Just joined? Please introduce yourself.
Page 9 of 39 FirstFirst ... 789101119 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 90 of 385

Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #81
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015

    Member #:2442
    Location
    Custer, WI
    Posts
    640
    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Custer55, do you know offhand what your lever ratio actually is?

    Here's my Lokar e-brake pedal in place. It gets a little crowded up there with the Raingear and my brake bellcrank:

    Attachment 7088
    Was looking for something else last night and fount the original e-brake lever. From the pivot slot to the hole to the rear brakes is 1.5" and to the hole for the inside handle cable is 9". So it is a 6 to 1 ratio, so it is pretty close to the ratio of the non power brake pedal which I guess would make sense.
    Brian

  2. #82
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,774

    New wheels (17 x 8.5 + 49mm OS

    Quote Originally Posted by Custer55 View Post
    Was looking for something else last night and fount the original e-brake lever. From the pivot slot to the hole to the rear brakes is 1.5" and to the hole for the inside handle cable is 9". So it is a 6 to 1 ratio, so it is pretty close to the ratio of the non power brake pedal which I guess would make sense.
    Brian
    That's great to know the mechanical advantage provided by the original TriFive emergency brake lever and will be useful to me when I'm trying to figure mine out... Now what about the differences in 'effort' required between the original rear drum brakes and the C4 emergency brake? Do you have any idea?

    On a related subject, do you have any info (or just a feeling?) whether a 'manual brake' might work with the C4 disk brakes?? If there's any way to avoid fitting a power booster to my car, I'd like to pursue that...?

    I picked up the new wheels today - Here is a photo of one of them.. I think I am going to like them.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 05-16-2017 at 11:41 AM. Reason: to add a photo of the wheels

  3. #83
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,774
    Wow... I didn't know it had been a year since I'd updated this thread! I know I posted some other updates, but I apparently did NOT post them into this thread.

    Since this update a year ago, I did buy same size tires (245-45/17) for all corners, mounted them and went thru the body/frame fitting, which required a few 'cuts' on the body (mostly removing the stock body rear shock mounts and some trimming of the front inner fender panels, and also had to remove part of the 'Rick's tank mounting points which Billy installs on his frames as they interfered with the storage box installed in the body. As Brian had pointed out previously, placing a trifive body on a custom frame is NOT a one time operation, so I've purchased and installed a two post lift and my body/frame have been separated and joined a few dozen times since as I've tried to work out all the custom *issues* of this car...

    I also cleaned/painted the 'used' LS1 engine/4L60 trans package and reinstalled it, bought coil covers and painted them; I think I reported on all these small accomplishments in other posts (forgetting to add them to this project file!)..

    More recently I spent a LONG time figuring out what to do about the fuel tank/storage box issue, finally deciding to leave the storage box alone (I like the idea of having some hidden storage in the Nomad) and going with a smaller ~ 15 gallon custom built fuel tank. I investigated an aluminum tank using local builder, but finally decided to go stainless, looking at both Ricks, Tanks Inc, and Rock Valley Antique Auto - finally deciding on Rock Valley to build a 10"x11"x33.5" stainless tank in 14 gauge. Between my long period of 'indecision' and 6 weeks of construction time, that took MONTHS before I actually received it, then was sick with bronchitis on arrival, but finally it's all installed and with some assistance from my friend (TriFive Richard) even have mounted and connected a WIX fuel pressure reg/filter and the gas line to the engine. While doing the fuel line install to the engine, I realized that after painting the engine, I'd re-installed the fuel rail WRONG (I didn't realize it would go on either way - which explained why the coil cover I purchased didn't 'fit' very well before)... Fits much better now!
    Photos attached herein.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 06-03-2018 at 11:11 AM.

  4. #84
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,774
    I'm going to TRY to remember to use this thread from now on for my '57 Nomad updates...

    I went back and found a couple of the 'other' threads I'd begun/posted to re other issues with this project, which I'll reference here in attempt to tie it all together..

    Previous thread on my LS ‘accessory drive’ issue and the various systems I investigated...
    http://www.trifivechevys.com/showthr...5226#post45226

    I ordered the Holley 20-285 'mid mount' accessory package last week- but it won't ship until mid June.

    Previous thread on my Park Brake customization/install… I hope that mod is finished except for installing the parts which go from the body to the chassis which I won't do until the body is mounted for the *final* time..
    http://www.trifivechevys.com/showthr...4286#post44286

  5. #85
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,774
    With the tank and fuel lines installed, I've begun thinking about how to run the electrical wiring to the tank (pump power and fuel level for gauge); I'm fairly certain the wiring is run inside the body until it's close to the tank at the rear; I thought along the driver side with other rear wiring, but I cannot find a factory hole where the wiring would go thru a grommet. My car had a replacement floor installed prior to my purchase so maybe ...?

    Can anyone help with either the factory location or a 'better/improved' location to run the wires thru? Since the wiring was Fisher installed, the AIM doesn't address this... I need the location and hole size for a proper grommet...

  6. #86
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,835
    I ran my wiring inside the car around the wheel tub and out of a hole I made near the body mount that's under the rear seat up close to the cargo floor. It includes all the wiring for taillights/license light, brake lights, turn signals, backup lights, fuel gauge and fuel pump. From there it goes over the top of my fuel tank.

    I just noticed that you don't have the proper original thick spherical washers behind the front bolts on the upper a-arm shafts. They're needed to provide the proper caster, unless you use a thick stack of shims. Caster is spec'd at 6 degrees.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #87
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,774
    Today I installed the front portion of the Danchuk#851 rear wheelhouse seals while the body was raised up. I did utilize the tips provided by ChevyNut in an older thread suggesting use of simple green/water and using rubber coated plier handles to push the seal into place. I first tried using GoJo as a lubricant, but it was more difficult to get into place than the simple green which was thinner and ran into the groove... Thanks CN..
    I need to order another one of those kits to finish the rear portion of both wheelwells rather than trying to mechanically retain (with staples or screws) the flat rear portion as used by the factory.

    CN: I checked the front suspension on my chassis today and compared it to my two C4 cars. The only difference I noticed was that the chassis hasn't had the caster adjusted as yet, so probably will need more shims in the front position of the upper A arm.

  8. #88
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,835
    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    CN: I checked the front suspension on my chassis today and compared it to my two C4 cars. The only difference I noticed was that the chassis hasn't had the caster adjusted as yet, so probably will need more shims in the front position of the upper A arm.
    All the C4s from around 1986 to 1996 had thick spacers in the front of the a-arm shaft. Shims will work, or you could machine another thick spacer. My point was that to get the specified 6 degrees of caster you'll need a thick shim there. Here's what mine and all the others I've dealt with look like....

    20160215_001.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #89
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    157
    Looking good, I really like those wheels... Can't wait to see how they look with the body on.

  10. #90
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016

    Member #:3217
    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,774
    Thanks Safari... the wheels are one of the few I could find that were on the inexpensive end price wise, in a size I considered for the car, that had a decent look... I do have a photo showing the wheels with the body lowered in position (but not mounted or finished) that might give you an idea of the final look...

    ie. these are 17x8 wheels which provide me 1"+ clearance on both front and back sides, which I'm *hoping* will allow removal/change (on the road if necessary) without a great deal of effort. The clearances came out real close to that predicted by the online wheel calculator!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 06-05-2018 at 10:26 AM.

Page 9 of 39 FirstFirst ... 789101119 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •