Bama, If you check out my build thread you can see how I used the stock pull lever in the car combined with Lokar cables to the rear parking brakes.
Bama, If you check out my build thread you can see how I used the stock pull lever in the car combined with Lokar cables to the rear parking brakes.
Bamanomad, I personally wouldn't futz with the stock C4 e-brake cables. I ditched mine and both cables run down the driver's side rail to the Lokar block that I put on top of the frame. The driver's side cable is straightforward and goes around the inside of the hump to the e-brake lever on the caliper. Lokar makes a clevis for that purpose. The passenger side cable runs to the same place as the driver's side on the front of the driver's side frame hump, but then goes across under the body on the almost vertical sheetmetal behind the rear seat to the passenger side where it then goes to the caliper. I mocked it up before removing the body from frame for paint and it seemed to work well that way.Originally Posted by BamaNomad
The only issue routing this way is that you don't get mechanical advantage for the hand lever like Custer55's solution does. I like the clean look of the way I did it with no cables under the frame, but if you're using the hand lever you probably need some way to increase pull force.
Last edited by chevynut; 04-14-2017 at 07:54 AM.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Brian, just about ALL my online time today was going thru about half your build thread (up to the point of your doing the hand brake).. I LOVE what you did.. basically designing/building your own version of a C4 custom frame for your '55... your work is excellent; I'm not even in the same ballpark as you and CN are re fabricating/welding!(which is why I bought a 'pre-made' chassis, and am having issues even wtih simple add ons..
I will take the time later to go thru the remainder of your build thread! WAY TO GO!!
and I like the way you did your handbrake using the stock trifive pull handle; I'd already figured I'd need some mechanical advantage similar to the original, and I see you retained that mechanical advantage (or even improved it?) with your design. I need to do something similar but try to keep the overall size of the mechanism smaller and perhaps mount it vertical along the inside of the frame rail - but I'll be able to see where I have the room once I get the body on the frame! Thanks for your note that spurred me to go look for your build thread!
Agreed CN... just about all the folks using modified rear disk brakes do the same/similar arrangement with the Lokar park brake setup, including you, Brian (Custer), and my local friend who has the AME chassis. It will probably save me more than $150 of trouble..
I also agree re the mechanical advantage needed with the stock pull handle (to wit, the way the factory did it)...
Thanks for the kind wordsBrian, just about ALL my online time today was going thru about half your build thread (up to the point of your doing the hand brake).. I LOVE what you did.. basically designing/building your own version of a C4 custom frame for your '55... your work is excellent; I'm not even in the same ballpark as you and CN are re fabricating/welding!
I will take the time later to go thru the remainder of your build thread! WAY TO GO!!
and I like the way you did your handbrake using the stock trifive pull handle; I'd already figured I'd need some mechanical advantage similar to the original, and I see you retained that mechanical advantage (or even improved it?) with your design. I need to do something similar but try to keep the overall size of the mechanism smaller and perhaps mount it vertical along the inside of the frame rail - but I'll be able to see where I have the room once I get the body on the frame! Thanks for your note that spurred me to go look for your build thread!
My brake lever I made just maintained the stock mechanical advantage ratio. The one thing I would do differently is put the mounting bracket just slightly lower because it is pretty tight to the floor pan with the body on the frame. Not to much lower though as it would get to close to the exhaust if it was much lower. I'm not sure how it would work to put the lever on the side of the frame though. You could make a shorter lever with the same ratio but you may not get enough travel to the rear cables then. I never tried to figure it out that way to see if it would work or not. Using the Lokar, or similar lever in the car is always an option too. I did mine to retain the original lever to save money and time as much as anything.
Good Luck with yours whatever you decide to do.
Brian
Brian, did you think about using a block and tackle type arrangement for mechanical advantage? Seems like it would be relatively simple with small pulleys and would negate the need for a lever.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I know a legal effective parking/E brake is required in some states with inspections and might be good to have, but I've had many cars over the years that can barely keep a car from rolling on level ground, including a C2, C3, and my current C5 Corvette. Most auto trans cars have never even had them operated. I went with a simpler effective approach for holding my car when needed with a $39 hydraulic park lock on the front brakes in addition to the rear in gear when the engine is off. I can apply 800psi of force on the front brakes, and the car is not going anywhere. The only time I have ever needed an actual emergency brake was on my 1930 Model A with mechanical brakes, when the clevis fell out of the brake pedal rod. I could have slowed down faster dragging my feet.
Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 04-14-2017 at 04:16 PM.
My friend here in town building a '56 HT on an AME chassis bought an aftermarket Camaro ('69) foot operated park brake mechanism and used that with the rear from Lokar (are you fellas did)...
I did not even think about doing it that way, but that would be another good option. Not being and engineer I figured if I just replicated the stock system lever ratio in a different location due to my frame center section it would work fine. The location I put mine also was dictated in large part by the length of the stock front cable because I didn't want to have to shorten or lengthen it. It actually works much better than the stock parking brakes ever did. When I would set it in our driveway where there is a slight incline with the stock set up the car would not stay put (probably needed some adjustment) but with the new set up with Corvette caliper parking set up it won't budge so I am happy with how it works now. For me it was a quick simple solution and at the time that is what I needed!!
Brian
That looks like a good option as well. Another reason I didn't use something like that besides the cost was my controller for my Dakota Digital dash is located just above the vent in that area and I didn't want to do anything that would require me to move that.
Brian
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