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Thread: Nomad final prep and paint

  1. #91
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Thanks for the mirror info Bamanomad. I went by your original measurement showing the front of the mirror 4" behind the a-pillar and marked both sides. These are the mirrors I have....the passenger side is convex. Note the plastic/rubber gasket that goes around the base and shows when mounted.



    Here's one like it, but it's mounted a lot further forward than yours.
    Your repro mirrors appear design-consistent with the original mirrors on the two cars I pictured, but the mounted location on the one you pictured is VERY MUCH more forward than the original factory position. Based on my limited sample size (Nomads and Sedans), it seems that all the mirrors were mounted in the same location (on the driver's side) - Trifives were not outfitted with RH mirrors from the factory!).

    Perhaps a RH mirror with a convex surface (would widen the field) and alleviate the issue I raised in my previous post...

    I was wrong about having an NOS mirror in the box. I looked yesterday and couldn't find one. I had a box 'hand labeled' 57 NOS mirror, but once I opened it, it was clearly NOT a TriFive mirror... I don't even know how long I have had it or where I got it..

    The original mirrors on the two cars I pictured seem to have thin rubber gaskets between the mirror and door (which are deteriorated) and I seem to remember from installing an NOS one long ago that the thin gaskets were difficult to keep positioned when installing the mirror, so in that sense, the plastic 'gasket' is probably better even if not original.

  2. #92
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Did some reading on mirror position last night and it seems you have to watch out for a couple of things....one being able to see past the vent window, and the other being able to OPEN the vent window without hitting the mirror. Some guys complain there's not enough adjustability in the passenger side mirror to see the side of the car, but I think the convex one addresses that.

    I'm going to mount my driver's seat and the vent windows and see how it all works out before I start drilling.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #93
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    PS. It seems to me that the added distance in motion (from closed to open tailgate) would be accommodated in the REEL, rather than the cable length?? Do the tailgates on std wagons open all the way flat?
    I'm pretty sure that both tailgates are supposed to lay flat when opened.

    Ecklers sells two different cables


    Chevy Tailgate Cable, Nomad, 1955-1957
    Reproduction Of Original
    45-1/8" Overall Length
    2 Required Per Car


    Tailgate Support Cable, Wagon, 1955-1957
    Reproduction Of Original
    Fits All Wagons Except Nomad & Sedan Delivery
    37" Overall Length
    2 Required Per Car
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #94
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Today I finished plug welding my front seatbelt b-pillar mounts and ground down the welds. Then used my 0.8mm tip touchup gun to do a little priming. I shot the baffles and my new tweeter mounts and touched up a few other small areas inside the car with PPG DPLF and I was surprised at how well the touchup gun worked. I thought it would be too small of a tip for primer but it works very well and it can handle small quantities of material and works great in small areas.

    Over the weekend I sanded and primed the cargo floor plywood one more time with SPI black epoxy, and put it in storage until it's needed.

    I also cut some spacers out of 1" DOM to use between the body and rotisserie arms when I get to that point.

    Next I'll be installing the seals on the baffles and plug welding them in. Then working on finishing up some fiberglass work on the rear side panels......moving forward.
    Last edited by chevynut; 06-20-2017 at 09:32 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #95
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    CN? How do you plan on installing the cargo area plywood? In the factory, they apparently installed them with screws; not even sure there was any specified spacing or location...? I have a new floor in my 57, and I'd like to do something *better* in some respect... at least with specific screw placement? and I don't really like the screws poking thru the floor... Is adhesive a feasible alternative??
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 06-21-2017 at 05:35 AM.

  6. #96
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    CN? How do you plan on installing the cargo area plywood? In the factory, they apparently installed them with screws; not even sure there was any specified spacing or location...? I have a new floor in my 57, and I'd like to do something *better* in some respect... at least with specific screw placement? and I don't really like the screws poking thru the floor... Is adhesive a feasible alternative??
    Adhesive, though a viable means of attachment does spark a question. Would there ever be a need to remove the section?

  7. #97
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    CN? How do you plan on installing the cargo area plywood?
    I have a new custom cargo floor with new tubular steel bracing. I'm using 1/4-20 flat head screws to hold it down. The screws go into the bracing and don't show under the car. If I were you I'd consider screwing it in from below the car with the screw heads showing under the floor. That would look better than having the screws sticking out the bottom, imo.

    20170606_002.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #98
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    Another option to hold the plywood in place would be to layout the attachment pattern on the plywood, place it in the car and then drill through the plywood and the floor pan at the same time with a small bit (1/8" or so) so the holes in the plywood and floor pan would be registered to each other. Then remove the plywood and drill out the holes in the floor pan for nutserts, 1/4" as Lazlo used would be good, then drill out the plywood for the 1/4" fasteners and every thing will line up to re-install. The nutserts with bolts would look better underneath than plain screws sticking through the floor pan.
    Brian

  9. #99
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    What I did with my other plywood on top of my "package shelf" is use t-nuts on top and 10-32 screws from below. I also used 8-32 t-nuts to hold my rear speakers to the plywood and 1/4-20 t-nuts for my rear seat back brackets. This helps keep regular wood or sheetmetal screws from tearing out of the wood.

    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #100
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I like both those ideas better than the factory method, in fact, I'm wondering if following CN's last suggestion with Tnuts on top and screws in from the bottom would look better from the bottom, and even allow for the possibility of removing the cargo plywood (with linoleum) intact (although I cannot imagine why I might want to do that)..

    Would you fellas suggest using something between the plywood and the floor (besides adhesive). A long while ago I was thinking 30 lb tarpaper, but now maybe the 'carsinsulation' or 'dynamat' material might be better...?

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