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Thread: Nomad final prep and paint

  1. #11
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    A couple of tricks I have learned. Air blower works well, but the powder goes everywhere. I use a shop vac and a nylon brush end to vac the sandpaper. Another thing that works well is a cheap piece of carpet. Wipe the sand paper on it and it will be clean.

    600 under base is a good place to be.

    I'm not in favor of using a white base as a sealer. I understand the white to give the orange a pop. But the white base is NOT A SEALER. A sealer will provide a barrier between all the substrates used before the basecoat or first layers of single stage. It works to keep different materials reacting differently to the solvents in the new materials. A base paint will NOT DO THIS. The result can be different appearance of the base in different areas because of what is under it being different. A sealer will make it all uniform. Many sealers have a window of use, and if sprayed and top coated within that window you will be good to go. Outside the window and a scuff sand or reapplication is needed.

  2. #12
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Found this on the PPG p-sheet:

    "K36 is a premium quality primer surfacer for today’s advanced technology finishes. K36 is a gray, high build, fast drying product that has superior sanding characteristics and excellent gloss holdout. It may also be used as a tintable primer surfacer and as a wet-on-wet sealer. For use as a wet-on-wet sealer see bulletin P-169S. K36 can be used over sanded original finishes and/or properly prepared and treated bare steel, aluminum, fiberglass and plastic substrates. K36 must be mixed with K201 hardener for use as a primer surfacer."

    http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/p...r_Surfacer.pdf

    It does sand very well.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #13
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    A little update....

    I re-shot the roof with K36 and noticed some very slight low spots right at the top of the b-pillars on both sides that I could see while the primer was wet, as well as two small spots near the windshield above the drip rails. So I made a couple of passes there to try to add primer for blocking. It's a little tricky to keep the block in the right orientation at the top of the b-pillar, and it's easy to sand up and down on the b-pillar and cause a dip at the top. After sanding, it looks like the low spots are virtually gone and one more coat and some careful sanding will eliminate them.

    I had removed the drip tabs on the sides of the cowl at the a-pillars long ago so I primed them and re-attached them with Evercoat 822 2K seam sealer and screws, and smoothed the seam sealer around them. I also reached inside the cowl vents at the base of the windshield and sealed the seam to the firewall to keep water from getting in there. It was really difficult to do since the openings are so small, but I managed to do it by putting the sealer on my fingers and smearing it down the seam as far as I could, then using tools through the cowl access panels to apply it where I couldn't reach. The only place I can't figure out how to seal is about 8" in the center of the cowl, because it's so tight in there. Seems like I need a flexible tip on the sealer tube. I had to order another tube of $ealer so I can't finish that until it comes in.

    I repaired the new A/C mount weld areas on the firewall and sanded them down then shot another coat of K36, blocked it out with guide coat and shot another coat. It's amazing when you think you're close to being done, and how much stuff you end up finding when you sand carefully. I used a little U-Pol 2K glazing putty here and there to fill some minor imperfections. The firewall engine setback is pretty difficult to sand too, since there are a lot of angles. But now the firewall and cowl are 95% complete.

    Once the cowl is fully sealed and primed I'll sand one more time and apply what I hope is the final coat of primer that I'll sand just before paint. The tailpan and tailgate area is also ready after blocking with guide coat and shooting one more coat of K36. I still need to detail sand the tailgate opening too.

    Once I get the body on the rotisserie I plan to prime and sand the door openings and detail them as much as I can.

    I also want to locate and mount the side mirrors and I have two stock-type mirrors I want to use. I find I use both the driver's side and passenger side mirrors a lot on all my vehicles so I want to mount both of them on my Nomad. Any tips on where they should go? I think I may have to put the driver's seat in to sit in to locate them.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #14
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I have a question that's been bugging me for a long time. Do I paint the inside of the body or not? My interior guy thinks I should, but I see cars that are only primed inside, and only a few that are fully painted. He says he thinks I only need the base and not the clearcoat but that seems half-assed to me .

    The paint is really expensive, but I don't want to cheap out now. If I shoot the inside, do I mask off the outside so I don't paint it...I would think so? I'd probably do the interior in my shop instead of in my painter's booth. I may even paint and clearcoat the dash myself, so he can focus only on the outside of the body.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #15
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    As long as you understand that the dash needs metal work, filler, lots of sanding, and proper spraying techniques just like the outer body. Of course, the top of the dash is sprayed through the windshield opening, and keep in mind that it is easier to mask the dash while the outside is painted, then it is to properly mask the outside while the dash is painted.

    Personally, I don't understand painting hidden interior parts with body color. Does the Good Guys custom of the year have body color on all of the interior?

    Last edited by LEE T; 05-11-2017 at 04:15 AM.

  6. #16
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    It seems like a waste of time and money to shoot base/clear on areas like the floor. For what? It will never be seen after the sound deadener goes on. If its to seal it from moisture, then the epoxy primer will take care of that.

  7. #17
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback guys. Take a look at Bamanomad's new red 57....it's completely sprayed body color inside. I don't know if the GG car has body color sprayed throughout the interior or not, because it's all covered with upholstery . New cars are sprayed inside and out...why do they do that? In any case I probably need to at least re-shoot epoxy on the interior because there's some areas I've welded on or re-worked. Maybe I should do that with a different color than gray DPLF.

    I don't plan to put sound deadener over every square inch of the interior like some guys do because I think it's waste and just adds weight. I'll put some large pieces here and there, on the floor and inside the doors, but that's about it. I already applied it inside the tailgate. The roof will get some deadener and thermal insulation inside as will the firewall. All the sound deadener needs to do is keep the panel from vibrating to be effective. I'm using RAAMmat that I bought years ago because I think Dynamat is grossly over-priced for what it is.

    The top of the dash isn't even an issue as far as paint but it does need to be smooth. It will be covered with charcoal leather as will the beltline moldings...at least that's the current plan. I still have some work to do on the lower dash (below the dash trim) since I welded it together and I need to tweak it a little to fit my valence pieces better. I haven't really even started to detail the interior yet. My interior guy needs the windshield out when he gets the car.

    Any tips on mirror location, or how to determine where to put them?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #18
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    CN, you brought up a good point about the overuse of sound deadener by most builders. I watched a demonstration where a 1 square inch piece of Dynamat was applied onto a drum cymbal. When struck afterward, it went from a shimmering crash to a dead thud.

  9. #19
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitchin'57 View Post
    CN, you brought up a good point about the overuse of sound deadener by most builders. I watched a demonstration where a 1 square inch piece of Dynamat was applied onto a drum cymbal. When struck afterward, it went from a shimmering crash to a dead thud.
    But do you only want one square inch protected from heat? Even if you only use the heat shield material in the floor, some degree of noise cancelation is bound to be present too.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCW View Post
    But do you only want one square inch protected from heat? Even if you only use the heat shield material in the floor, some degree of noise cancelation is bound to be present too.
    I'm talking about Dynamat Xtreme, which is a sound deadener. It isn't sold as a thermal barrier. Dynamat brand sells Dynaliner, which is a thermal barrier.

    CN, sorry to get your build thread off course! Back to our regularly scheduled Nomad build...

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