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Thread: Nomad final prep and paint

  1. #141
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    I've used SEM Rock-it like HR4DR55 did above and found the texture to be rather subtle as well -- I'll be going with it again on my '57. I tinted it in the same fashion -- just pouring in paint to the mixture. This was a solid color, so can't comment on how it'll look with a metallic. It did match the rest of the body color just fine though, there wasn't any noticeable difference outside of the texture and shine. It cleaned up fairly well, but we never got it all that dirty to begin with.

    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    To me anyway, anything other than black on inner wheel wells are visually distracting by taking your eyes away from the exterior lines of the car. You can't look away. I bought a new white Chevy truck years ago and couldn't stop looking at the white inner rear fenders. After I painted them black the truck looked like it was suppose to. As far as textured finishes on anything, anything other than black very seldom looks better. and would be another focal point. Show off the shiny good looking parts.
    I don't think that problem is nearly as pronounced on the Tri-Five -- the inner fenders are hardly noticeable from most angles due to the rear quarter overlap and how far inset the fronts are. That, coupled with how low his car is, you're not likely to notice them unless you're getting up close and personal.

  2. #142
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    I know it might not show up much in person, but it pops right out in the picture at that angle.

  3. #143
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I personally like the front inner fender extensions to be body color. Then it doesn't look as much like an afterthought as if they were black. Mine will be body color...... I think they stick out more if they're not.
    Last edited by chevynut; 06-29-2017 at 07:47 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #144
    Registered Member hotrod4dr55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Nice car HR4D55. Looks like the body and paint work turned out great. How soon before you're driving it?

    According to the tintable Raptor Liner specs the stuff is clear. I'll post a confirmation when I get it.
    Thanks, it's not my best paint job, but it wet sanded and buffed pretty good after painting it in my garage with poor lighting. I did block it pretty extensively, so I'm pleased with the straightness. I hope to be able to drive it in a month or two. I put the interior in last month. I'm only lacking a few odds and ends like finishing up the A/C, painting the garnish moldings, etc... It's been 15 years since this one has seen the road.

    I forgot to mention I put tinted bedliner under the front fenders too, but I had the inner fenders and extensions powder coated satin black. The extensions are just not installed in the picture I posted. My grandmother bought this new, so I wanted a more stock look on mine other than the drivetrain, wheels and stance on this one. I personally the inner fenders and extensions body color on high end builds.

  5. #145
    Registered Member Tabasco's Avatar
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    I don't understand why anyone would put expensive paint on the underside of the roof, inside firewall, inner quarters, interior floor pans and cargo floor. If these areas are covered with epoxy primer then they won't rust. And these areas won't show, so why do it?

    I can see why Foose or Kendig would do it. They are charging six figures for custom builds. If the owner shows up occasionally to check on progress and everything is painted, then he thinks he is getting his money's worth. If you are building your own car in your shop, you are just wasting time and money to paint these areas.

    But it is your time and money. If you have plenty of both, go for it. I'm short of both, so if it doesn't show on my cars it doesn't get painted.

  6. #146
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tabasco View Post
    I don't understand why anyone would put expensive paint on the underside of the roof, inside firewall, inner quarters, interior floor pans and cargo floor. If these areas are covered with epoxy primer then they won't rust. And these areas won't show, so why do it?
    A third of my firewall won't show and will be totally covered with inner fenders when the car is assembled, so why paint it all? There's a lot of stuff that I've done that won't show....it's just my nature to do the best job I can everywhere I can. I understand your point though, and I really need to get this thing done.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #147
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    I've been using the Raptor Bed liner for a while now. The tintable is not clear like a quart of cleat paint. It is milky. I believe this is due to the fact that it has a flattening agent in it. I have used it with different colors and also on my current sedan Delivery project. My Color is Regal Turquoise and is a metallic. You can see this in the finished product. I went on line and did some research about it. I found out that you can change the texture SIGNIFICANTLY by reducing it with urethane reducer. I like to spray it with a large tip primer gun and the texture is very nice. When I want it to be lumpy and look like factory undercoating, I use the gun supplied with the kit. Once you buy the gun, you can easily clean it and re-use it again and again.

    You can use straight base or single stage paint to get the same result.

    DSCN5516.JPGDSCN5519.JPGDSCN5523.JPGDSCN5525.JPG
    Last edited by 55wagoncrazy; 07-01-2017 at 06:10 PM.

  8. #148
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Finally got around to locating my outside rear-view mirrors. It's kinda hard to take a drill to a nice primed and blocked surface . I really debated what I wanted to do with them, but in the end I located the passenger side one and put the driver's side in the same place fore and aft. It ended up that the ideal location for me was about 3/8" behind the stock location, so I could see the entire passenger side mirror. With the convex passenger side mirror I can see the side of the car and a wide view behind me. Another project scratched off the list.

    Instead of using the included sheetmetal screws for the rear mount, I epoxied some of these 10-32 nuts inside the door using some of my super-duty aircraft epoxy. I think they give a much more secure mounting. I was afraid the sheetmetal screw would be hard to "adjust" the height correctly, and it could rip the sheetmetal "threads" out easily if the mirror was bumped. The front screw is still a sheetmetal screw because it goes in at a slight angle.

    20170816_012.JPG

    Here's the final locations.....the lines represents the "stock" location per BN.

    20170817_001.JPG

    20170817_005.JPG
    Last edited by chevynut; 08-17-2017 at 11:58 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #149
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    That positioning looks great to me, CN... and the difference from stock is so slight, I don't think it would ever be detected by anyone who didn't know.. and the slightly rearward location will help viewability of the passenger side from the driver's seat. I think I will do the same on my '57 Nomad...

  10. #150
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Bamanomad, realize that I'm only 5' 7" so my seat is further forward than most guys by at least a couple of inches . In the "stock" location, my passenger mirror was only slightly blocked on the very edge by the window track but most of it was visible for me. Moving it back slightly made it all visible so that's what I decided to do. The convex mirror really helped and I had no problem getting it adjusted to the correct position.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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