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Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #221
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    Hi Bama,
    I have been shooting PPG 2-stage, and each time I am gonna spray, I pull out my application sheets. For the PPG base, it does have a gloss finish. The base sheets say 2-3 coats or until hiding is achieved, and lists the time between coats (varies by additives); that way, one doesn't have to flood it for coverage, but lays on coats, and sneaks up on it. For the PPG clear, it is 2 wet coats, again, so one can kind of sneak up on it. But like 56ls408 said, the base is thinner, while the clear is heavier, which makes it easier to get runs.
    Good luck! Doug

  2. #222
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I went over the 30+ parts yesterday afternoon with 400 grit paper, then red and then gray scuff pads; I think (hope) it'll be ok once I get some paint on it. I took the parts over to TriFiveRichard's shop later yesterday and got them all in the dry between the showers here. This morning I've got to stop by the PPG paint store and get additional activator, and maybe a 1.4 tip (if they have one for my devilbiss guns - I've got 1.3 and 1.5 but no 1.4). that will be a 'just in case I need it' purchase, and then head back to his shop to clean, and hang the parts.. and then hopefully to get some COLOR (very Red) and some SHINE on them...

    I'll post some photos if it isn't a complete failure..

  3. #223
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I had a long day today - 6 hrs cleaning hanging and spraying around 30 parts to my car, and after getting home I spent another 3 hrs doing yardwork (mowing, weedeating, blowing off concrete)..

    My first time spraying base / clear urethane; results are mixed.. as I had 2 or 3 parts with significant runs. that'll be fun trying to get them out or repainting later- time will tell~ Can you guys recommend a good 'small buffer' (a one handed item for doing these smaller parts?)..

    I think most of the runs came on my last coat of clear... I wanted to spray out the mix and I was SO VERY HOT in my tyvek suit, 90+ F for around 3 hrs... I was hurrying.. Here are a few photos of my hanging parts after spraying. I'll pick up the parts on Wednesday probably and then try to clean up the overspray in Richard's paint booth!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 07-06-2020 at 08:19 PM.

  4. #224
    Registered Member Belair-o's Avatar
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    Hi Bama,
    Lots of work done!
    Sorry about the runs, hopefully not on the instrument cluster? Not sure how one could buff runs on that complex surface. I bought this small buffer to work on my dash and other tight areas, and have been happy with it (chose it to match one a pro had):
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Regards, Doug

  5. #225
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Thanks Belair-o... Yep I let my impatience and being HOT get to me at the end!~ I'm going to look for a 'less expensive' version of small polisher...although the one you bought looks great!

  6. #226
    Registered Member Custer55's Avatar
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    I have only used a base clear a couple of times after I did some repairs on my 2007 GMC pick up (rust and deer damage). My experience was the base was pretty easy to spray and went on smoothly. The clear was hard to get to layout smooth without getting runs in it. I would just try to sand out the runs if you can. A small fine file works to get the high spot of the runs without damaging the surrounding area, or a small sanding block. You can make a block out of wood and shape to what you need also. If your lucky you can get the runs sanded and buffed without having to re-shoot the clear. worst case you have to sand it all out and start over. What you have done looks great in the pictures.
    Keep at it, you'll get there.
    Brian

  7. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    is it even *possible* to paint a '57 Instrument Cluster Housing with modern urethane paints, get a nice glossy finish... without RUNS??
    Sorry I'm late to the party, but yes it is possible. I prefer to use single stage for this, and this is as it came out of the gun, no runs, no orange peel. I did sand and buff the rest of the dash though. Red doesn't seem to be screen friendly, at least on my screen.




  8. #228
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    That looks great Lee... I've always *preferred* single stage also - mostly because it can look more like lacquer (when properly sanded/buffed/polished) but this car body was painted base clear (two stage) and I've got 35 or so smaller parts which need to match.

    PS. I picked up my painted parts today and miraculously, the instrument cluster housing looks pretty good (no runs spotted as yet)!~ but I did get signficant runs on some long garnish mouldings ... several parts which I will need to carefully sand off and buff... I've done this before with single stage but never with clear coat...?

  9. #229
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    Don't worry about it, single stage is just clear with some color added to it. Harold Louisiana use to have lacquer on the exterior, and SS imron on the interior, he did that so he didn't have to sand and buff, he even did the door jams that way. If the back side needs paint, I like do that first, then mask it off and use props for small parts. I also sand the color coat and reapply, that makes it flow out better, although you have to be more careful about sand throughs with base clear. Its a bitch being this particular.






  10. #230
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Lee, your instrument cluster and garnish mouldings are superb; shows what a fine hand you have with your spray gun for sure~ I was much better with the gun 30 yrs ago than I am now - my vision is pretty poor which makes it difficult now (several eye surgeries and bad cataract surgery decision on my part - I chose to do monovision correction which was a big mistake on my part!)

    Harold did suggest doing that (urethane on the jambs, etc) before lacquer on the outer surfaces.. While helping a good buddy with his '55 convertible back around 90-91, he would call Harold and talk to him.. We did the whole car following Harold's book calling him when we wanted more information! It was pretty interesting when we took it to it's first show (CCCI International convention in Nashville - 1992?) His '55 was high point car at the show (beat Harold's '57 by a point or two)... Harold was a good guy, always helpful when we called and talked to him...

    Did you add extra clear to your last coats of single stage?
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 07-08-2020 at 04:53 AM.

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