Just joined? Please introduce yourself.
Page 12 of 38 FirstFirst ... 2101112131422 ... LastLast
Results 111 to 120 of 380

Thread: Nomad final prep and paint

  1. #111
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,826
    Well I got them installed. I found it was a TON easier when I lubed them.....I used a mixture of water and Simple Green. I started at the rocker as you did, after trimming the seal to match the angle. I installed the seal about 3-4" and pulled it down to the rocker and worked my way around. It's not that bad when you figure out how to do it, but I still wouldn't say it's "easy" to do. You have to get the inside of the seal flared out like the outside on the stock-type, which I don't think you have to do on the Woody's seals. But I like the double seal the original style provides.

    If you get the seal over the wheelhouse sheetmetal you can work the inside of the seal with your fingers and a smooth flat object. I used the handle of a pair of pliers, but I'm make sure they were covered with plastic if you're dealing with a painted car. Once you get the seal "flared" on the inside a little, you can put the tool between the seal and quarter panel and just pull it along the length of the seal to "flip" the inside lip where it belongs. It helps to lube the tool too.

    Now that I have them in I'm going to finish the blocking of the car with them installed, and I may still remove them and reinstall them after painting. I will probably use some sort of textured finish in the wheelwells and I think it would be cleaner to leave them out for applying that. Once they're installed, I'll probably run a bead of some sort of adhesive or sealer between the seal lip and the wheelhouse sheetmetal. I made a joint at the back because they don't make the seals long enough to go all the way down. So I'll probably seal that with some black RTV or something like that.

    One question. I once saw where someone said the Nomads and wagons had a brace between the wheel opening on the quarter and the wheelhouse flap. Does yours? My lower flap on the passenger side is removable to access my battery. That allows the quarter panel to move away from the seal on that side. I may have to add some sort of a brace to keep the quarter panel from moving.

    20170624_011.JPG

    20170624_006.JPG

    20170624_003.JPG

    20170624_010.JPG



    This is INSIDE the quarter panel...


    20170624_001.JPG
    Last edited by chevynut; 06-24-2017 at 10:04 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #112
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,771
    CN: Your seal looks great as installed. Was that one of the 'original type' seals that you had previously stated was 'rubber'? Is it your impression that those will need mechanical retention to stay in place (adhesive or screws or staples??)...??

    Yes, my '56 Nomad has a brace that runs from the rear of the wheelwell back towards the inner splash. I will get a photo for you..

    Edit: actually two photos: 1st is from the LR of the 56 Nomad. 2nd is from the RR of the 57 Nomad.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 06-24-2017 at 12:28 PM.

  3. #113
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,826
    Thanks BN....Yes I used the Danchuk stock-type seals. I think they turned out good.

    My car didn't seem to have any braces back there, but there's a lot of stuff I forgot about in the decades I've owned it . Was that brace only on wagons and Nomads or did sedans and hardtops have it too? Seems like all of them would need it.
    Also, I wonder why they didn't just use a short brace and attach it to the wheelwell flap near the quarter panel instead of on the opposite side up so high.

    I think I may plug weld a small tab onto the quarter panel lip to bolt a brace to instead of running a bolt through it like they did stock. I'd rather not have a bolt head sticking out like that. Just another damned thing to do.
    Last edited by chevynut; 06-24-2017 at 03:49 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #114
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,826
    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Is it your impression that those will need mechanical retention to stay in place (adhesive or screws or staples??)...??
    Personally I don't think the seal is going anywhere because it's "balanced" across the wheelhouse and it would have to twist to come out. I think GM stapled them because they installed them before the quarter panels were installed. After final installation I'll probably use some urethane caulk between the seal and the wheelhouse, and maybe a small bead between the seal and quarter panel just to make it leakproof. I really don't think anything is needed, though.

    I personally like the stock design a lot better than the Woody's design seals. Just make sure the lip on the inside is turned correctly if you use them. Oh yeah....I used two sets of seals, and didn't use the flat one that comes in the set. Danchuk should sell these extra long as an option.
    Last edited by chevynut; 06-25-2017 at 08:17 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #115
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012

    Member #:516
    Location
    Antioch, Ca
    Posts
    653
    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    The bulb seal material arrived and I attached it to the baffles. This seal has a larger bulb than what Robert used, I think, and it's pretty much fully compressed inside the quarter. I think it looks pretty good for a home-made piece.

    I still have to plug weld them in but may wait until I trial fit my wheelhouse seals to do so. I don't want any problems putting them in.

    I may even use this type of bulb on the wheelhouses, and for sure on my front fender shields. I have two sets of the stock split rubber I'll try first.
    http://www.trifivechevys.com/attachm...0&d=1498255711

    Attachment 7380
    Chevynut, I see that what looks like the inside of a quarter weld is unground, do you plan on cleaning it up or is it out of site?

