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Thread: Nomad final prep and paint

  1. #221
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    I'd go with glazing putty on the low spot, then some K36. As you are try to level the area, don't use 320, go back to 180 until it blocks straight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    I'd go with glazing putty on the low spot, then some K36. As you are try to level the area, don't use 320, go back to 180 until it blocks straight.
    I agree 100%. I've had pros tell me that you will block out a panel straighter and faster with a coarser grit, probably because you don't have to lean on the board to make it cut. Also, change out the paper as soon as it feels its not cutting as well as it did when it was fresh.
    Dave, from the old neighborhood in Jersey!

  3. #223
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    How low is the low spot? Some of the roof blocking we did recently had lows that were bumped up until they blocked out. It was hands down much quicker than mixing anything else to fill and sand, but I suppose the depth of your low spot will be a determining factor here.
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  4. #224
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I don't know how I missed the last replies to this thread. Thanks for the comments.

    I've been working on some more sanding lately and have the doors blocked with guidecoat. They blocked out nice all the way to the bottom, but I cut into Slicksand a few places. Matt told me I had to have any polyester fillers covered before basecoat (we're not using sealer), so both of the doors will need one more coat of K36. That should make them really flat once I final sand with 400. Matt says I don't have to go past 400 grit.

    I haven't done any more work on the low spot on the passenger fender but it's essentially gone after I hammered it and blocked it. There's just some very slight waviness near that area that you can't see unless you're at a very low angle. I know I need to get it out. Once I shoot another coat of K36 I'll block it with some new 320 and see where I am. K36 blocks really nice with little pressure. If it still won't come out I'll drop to a coarser grit. I'm confident I can get it flat.

    I also blocked the front splash pan and it just needs one more coat of K36 too. I did some minor filling on the sides below the fender extension to make it smoother than it was from the factory. Most of it is covered up and not very visible anyhow so it doesn't need to be perfect.

    Matt gave me a list of materials I'll need to finish the paint work so I need to get that on order. I already spent about $2500 on paint materials and need to spend about that much more.

    Also, Matt said I should shoot the bedliner on before paint so I need to do that. He says you end up with rough edges and they're easier to sand out before paint.

    I have 4 pints of tintable Raptor Liner but I'm beginning to think that may not be enough, though I've never shot any before. He said I should put bedliner on the inside of the front fenders, in the rear wheelwells, inside the rear quarter panel area behind the wheelwells and around the taillight area, and I have a front fender shield that I'll spray on the bottom side. He thinks I should do the inner fenders in paint on both sides.

    I want a slight, fairly smooth, texture so I guess I need to experiment with adding reducer to the bedliner to see how it works.
    Last edited by chevynut; 05-03-2018 at 04:34 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  5. #225
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    The guys at SPI are big fans of using a sealer before base coat. They are totally convinced that there will be fewer chips when using a sealer coat. One coat of reduced epoxy just before base, will go on smooth and offer a chemical bond. Just food for thought.

  6. #226
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LEE T View Post
    The guys at SPI are big fans of using a sealer before base coat. They are totally convinced that there will be fewer chips when using a sealer coat. One coat of reduced epoxy just before base, will go on smooth and offer a chemical bond. Just food for thought.
    Thanks Lee, my painter and I discussed this at length. I'm not using SPI epoxy on the Nomad's exterior. I wish I had, but I used PPG all the way up from metal except for the Slicksand. I want a white coat under the orange base to make it pop more. We talked about white sealer, but Matt said it would be a lot more work because he insists that the sealer is sanded smooth. He said it will have a very slight orange peel in places that must be wet sanded after curing. And if I use white DPLF it sands like crap. So we decided to use white base under the orange base. I did some reading and I read that sealer is usually only used to get an even color under the base. However, using the white base I have to go over K36 only, not polyester.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #227
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    Don't block that low spot with 320, use something coarser like 180/220, then 320/400. 320 just doesn't cut enough to use for blocking.

  8. #228
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Got the masking done for spraying the bedliner. I'm going to try it out this coming week and see how it goes.

    20180506_001.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #229
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Trying to figure out how to deal with holes in the outer sheetmetal when spraying bedliner in the wheelwells. I'm talking about the trim holes in the quarters and the V8 emblems below the taillights, among others. If I cover them from the outside with tape, the bedliner will have something to cling to and might plug the holes. If I leave them open, I think the bedliner might make it to the outside of the body. Also have to figure out what to do with the taillights since I'd like the backside of the sheetmetal covered with bedliner but the outside painted. Any advice from experience?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Trying to figure out how to deal with holes in the outer sheetmetal when spraying bedliner in the wheelwells. I'm talking about the trim holes in the quarters and the V8 emblems below the taillights, among others. If I cover them from the outside with tape, the bedliner will have something to cling to and might plug the holes. If I leave them open, I think the bedliner might make it to the outside of the body. Also have to figure out what to do with the taillights since I'd like the backside of the sheetmetal covered with bedliner but the outside painted. Any advice from experience?
    Go ahead and use masking tape on the outside. When you pull off the tape, the bedliner in the hole will come off with it. Been there, done that. For holes around 3/8" diameter, you can plug them with foam ear plugs.
    Dave, from the old neighborhood in Jersey!

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