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Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #231
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    I talked to him a few times also, the last I heard he sold everything and was in some country doing missionary work or something like that. He was really bummed over the way CCCI made so much money on his book, and only paid him wages, that's why he did the second book himself, but there was a difference in the quality of pictures and the book in general. Originally even loose leaf.

    On the props, I like to use them when doing something that I want to come out very good, its just hard to do that with them hanging on a wire, even when using another wire to hold it steady. No I didn't add extra clear on the last coat, although it is a good idea on the exterior for more uv protection.

  2. #232
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I noticed (and LIKED) your props used to paint your parts. *Some* (but not all) of the problems I had this week spraying the base/clear for the first time was due to the part not being stable (I did use a handheld wire to hold some of them - or tried to); my biggest problem was my visibility of the 'flow' when spraying (which I just can't see any more).

  3. #233
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Well I purchased an inexpensive little one hand air driven sander/polisher this week with 1, 2, and 3" pads for sanding and for polishing. The inexpensive 'nature' of it came into play a couple of times when it would just 'stop working' for a bit.. but after giving it a rest and 'playing' with the air speed adjustment, it would again begin working. I spent a day or two trying it on my newly painted small parts with some Strata machine cutting compound, and some polishes in trying to see if my parts were 'salvageable'. Results are mixed so far...

    I tried sanding out some of the worst runs in a couple of parts, and after trying 1000 grit paper without much good h happening, I went to 600 grit and ended up going thru the paint a couple of places.

    QUESTION: Most of these parts have so many tight curves is it a mistake on my part to TRY to sand out runs with 600 paper? I noticed with 1000 the cutting is so much slower I'm guessing that's the safe way to do it... On a couple of parts I sanded with the 1000, then 1500, and then 2000 and then the machine rubbing compound and those are coming out halfway OK... Any suggestions you guys that do this all the time can make for me, I'd really appreciate.

    The parts I sanded thru on happened on the 2nd day AFTER painting. is that TOO SOON ? I have noticed that I haven't sanded thru since waiting another day and using the 1000 as my most coarse paper (and wet sanding). I've decided that any of these parts I have to repaint, will be repainted using single stage! I really am encountering problems I've never had before with these base/clear parts and I know it's a problem when one goes thru just the clear coat, and it seems with the 'two layers' of paint that it's easier to sand thru them as they are each more thin coats?

    Lee: Re your special stands you made for painting your small parts. Did you make those stands for ALL of the small parts from your cars? I had over 30 parts to paint (and that's not all of them), and I had several issues regarding coverage and/or runs because of trying to paint them hanging. Again, any tips you can provide, I'd really appreciate..

  4. #234
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    Cool

    Gary, I only made those props for parts I wanted to come out extra good. The garnish moldings lay on a wood 2x2 that is bolted to the stands, and there are others made of foam, it just eliminates a lot of these uneven application problems, but I do use the wire hooks also.

    You need to put all the painted parts out in the sun for a day. One day in the sun is equal to 7 days in the shop normally, but the sun is intense now. The best thing to do with runs is to just open the run with sand paper, then put it in the sun. The problem is that you sand it flat before it cures, then a couple of months later its low where the run was. Some guys like to wait a couple months before touching fresh paint for show quality results. After cure, you can cover the run with two inch masking tape then sand it. I also use nib files, but its easy to gouge with them until you learn how to use them, but festool makes a scraper that I like most of all.


    Two coats is really not enough to cut and buff, and still leave enough for uv protection--if you don't sand through--but that is not such a big deal on interior parts. To cut and buff you need three or four coats.

    The best thing to do with the interior moldings with all the tight turns and what not, even the straight ones, is to spray them so they don't need to be sanded.
    Last edited by LEE T; 07-10-2020 at 07:13 AM.

  5. #235
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Lee, That festool appears to be a neat little gadget (and I could use one).. O'Reilly's has them for $110... By weight that comes out to about $2000/lb...

  6. #236
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    I looked on line and found three vendors that have it for $76, and that gets it down to a very reasonable $1400/lb. Toolnuts website says he will ship it free, if your total order is over $100.

  7. #237
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    Toolnut also has 10 reviews on it, 9 out of 10 gave it 5 stars.
    https://www.toolnut.com/festool-4975...r-scraper.html

  8. #238
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    That's probably worthwhile simply in terms of saved time in removing runs and sags...

  9. #239
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I ordered one of those Festool 497525 tools today Lee... $76 plus tax; free ground shipping. I'll let you know how quickly I get it from NY...
    Thanks for letting me know about that tool!

  10. #240
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    I'll admit thats still expensive for what it is--pound for pound, but I like it better than anything else. Hope it works for you, but stop making so many runs. Try spraying faster with more passes, if it was larger panels I would say more overlap. You can get your 1mil per coat that way by building up to it.

    Can't say enough about the props, you might be able to make them quicker than getting rid of the runs. A lot of mine are just a way to raise the part a little so I can lay it out on a table, just needs to be high enough so you can get to the edges. Some are formed with foam and covered with paper.

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