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Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #101
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    Looking good, Gary. Keep trucking!

  2. #102
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Dang, you guys in the east are "gettin' it done". Looking good Bama.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  3. #103
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Looks great Gary! I like that Holley accessory drive. What is left before you can bolt the body down permanently?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #104
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    Looking good man... Thats a nice and tidy LS install, I'm digging the silver covers and silver engine.

  5. #105
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!

    Wagoncrazy: TriFive Richard is a good influence on me; my shop is in my backyard, but Richard has a 'complex' that he goes to each day a few miles from his home. He treats it like a 7 day work week (6-10 hrs a day). I've been to his shop three days this week assisting, and when I need help he comes to my shop, but his 'work ethic' on his hobby cars has been a great influence.. *We also worked a bit today at his shop fabricating a 'test' muffler hanger! for me* I checked that tonight when I got home and marked up a couple more pieces of angle to fabricate the remaining pieces the next time we get together.

    Chevynut: The only things I *think* I need to finish before body mount (permanent) is to complete the exhaust hangers, and I need to wire up the gas tank electricals (pump and sending unit) to a connector that I can get to and connect to when I do the body wiring. I'm very anxious to begin the 'normal' '57 tasks (insulation, dash, trim, glass, etc) which I'm more familiar with than doing 'custom chassis' work, although I'm sure I'll be requesting some Richard assistance when I do the body wiring (he's an expert wiring guy) and glass installs (two man tasks)...

    Safari: I was looking for some 'contrast' between the engine/mechanicals and the bodywork. The entire body is painted RED everywhere.. top bottom in and out, and I thought the silver-aluminum mechanicals would provide the contrast I was looking for. Oh.. the coil covers with the 'valve cover' appearance was what I ended up with to look 'old school' after I gave up on pulling the LS1 plenum and replacing it with an aluminum manifold (with the air meter on top) and customized to accommodate an 'old school air cleaner' on top (A friend here has done a couple like that and I really like the appearance better than the 'LS' appearance.
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 07-26-2018 at 08:37 PM.

  6. #106
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Since getting home from the TriFive Nats late Sunday and helping Richard unload his '56 HT from the borrowed trailer and returning the trailer, I've been working on my '57 Nomad... trying to get everything completed on the chassis that is necessary prior to mounting the body! Richard was over here Tuesday assisting and 'demonstrating' proper use of the Weatherpak connectors! Incidentally, Richard's '56 HT had a featured location at the Nats, decorating the front of the Wilwood trailer booth space! There were some beautiful cars presented in the Vendor areas, and Richard's car was one of them!

    o Finished up the mounting and support of the stainless exhaust system. THANKS to Mikey for his
    suggestion to use U bolts/air impact to clamp the tubes to muffler before using the stainless band clamps! That seems to have worked!


    o Wired up a short 3' harness to the fuel tank for the pump and sender connections, out to a weatherpak connector so I could disconnect the lines if I ever had to drop the tank! I had a drain installed in the tank so hopefully I NEVER have to drop it! Note: my son in law suggested we actually power up and check the fuel connections for leaks before mounting the body, so Ricahrd and I did that Tuesday. Turns out I didn't use any sealer on the pipe threaded connections into the tank and they did leak! After correcting that, we got 55 psi up to the injector rails with no leaks! (After 2 days sitting there, it still has 38 psi at that gauge!

    o Checked my '55 Nomad for the exact location of the rear wiring hole/grommet, measured the size (1" dia) and location (3/4" from inner fender, and 3.4" from rear cargo dropoff) and duplicated that hole in the replacement cargo pan of the '57 Nomad and installed a grommet so it's ready for the rear lighting wiring.

    o Also drilled a 3/4" hole for a grommet to accommodate the fuel tank harness. I drilled this hole in the vertical panel under the rear seat in a location that should not interfere with anything else.

    o Also in the last couple of weeks prior to the Nats, I got back the modified LS1/4L60E harness from a local friend who modified it for my car (and did a nice job!~ Thanks Jonathan) and have it mostly installed/connected.

    o Lowered the body onto the chassis mounts, but thus far I'm not happy with the gaps... I'm suspecting that the person who installed the new floor pan did NOT mount it to a chassis prior to welding the floor pan to the body. I've got 1/4" gaps to fill at several locations! The primary cause is that the 4 central mounts are too high; I considered using a thinner (1/4") rubber isolator at those locations but I'm not sure about that one!

    Question: Do you fellas think shimming mount locations as much as 1/4" will cause me problems ...? like for bumper alignments or ?? I've always had tight clearances when I did this before, but this is my first 'custom chassis' and first time with a 'replacement floor pan'...
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 08-16-2018 at 08:37 AM.

  7. #107
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    Wow, beautiful!

  8. #108
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Question: Do you fellas think shimming mount locations as much as 1/4" will cause me problems ...? like for bumper alignments or ?? I've always had tight clearances when I did this before, but this is my first 'custom chassis' and first time with a 'replacement floor pan'...
    They were assembled by Chevrolet using these...so I don't see why there would be an issue shimming.
    body shim.jpeg

    But you will probably want to know what your door gaps are before final shimming. That seems to be one of the important variables for getting door gaps set correctly.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  9. #109
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reminder about the door gaps, Paul, but my doors are hung and gaps are OK, and the nomad body is pretty rigid. I'm mostly concerned about NOT causing problems when I cinch it down. I've done several 'stock' body/floors onto stock chassis before and never had more than 1/8" to shim, and that's why I'm concerned over this one. I can shim up the gaps before I tighten up the mounts without causing a door problem (I'm pretty sure), but if this ends up in *raising the body* 1/4" more than factory, I'm trying to think what kinds of problems this might cause.

    PS. Trifive Richard and I made some 1/4" thick shims from aluminum if I end up having to do this much shimming...

  10. #110
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Lowered the body onto the chassis mounts, but thus far I'm not happy with the gaps... I'm suspecting that the person who installed the new floor pan did NOT mount it to a chassis prior to welding the floor pan to the body.


    Or the body mounts on the frame aren't properly located. It wouldn't be hard to measure them to find out.



    Question: Do you fellas think shimming mount locations as much as 1/4" will cause me problems ...? like for bumper alignments or ?? I've always had tight clearances when I did this before, but this is my first 'custom chassis' and first time with a 'replacement floor pan'...


    Shimming shouldn't cause any problems. If it was me I'd make some custom shims or use large washers like the ones on the body mounts. GM used some large square shims at the body mount locations. But you really need to shim to make sure your door gaps are good, and/or adjust them afterward. I'd consider cranking down at least some of the body mounts first with the doors open and see where things end up.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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