I'm in the camp that votes to paint the interior with single stage that matches the exterior color, and paint the lower half of the dash yourself. I would paint the dash first, cover it, and then shoot the interior with the single stage. That's what I plan to do on my car, but then again, I AM the painter for my car.
Thanks for the feedback on painting, Bitchin57. I'm going to see if I can get the paint in single stage urethane. I talked to my interior guy today and he says to use body schutz in the wheelwells to protect them. I see 3M has a product for that. I'm not sure how it's different than tinted bedliner.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I used 3M Body Shutz a number of years back on an '86 Silverado to line the inner fenders. It seemed to behave more like a non-hardening, "tar" like coating (I believe it is still rubber/asphalt based?). It did harden quite a bit, but when something became lodged and dragged over the surface, the result looked like "streaks" as opposed to scratching and scoring. Sometimes the area was slightly tacky where it had rubbed the coating off. This was about a month after it was sprayed. I recall it was labeled as "non-paintable" and lived up to that name -- we tried painting over a sample to see what happened and it interacted negatively with the paint and had trouble curing / discolored the paint. That was nearly 10 years ago, so I'm not sure how much formulas have changed since then.
I'm with Bitchin' on a single stage interior -- although, possibly for different reasons. I've been in so many cars with a high gloss b/c dash and interior that the damned things just blind me in the light. I like the balance that the single stage gives when cut and buff -- still good shine, but without the high gloss.
I try to use Plasti-dip for a lot of different stuff. It's cheap, easy, tough, endless colors, and easily peeled off if needed. Will stick to almost anything clean, even chrome. I would hate to try and remove bed liner, or anything similar for a repair, or mod.
[QUOTE=SonicRaT;39574]I used 3M Body Shutz a number of years back on an '86 Silverado to line the inner fenders. It seemed to behave more like a non-hardening, "tar" like coating (I believe it is still rubber/asphalt based?). It did harden quite a bit, but when something became lodged and dragged over the surface, the result looked like "streaks" as opposed to scratching and scoring. ['quote]
Looks like it's still rubber and asphalt. Not using that crap.
Material Natural Rubber, Asphalt
http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-u...3241345&rt=rud
What are all the top builders using? I know Troy Trepanier uses some textured coating under some of his cars. It needs to be either tintable or suitable for painting over with BC/CC. Seems like a tintable urethane bed liner would save a lot of work. I don't want it rough like some of the bedliners I've seen (LineX), just some texture to it. Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) used to make some bedliners but they don't sell it anymore.
This looks good to me:
My upper dash will be padded charcoal leather, and Larry wants to cover the beltline moldings in charcoal leather too. If I end up painting them they will probably be BC/CC with matte clear or PPG DBI. The lower dash will be charcoal BC/CC and the top of the console will likely be painted orange or charcoal with gloss clear.I've been in so many cars with a high gloss b/c dash and interior that the damned things just blind me in the light. I like the balance that the single stage gives when cut and buff -- still good shine, but without the high gloss.
The "interior" I'm talking about painting with single stage is the underside of the roof, inside firewall, inner quarters, interior floor pans and cargo floor. Everything outside the car and under the hood will be BC/CC.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
TCPGlobal sells this "Custom Coat" 2K Urethane tintable clear bedliner that looks like it's Raptor Liner by UPOL.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/CUS-KIT-TBL...Q#.WVSEKVGQzyE
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Raptor-Ti...sem#about-item
The descriptions are identical but TCPGlobal has a better price.
SEM has a tintable bed liner too.
http://www.repaintsupply.com/sem-422...ner-p1195.html
I don't want to buy enough to do a whole truck bed so these smaller kits make sense to me.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
You can find Raptor tintablekits available for around $100 via ebay (shipped to you).. black is less $$... They also sell smaller kits (1 liter)..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/U-POL-UP4802...1%26rkt%3D1%26
Last edited by BamaNomad; 06-29-2017 at 06:50 AM.
This is a DIY 2 part product called Monstaliner. It's available in 39 colors. I used it on my last Jeep project. I plan to use it on the underside and wheel wells of my '57. The more you reduce it, the finer the texture. It's sprayed with a schutz gun. http://www.monstaliner.com/
Last edited by Bitchin'57; 06-29-2017 at 06:19 AM.
My guess, any texture will hold grime from the road better than a smooth surface. More cleaning for your shown cars, if you drive them. JMHO.