  6. #116
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012

    Member #:1653
    Location
    De Queen, AR
    Posts
    4,157
    That would be a waste of time. It's well hidden.

  7. #117
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,771
    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Personally I don't think the seal is going anywhere because it's "balanced" across the wheelhouse and it would have to twist to come out. I think GM stapled them because they installed them before the quarter panels were installed. After final installation I'll probably use some urethane caulk between the seal and the wheelhouse, and maybe a small bead between the seal and quarter panel just to make it leakproof. I really don't think anything is needed, though.

    I personally like the stock design a lot better than the Woody's design seals. Just make sure the lip on the inside is turned correctly if you use them. Oh yeah....I used two sets of seals, and didn't use the flat one that comes in the set. Danchuk should sell these extra long as an option.
    CN: I appreciate your comments and I think I agree re making the seals longer... Wonder if making that suggestion to Danchuk would make a difference?

  8. #118
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    Posts
    4,671
    As I said in those old linked posts, the seals I got from H&H are relatively soft and were easy for me to install on my car. If the gap was smaller they might be more difficult. As I posted back then, I was able to install them with my fingers, no tools. Mine don't "push" on the quarter panel.

    It would be "nice" if they made a "long" seal like the front part for modified cars, so you wouldn't have a joint or discontinuity when using two sets and deleting the original flat seal for the rear 1/3. But I'll bet there would be no cost savings, and I don't see a big deal with the fact that it's not one piece.

    I also don't think that adhesive is needed to "seal" either the outside or inside. The adhesive I'll use on the inside is just to make sure it will stay there. But there's little risk.

    And for the record, in my world "quarter panel" = "fender", at least on a 50s or later car.

  9. #119
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,826
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    It would be "nice" if they made a "long" seal like the front part for modified cars, so you wouldn't have a joint or discontinuity when using two sets and deleting the original flat seal for the rear 1/3. But I'll bet there would be no cost savings, and I don't see a big deal with the fact that it's not one piece.
    Of course there would be a cost savings. You get two of the split seals and two of the flat seals in one set, so you have to buy TWO sets which doubles the cost. If they made the split seals 18" longer they could eliminate the flat seals and you'd only have to buy one set. I don't see how it couldn't be cheaper, at least for them. I have one whole split seal left and 4 flat ones.

    I also don't think that adhesive is needed to "seal" either the outside or inside. The adhesive I'll use on the inside is just to make sure it will stay there. But there's little risk.
    Probably not needed but doesn't hurt either, imo. My car won't see much driving in water.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #120
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,826
    I'm trying to figure out how much more work to do on my car myself before I take it to Matt, my painter. I am still working on a few interior things and will be meeting with Larry my interior guy tomorrow to finalize the tan leather perforation pattern and the charcoal leather order. After the interior stuff I want to do is done I need to get the car ready for paint. I have the rotisserie ready for the body.

    I'm paying Matt by the hour to do as much or as little as I want him to do. I originally only asked him to shoot the exterior paint and clear it, but there's more than that to do. He's seen the car and ran his hands up an down it and said it looked really good over two years ago . I'm done priming and sanding the roof until it gets to his shop where I'll hit it one last time. I still have a little priming and blocking to do on the rest of the body, doors, fenders, hood, and tailgate to make sure they're all ready, but they're really close.

    One question is what I do inside the car, and whether I have him finish all the under-hood sheetmetal or paint it myself. The radiator support is done (painted with the frame) but the covers need to be painted on both sides. I'm still considering painting the entire interior of the car, which I likely will do myself. I'm thinking of checking if I can have a single-stage paint mixed to get fairly close match to my exterior color....it can be a less expensive paint. I know it'll mostly be covered, but even new cars are painted inside and out so it seems like the right thing to do.

    Also, I'm pretty sure I'm going with some sort of textured finish in the front and rear wheelwells, painted car color. I see lots of high end car builders doing this but I'm not sure what to use or whether I should do that myself. The upper dash is leather so Larry said I can leave that epoxy primed but the lower dash is going to be charcoal so I may just paint it all charcoal....with the ashtray and glove box door. That's something I could do myself too, but I'm not sure it's worth it. It seems like it might take my painter several hours to mask everything, shoot the dash, let it dry, then mask the dash to get ready to shoot everything else. I'll probably help him with all of it anyhow.

    The bottom of the car is currently planned to be car color (orange) with a matte clear. That may extend up the firewall to the hood seal unless I change my mind about it . I go back and forth on whether the inner fenders would look better orange or charcoal in the engine bay and whether matte or gloss clear. The air intake will be orange with gloss clear since it will flow into the upper intake.

    So the things I am going back and forth on is whether I should finish all those areas myself before the car goes to my painter? I probably need to ask Matt, but opinions are welcome.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

Page 12 of 38 FirstFirst ... 2101112131422 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •