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Thread: 56 Safari Wagon Project

  1. #11
    Administrator 567chevys's Avatar
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    Hello Andrew ,


    Is this the item you where saying to use ?
    I have used them for years , They work great !!!

    Use for cleaning and finishing on all metals for removal of light rust, oxides and coatings.

    Scotch-Brite™ Roloc™ Surface Conditioning Disc, 2 inch, Coarse
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    1955 2 DR Post
    1937 Chevy Coupe
    2023 Ford Super Duty F350 TREMOR
    2019 Corvette Z06
    1955 Chevy Nomad
    1935 Ford 2dr Slant back I have 4

  2. #12
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    Thanks, I'll order a couple and give them a shot..

    Got the front sheetmetal back on today, I'm having a bit of difficulty getting the door gaps to line up. I'm following the Danchuk article here https://www.danchuk.com/images/Downl...djustments.pdf . I torqued the body mounts down, however there is a large amount of cancerous rust in the floor pan so I don't know how much it helped. The passenger side of the floor braces connect to the inner and outer rockers, but the drivers side inner to outer rocker is mostly separated and not . I'm wondering if maybe this might also be working against me in getting things lined up.

    Both doors have a gap at the top toward the cowl and push out.
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    The bottom side is relatively close on both, they look similar to this.
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    I'm struggling to get the top side to push in at all. I've loosened up the hinges per the article and tried moving things around. I can get them to budge a little bit but by the time I get the door back open to snug them down everything is pretty close to where I started. When re-assembling the front sheet metal the drivers side fender took some coercing to get everything mounted back up. At some point it had a minor accident on that side and is shifted down a little. I wouldn't think this would affect the doors as much as what I'm seeing, the fenders seem to line up relatively close to where they should be on the top of the cowl next to the windshield.
    Any suggestions on getting the doors to line up? Should I remove and inspect the doors and hinges and try starting from scratch?
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    Last edited by NickP; 05-08-2018 at 01:59 PM.

  3. #13
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 56Safari View Post
    Should I remove and inspect the doors and hinges and try starting from scratch?
    That's what I'd do. Make sure the nut plates in the door jamb are free to move. Make sure the hinges are good. The fender looks too close to the cowl to me, but the doors look too far out. I fought this and ended up getting the door where it needed to be relative to the rocker and quarter, then matched the fender to the door. I had to slice the cowl and move it outboard. My car was never wrecked.

    07040003.JPG

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    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #14
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    Thanks, for the closeups that was helpful/motivating to head back into the shop to take a further look. I took both hinges out and inspected them. The bushings have a little play so I think I will go ahead and order a set of replacement bushings for the hinges. The area below the lower hinge was filled with debris.
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    And after extensive vacuuming
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    I'm pretty sure that buildup helped fuel the rotting of my floors. The lower hinge nut plate also has one stripped hole, so I'll need to get that replaced. I was able to get the door gap a lot closer, it still isn't perfect but I'll wait until I get the new nut plate to tweak that side any further. Also, I think you're right about the fender gap its a little close. Because I'm seeing the gap on both sides I believe the front might be sagging or pushed down a bit and exaggerating that gap at the doors. I'll look into that tomorrow.
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    Last edited by NickP; 05-08-2018 at 01:54 PM.

  5. #15
    Registered Member rustay56's Avatar
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    The 2 inch Roloc disc is great on your 90 deg die grinder for small areas but we need to think bigger.3M make a 4in & 5in one for your grinder. Norton make a 7 inch one as well. Get the purple one with the back support. Dont lean on it hard just let the disc do its job and be careful when you come into contact with the panel as it will remove metal. I would remove most of the the paint and filler before I set all my gaps, That front fender might have had a hit sometime in the past and the profile might not be correct so it makes your door look worse. Good Luck.

    Regards Andrew.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustay56 View Post
    I would remove most of the the paint and filler before I set all my gaps, That front fender might have had a hit sometime in the past and the profile might not be correct so it makes your door look worse. Good Luck.

    Regards Andrew.
    Thanks, I'm mainly just trying to get my door gaps set before I do my 1 piece floor pan and outer rocker install. I think I will follow Cnuts advice and line the doors up with the rear quarters first. It looks like I'm going to be waiting at least 1 more week before this shop has the Dana 44 ready for me, so if I can get everything lined up I may go ahead and move the frame over to start on the floor pan and open that can of worms.

  7. #17
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    Finally got the body off the frame today, I'd planned to get it done last weekend but I wasn't feeling all that well.

    welded up some mounts for the rear using leftover 3/16 square tube for the top and 3/16 flat bar for the bottom.



    I also used 2" 3/16 square tube scraps to make the cowl mounts. The came together pretty quickly and worked quite well.




    I decided to use half of my rotisserie to lift the rear portion because I only have one engine hoist. When I built the rotisserie I made some caster legs to slide into each half so I could roll the rotisserie around easily when not in use. To keep it from tipping over when lifting the body I put both caster legs on it. I welded an additional 3/4" nut on the backside to tighten the supporting leg down. It worked quite well, the hydraulic ram on the rotisserie made for smooth lifting up and down.










  8. #18
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    And if anyone needs a Pontiac frame and is in the TN area, I'll let it go real cheap. theres some minor damage on the bottom of the drivers side frame hump, shouldn't be too tough to straighten out.





  9. #19
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    I rough cut the floor out today with my plasma cutter. Now I'm going around and carefully removing the remaining spot welds on the adjoining panels, I'll finish up the rest tomorrow. I also found a big mouse nest in the passenger side rocker panel. I still need to dial in a better system for removing the spot welds, I'm currently just using a right angle die grander with a cutoff wheel.. It works but its going pretty slow.

    I placed a few orders today as well. I went ahead and purchased a 55/56 chevy toe panel to help tie in the floor pan to the firewall. I was trying to make the Pontiac toe panel work for the interim, but after some closer measurements the floor was coming up too short and also they seam in different places. I also called SPI and ordered a gallon of black epoxy primer and activator to prime all the panel mating surfaces before they get welded together.






    [IMG]IMG_9315 by james montgomery, on Flickr[/IMG]

  10. #20
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    Is there any way to fix/re-link the photos from my older posts on this thread? My first few posts have photos hosted by photobucket, and I can't figure out how to edit my older posts, I can only edit the newer posts from this year.

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