quartz I'm too lazy to move thats my paint gun.... Devilbliss FLG4

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by 56Safari View Post
    Any better ideas for how to prep difficult to reach panels with multiple compound curves? It took about an hour just to do both rockers inside and out.
    I'm a little late here but here is something that I was very skeptical about, but after talking to the owner of Tamco Paint Co. he offered to send me a qt of his (Direct to anything epoxy primer) to test. THAT IS DIRECT TO ANYTHING WITHOUT SANDING

    So I had some parts stripped using the electrolysis method, which leaves the parts smooth, if that is what they were under the paint. That is it doesn't etch the metal like acid dipping does, so it was a good surface to test the epoxy on and it held on tight through my test almost as good as SPI does with an 80 grit DA scratch, and that's pretty good. I let it cure for 7 days, and made sure the part was cleaned the way described in the instructions.

    I still do the 80 grit DA scratch when I can, but for those hard to reach areas, I don't hesitate to use Tamco's Direct To Anything Epoxy. Its about the same price as SPI, and comes in 3 colors.

  10. #90
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    Awesome, thanks for the heads up.. I'll keep it in mind, I may pick some up for those hard to reach areas...... as a "test" I actually sprayed SPI on an old 27" craftsman toolbox after I bead blasted it inside and out(no DA scratches after that). My plan is to use it without any drawer liners for a while and see how it holds up, that'll at least give me a reference for how well it sticks on a freshly blasted surface...

    I actually just finished assembling it, came out pretty good after I rhino lined the exterior. (one drawer fell over, so I've scuffed it up and I'll spray it again once its warm enough).

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