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Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #201
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I've been waiting on my window trim stainless and some chrome to come back from the polisher/plater, so I haven't done any significant work on my project lately (just piddling mostly), but today a Nomad buddy from up in Tennessee visited me and we talked over lots of stuff on my car and his. He asked me what AC outlets I was using... and after some discussion and checking, I learned something I didn't know previously.

    When I bought a nice used pair of factory '57 AC outlets many years ago, I suppose I only looked at the front chrome and if they were 'complete and functional', but didn't pay enough attention. I had always thought the hoses to connect them would be the same size! But today I found out I was wrong... One of them has a 3" OD hose connection on the back side, while the other has a 2.5" OD hose connection! Presumably this was because of the different length of hose necessary to connect them to the stock evaporator! How many of you knew this?
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  2. #202
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    I knew that once upon a time, then promptly forgot! LOL

  3. #203
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Rick! I'm with you on that! There's mucho stuff I once knew, but have forgotten! (and more everyday!)..

    Do any of you know if the reproductions also have the different hose port diameters as the originals? or are they made the same? OK.. forget this question as I just checked and found out they match the originals!
    s-l1600.jpg

    PS. When I cut the holes in my ash do I drill both holes in my dash with the same hole saw (3.5"?)...
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 02-20-2020 at 07:21 AM.

  4. #204
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    The 57 reproductions that look like true originals have the same big/little diameter for the hose as the originals do.

    Note that the 55-56 a/c vents have the same 2-1/2" diameter hose barb on both parts.

  5. #205
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    I installed 57 original ac vents with vintage air last year .. It's no problem with the 2 different sizes, I put the hose on the outside of the passenger vent & it fits inside on the drivers side vent. I drilled a 3-1/8" hole on both sides. Drill the 1/4" center hole first then I drilled the 3-1/8" hole holding the drill level. This will give you the oblong hole you need for the vents to fit.

  6. #206
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I bought a 3.5" hole saw months ago (nearly a year) but haven't yet got my nerve up to drilling the already painted dash for the factory stock ac outlets!!
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 03-08-2020 at 07:18 PM.

  7. #207
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Over the past year or so I've been slowly working a task for attaching the wood to the cargo bed which would allow me to *remove* it with the linoleum attached and intact, should it ever be necessary.

    Over the past few days, I finished all the prep tasks for attaching my cargo area wood to the floor which will allow removal (if it were ever necessary) with the linoleum intact. I drilled thru the wood and metal floor for installation of pronged 1/4-20 T nuts from the top (which will be under the linoleum) and will use 1/4-20 SS button head screws and washer under the floor for retention.

    1) I cut 19/32" thick plywood per the diagram I'd previously provided. I cut it maybe 1/8" larger to allow myself to 'trim to exact size' at the appropriate time. note: If you have an original floor, there is a 'raised' area in the metal which will require you to route out the corresponding area in the wood, and also I used a grinder to 'dish out' the space corresponding to the grommet hole without removing very much of the wood at the 'top surface'.
    2) I sealed/treated/stained the wood several times over a few months while I was planning the installation. Prior to finalizing the size, to ensure the size was exact for fitting my 'new' Madmooks stainless (and new linoleum), I went ahead and attached the stainless to the edges of the board pieces to make sure the wood was sized perfectly, and that the 'liftable cover' would fit within the allotted space when all the trim was attached. When I did this, I had to trim a small amount from several of the edges to make this all work. It's a good idea to reseal/stain the edges you have to cut again. At this point, the wood with trim attached was just lying in the cargo space. When I attached the trim to the wood, to protect the new stainless from scratches, I left mook's plastic sleeves on the trim.
    3) Once I had wood adjusted for the trim and lying in place, I made sure that the tailgate would close, and moved the wood towards the RH side to allow for approximately 3/4" of space on the driver's side and maybe 1/4" on the passenger side (to the wheel well metal). The larger space on the drivers side is to allow room for the rear wiring which will lie in that space before dipping thru the grommet near the most rear. NOTE: Be sure that you open up the wood at the location of the grommet so as to clear and lie flat on the floor.
    4) At this point, I drilled 1/8" starter holes thru the wood/metal floor and put nails thru each hole after drilling to hold the board in place thru all the hole drilling. I drilled holes for 10 locations (5 on each side). Note: be careful in selecting the locations for the holes, since you don't want to hit any critical components just below the floor, and in my installation, I had to ensure I was able to install screws from below the floor at each location! This took a lot of 'down and up' (for an old guy it hurts!)...
    5) with all the location holes drilled, I then removed the wood so I could prep the holes for the pronged stainless barrel nuts (1/4-20). The barrel required a 5/16" hole thru the wood, but before I drilled that I used a wood bit (3/4" dia) and counter sunk ~1/10" into the wood to allow room for the metal barrel nut to be flush with the wood after installation. I installed the barrel nuts and used a hammer to flush them to the wood top.
    6) I then opened up the holes thru the metal floor using a bit just slightly larger than the 1/4 screw I planned to use. see photos...

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  8. #208
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    I understand the trepidations! My dash was in the pre-paint stage when I drilled mine out and I had the worries. Slow and easy was the way, keeping from going too deep too fast, and having the hole saw catch. Thankfully the flange of the AC ducts provide some cover.

  9. #209
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    BelAir-o ?? Did you drill the holes with a 3.5" hole saw? Someone posted that they used 3-1/8" and that has me worried all over again about the 3.5"... will it be too big?.....

  10. #210
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I installed SS button head 1/4-20 screws and stainless washers from under the floor today to check the retention of my cargo floorwood. I had different lengths of screws to check and it turns out the 5/8" length was perfect for 19/32 plywood and killmat on the floor, using one flat washer under the screw. If the screws protrude past the top surface of the wood, they would be visible thru the linoleum I'm planning to use on the floor. One has to admit that the button head screws and flat washers appear lots better under the floor than a protruding self-tapping screw and no dangers of scratched up hands when working under the floor! But another reason for attaching the cargo wood this way is to allow for removal of the cargo wood (should it be necessary) without destroying the expensive original linoleum!
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    Last edited by BamaNomad; 03-09-2020 at 10:18 AM.

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