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Thread: Nomad final prep and paint

  1. #41
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    You might need to add air shocks to hold all the extra building material you're hauling around.

  2. #42
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    You might need to add air shocks to hold all the extra building material you're hauling around.
    Fishing again?

  3. #43
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I think your allowing fuel pump access is a great idea, CN... I assume you're planning to put carpet over the cargo area? not glued down so you can 'lift it up' if necessary??

  4. #44
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    I assume you're planning to put carpet over the cargo area? not glued down so you can 'lift it up' if necessary??
    It's a pretty thin Mercedes wool carpet and I think I'm going to ask my interior guy to Velcro it down so it comes up easily for access. That is unless I make some custom curved stainless pieces on the sides like Madmooks makes to hold it down. I plan to put a piece of stainless trim on the very back edge that covers the edge of the plywood. I may never have to get into it, but it's nice to know I can now.

    Nick, don't bother with the troll.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  5. #45
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    It's a pretty thin Mercedes wool carpet and I think I'm going to ask my interior guy to Velcro it down so it comes up easily for access. That is unless I make some custom curved stainless pieces on the sides like Madmooks makes to hold it down. I plan to put a piece of stainless trim on the very back edge that covers the edge of the plywood. I may never have to get into it, but it's nice to know I can now. ...
    Mike's reproduction stainless kit for Nomads is 'beyond excellent' (I've bought two sets already and probably will for the other Nomads as well).. but aren't you going to use it all to trim out the cargo area?? Or do you plan to only use the front and rear stainless pieces and velco down the sides??

  6. #46
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Mike's reproduction stainless kit for Nomads is 'beyond excellent' (I've bought two sets already and probably will for the other Nomads as well).. but aren't you going to use it all to trim out the cargo area?? Or do you plan to only use the front and rear stainless pieces and velco down the sides??
    None of Mike's cargo floor stainless pieces would fit my Nomad. I eliminated the spare tire well, and the tubs are 4" wider than stock. I didn't have to go that wide to fit the 345 tires, and if I had it to do over again I wouldn't. I didn't really think about all the implications in the interior. I could have gotten by with about 2.5" wider tubs but I just made the tubs a little wider than the narrowed frame.

    But the pieces Mike makes still wouldn't have fit. They would have to be curved on the sides as you can see in the pics. I might make some custom ones, or I might just butt up the carpet to the tubs with a leather edge sewn onto it. I'll decide when the interior is getting done.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #47
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    wood or not, the back end of your wagon is as well thought out as the front end.
    Was just curious as to your methods and materials.

    The fuel pump access door is a must. Otherwise, you have to to drop the tank any time you have any issues. Good workmanship with your solution.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  8. #48
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I guess this can be considered "final prep" lol but it should have been in a bodywork thread long ago. I've been trying to epoxy prime the interior of my car for the last time to address all the welding I've done and decided I needed to address a project I've been putting off for a long time. When I replaced my quarters I removed the small baffles between the inner and outer quarters. On a Nomad, there's a 2" hole through them so I wondered what they really accomplished and didn't make new ones when I replaced the quarters. Later, I decided I probably should have. This is what the stock ones look like:

    20070513_629.JPG

    I was worried about being able to install them with the quarters on and it's pretty tricky to do. The first thing I did is make a rough aluminum pattern that I tried to install from the back of the car, but it wouldn't go in due to the formed depressions in the wheelhouse. I attached a long rod to help me reach the pattern into the right area since it was right in the middle of the wheelhouse and I was able to get it in from the front using the rod.

    20170614_001.JPG

    I kept sanding the pattern down until I got the shape I needed to fit into the cavity. Once there, I determined the right angles and details to make the final part. This pattern then gave me a rough idea of what the final part should look like.

    I used some 18 gauge steel and bent two flanges on each part for plug welding. Again, I attached the rod to the parts and sanded them until they fit the way I wanted to. Then I drilled some plug weld holes Borrowing Robert's idea of using the bulb seals, I trimmed them after marking a fixed distance from the inside of the quarter panels to get the curvature right. I used a sharpie with spacers left over from a prior project on it to roll along the inside surface of the quarter.

    20170614_002.JPG



    The holes on the stock part are 2" but I really don't know if they need to be that large. I may put a grommet and a slit rubber seal on them to help seal the area better and prevent rattles from the cables. I cut some 1 1/4" holes in the parts until I figure out the final size.

    20170614_003.JPG

    Also whipped out a couple of new covers for the cable access hole.

    20170614_001 (1).JPG
    Last edited by chevynut; 06-14-2017 at 11:58 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    The holes on the stock part are 2" but I really don't know if they need to be that large. I may put a grommet and a slit rubber seal on them to help seal the area better and prevent rattles from the cables. I cut some 1 1/4" holes in the parts until I figure out the final size.

    20170614_003.JPG
    I could be mistaken, and I did look to see if I had pictures of it, but I think there was originally a grommet in that hole.

  10. #50
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I've been cleaning up and straightening all of my interior access covers and made a couple of replacements too. I've always wondered....what are the tabs on these for?

    20170614_001 (2).JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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