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Thread: Nomad final prep and paint

  1. #1
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Nomad final prep and paint

    Now that my Nomad's C4 chassis is essentially finished and the Ramjet 502 BBC engine is upgraded and installed, I have moved back to the body to do the final priming and blocking to get it ready for paint. I had already prepped and primed the body with PPG DPLF, followed by Slicksand, lots of blocking, and a coat of PPG K36. This is where it was before I started the interior construction and then blew it apart to paint and assemble the chassis....can't believe it's already been 5 years.

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    To get all the dust and shop crap off of it, I washed the body with Simple Green and water, and then wiped it all down with PPG Oil and Wax Remover. I sanded the roof without guide coat because I could see pretty easily where I sanded and where any low spots were. The roof was already very straight and this is after blocking with 400 grit:

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    Then I applied some Evercoat guide coat to both sides.....

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    I blocked the doors and quarters with dry 400 grit using 9", 16", and 24" sanding blocks, depending on where I was on the panels. I have a couple of very minor low spots left that I believe will be addressed with another coat of primer.

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    I also guide-coated the tailgate and tailpan areas and sanded with 400 grit. I think it's pretty darn straight now.....

    IMG_3012.JPG

    I still have the firewall to finish since I had to add new mounting studs for the Gen IV Vintage Air. My plan now is to do the final seam sealing, then spray the last (I hope) coat of PPG K36 urethane primer. I want to do a little more work on the interior before I remove everything and put the body on the rotisserie for final priming of the underside. Everything has PPG DPLF on it but I need to do some touchup after welding for the console, etc. A little seam sealer and sanding and the bottom will be ready too. Hopefully I can get to paint by early summer.

    One question for Robert or whoever can reply without any of the typical snide remarks....once I spray the final coat of primer, should I sand with 400 or 600, or both? Wet or dry?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #2
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    So what I'm hearing is that K36 was the last thing applied? That's their high build, correct?


    Here's what my answer is in using SPI. The SPI is more impervious to water intrusion, as compared to Slick sand, which is about a sponge. So with an epoxy as my final coats, I would have no fear of wet sanding, where using slick sand should be blocked dry. Not sure of the properties of K36 re: how much it likes water, if it is a high build. I would want to wet sand the final coat to 600 grit, and would want to do that on something that isn't going to soak up water. If K36 tends to absorb water (IDK, I don't use it) then I would use something like the SPI to seal and a final 600 grit wet sand. If it doesn't soak up water, use wet sanding directly on the K36. DO you have enough build on the K36 to prevent sand throughs? I think the problem you may have is K36 and SS being the same/similar color, any sand throughs may be hard to detect. Where if you had a black primer on top of the light grey SS, you can see when you're getting close to sanding through..
    Robert



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  3. #3
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    All friction aside...It looks great.

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    I am not a fan of wet sanding primers PERIOD. Too much is uncontrollable when water is used around iron. I dry sand everything except color sanding paint and clear. Why ask for trouble when you don't have to.

    I agree with Robert on the guide coat. I tint any final coats of primer with a contrasting color. When sanded you will find the highs and lows faster with this method. I don't worry about blocking the lows that have a tint out, because it is all the same material, just tinted. Apply the next layers and then the final with a tint. I use 5 basic color tints so when I take photos I know what block sanding it was because of the color of the guide coat.

    Myself, I don't use any sandpaper finer than 320 on urethane primer. Only when I get to sealer do I use any 400 or finer. The final grit is determined by the material that will be going over it. Too fine and the new material will not have enough surface to grab. Too coarse and the solvent will swell the scratches uniformly like with base before clear.

  5. #5
    Administrator 567chevys's Avatar
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    Looks really Good

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  6. #6
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55wagoncrazy View Post
    I am not a fan of wet sanding primers PERIOD. Too much is uncontrollable when water is used around iron. I dry sand everything except color sanding paint and clear. Why ask for trouble when you don't have to.

    I agree with Robert on the guide coat. I tint any final coats of primer with a contrasting color. When sanded you will find the highs and lows faster with this method. I don't worry about blocking the lows that have a tint out, because it is all the same material, just tinted. Apply the next layers and then the final with a tint. I use 5 basic color tints so when I take photos I know what block sanding it was because of the color of the guide coat.

