Another Nomad project... :)

[BamaNomad]

Here's how Chuck did it after I showed him my pics. I didn't like mounting it bridging the frame and the body together, but maybe it's not a big deal. He used the same box and made the mount out of rod like I did.

Is there sufficient room under the fender for the battery in the box to swing out and down enough to get to it? I've never seen one of these in action, but I'm imagining that it must have to move OUT away from the frame before it can move down... is that correct?

[chevynut]

The box moves straight down. If you look at the picture you can see the slides. It can either re-latch in a lower position or come all the way out.

[BamaNomad]

Thanks CN... Is the box size sufficient for a choice of batteries, or does it limit you to only a single, or couple, or batteries? Is there enough room for use of a plastic battery box INSIDE the SS box??

[55 Rescue Dog]

I designed and built the mount but the box is something you can buy. You can also buy the jumper lugs. Chuck Williams (Sshamu) on the other site copied my design on his 56 Nomad with no problem. I made it out of steel rod, but it could be made differently. I added one small tab to the front end at the top and that is welded to my tub.....don't think it really needed to be there but it does reinforce it better. My lower flap comes off with DZUS fasteners to make access easier, but it may be more than you want to mess with. It may work without that too.

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The battery disconnect seems to be in an awkward spot. Do you have to lay on the ground to reach it in an emergency?

[chevynut]

Thanks CN... Is the box size sufficient for a choice of batteries, or does it limit you to only a single, or couple, or batteries? Is there enough room for use of a plastic battery box INSIDE the SS box??

Info

This dropout battery box allows you to put your battery somewhere out of the way while still maintaining access. The box normally locks in the up position or it also drops down and locks 4-1/4" lower if needed. You can also drop the box completely out for maintenance.

Accepts batteries up to 10-1/2" long, 7" wide, and 8" tall.

[BamaNomad]

RD? The battery disconnect should be as close as possible to the battery I would think? Where would you suggest the disconnect be placed which would be more convenient on a Nomad or Wagon with the battery located in that location?

[55 Rescue Dog]

RD? The battery disconnect should be as close as possible to the battery I would think? Where would you suggest the disconnect be placed which would be more convenient on a Nomad or Wagon with the battery located in that location?

I plan on putting my disconnect under, or near the drivers seat within easy reach connected to the ground cable. Another way is a latching solenoid disconnect connected to a toggle switch.

[BamaNomad]

RD said: "Another way is a latching solenoid disconnect connected to a toggle switch."

I think I like this approach better than your first idea.... but there may be some disadvantages to this approach that I haven't thought of as yet...?

[chevynut]

I think you need to decide what you want the battery cutoff switch for. If it's for emergencies, such as on a race car, it should be readily accessible by either the driver or a safety crew. If it's for theft prevention, it should be hidden. If it's just for disconnecting the battery at car shows, it can be anywhere you want it.

I see no difference between putting the disconnect in the positive wire or putting it in the negative wire. The battery doesn't know which terminal is positive or negative and it doesn't matter. And I think the switch should be as close to the battery as possible. If you run a long cable to the switch, you risk it shorting out with no way to disconnect it.

Finally, why would you use the very thing you're trying to turn off as a power source to turn it off? Once it's turned off, how do you turn it back on? If there's a hot wire running from the battery to the toggle switch, then it's not really a battery disconnect. To me, a battery disconnect has to remove all electrical power from the vehicle.

[BamaNomad]

I'm thinking seriously about that Speedway 'drop out battery box' and adding a disconnect switch probably near to it as CN did. I'm also thinking of several other things that I have questions/concerns about prior to putting the body on the new frame.
1) Connection and routing of Park Brake. Unless I come up with some reason not to, I'm leaning towards retaining the stock '57 pull handle for the emerg/park brake, running the cable down the LH side frame rails and connecting to the stock rear cables for the C4, although it would be good to have the rear RH parkbrake cable to be longer and tailorable to run to the LH side frame rail. Any help, suggestions, or issues you might know of would be appreciated.
2) Fuel line: LS1 engine, keeping it as stock as possible. Do I need to run feed/return fuel lines all the way to the engine, or incorporate a Regulator/filter on the frame rail somewhere near to the fuel tank?
3) Transmission Shifter: Using the stock 4L60E behind the LS1 (from a 2001 Z28). I'd prefer to keep the trans shifter on the column since I'm retaining the '57 bench seat. I also would *prefer* using a tilt column (IDIDIT or Flaming River or ??). Any enlightenment you guys can provide on the issues of any of this would be much appreciated!

I would like to provide mounting points for any items needing attachment to the frame prior to dropping the body on the frame...

Any/all input appreciated.