    Myself, I don't use any sandpaper finer than 320 on urethane primer. Only when I get to sealer do I use any 400 or finer. The final grit is determined by the material that will be going over it. Too fine and the new material will not have enough surface to grab. Too coarse and the solvent will swell the scratches uniformly like with base before clear.
    I agree with 55WagonCrazy on this.. 320 grit dry on primer prior to paint; wet sand only after paint. for all the reasons he states.. and this is what most paint shops and painters recommend as well.

  7. #7
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys. I haven't wet sanded anything and I used a fairly light pressure on the semi-flexible sanding blocks (K-Block Firm & Flex). I can pretty easily tell when I hit the Slicksand because it's more brown than the K36, which is a urethane primer (not hi build like K38 is). In fact, I can even see the low spots in just the K36 pretty well, but the guidecoat helps a lot. When I go through the Slicksand I hit the dark gray DPLF but since it's all previously blocked there's almost no sand-throughs to epoxy.

    We don't plan to use an epoxy sealer before basecoat. Instead, we're going to use a white urethane basecoat that goes on thin and smooth under the orange basecoat. It's my understanding that sealer is used to make the surface a uniform color before the basecoat and the white base does that. I was going to use a white epoxy sealer, but my painter says we'd have to sand it to get the finish he wants. The white is supposed to make the orange "pop" more in the sun, and it really seems to work on the frame.

    I don't know about the 320 grit....it doesn't seem smooth enough to me. I'll consult with my painter, but I think he said I need to get to 600 before basecoat. Maybe dry versus wet makes a difference. The main hassle with the dry sanding is constantly getting the powder off the paper. I used my air gun and it works pretty good.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #8
    Registered Member rustay56's Avatar
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    Lazlo when I finish sand my jobs I go from 320 dry and use a product called Purple Haze, its a Purple tinted liquid which you pour onto a rag and apply to your panels, I then use 500 dry on a DA sander with an Interface Pad. If you have a shop vac connect it to your sander and use discs with holes in them. The paper lasts longer and you can see where your going easier. The purple haze soaks into the primer and shows up the scratches more than dry guide does, only downside is it only comes in 1 gallon containers ( In Australia ) which is enough to do 5 cars. Call your painter and see if he has some, If you choose to use a D/A and pad stay away from your edges as the pad tends to wrap over the edge and expose metal as it is very thin there. I use Norton soft touch super fine pads for my edges, they are good for getting into tight areas. I wouldn't paint basecoat over 320 dry, 400 dry would be ok because you are putting down a white base first. 400 dry = 600 wet for Solid colours, 500 dry = 800 wet for Metallic's but that's only if you are painting direct to primer.
    If you choose to go the D/A route I will give you a some more suggestion to help, If not it's all good. Good Luck and I look forward to seeing some colour on.

    Regards Andrew

  9. #9
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Looks great, all good advice above. If it were me I would dry sand everything. With the work you have in it to this point why take chances. You'll go through more sandpaper dry sanding but sandpaper is pretty cheap compared to the cost of the materials for your paint job, and you won't care about how much of a pain in the butt the dry sanding was when it's done.
    Brian

  10. #10
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Andrew, I'm glad it works for you but a DA will not touch my car. I think there's an experience level you have to have with one and I don't have it. I know sanding blocks are more work, but I feel much more comfortable with one in my hand than a DA.

    I checked the PPG Deltron DBC P-sheet and it says to go to 400-600 grit before applying basecoat. I also searched the internet and most guys say to go to 600 grit, especially on lighter metallic or pearl colors since they tend to show scratches more.

    I appreciate the feedback and I'll talk with my painter about it. I might wait to do the final sanding at his shop just prior to painting. I don't think I can really sand it at my place, load it on a trailer on a rotisserie, and expect it to be ready for paint when I get it there. I want him to help me go over it one last time before paint. He's been doing this for 40+ years and paints $1 million plus cars so I trust his advice.

    I still have to block the tailgate, hood, and fenders. I want all the exterior panels painted at the same time, but the inner fenders and the other under-hood stuff can probably be painted separately if he wants to do that.
    Last edited by chevynut; 03-31-2017 at 08:27 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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