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Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #251
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Well, similar to dealing with most reproduction/aftermarket parts, I decided to just 'proceed' with the tack strip installation and try to make the best of the parts I received. Attached are a few photos of my initial efforts... Well, the order is opposite to what I wanted to display (and opposite to the order I selected the files)! ..

    first/sedond photos: Shows the rear top panels that hold the tack strip and attach above the liftgate at the bottom of the roof in that area. These panels hold the tack strips that for tacking the rear portion of the headliner. The tackstrips were originally attached to the panels using staples (you can likely see the holes in the second photo).

    Third photo: depicts the installed tack strips behind the door with the tabs folded down. I first sanded the backside of the plastic strips then used Weldwood contact cement on both surfaces before installing them.

    Last two photos: Are an attempt to show the area behind the Nomad doors where the tack strip channel changes from a wide shallow area to a more narrow and deeper area on the lower end towards the floor. I ended up using two different thickness of tack strip and transitioned from the 1/8" thick to the 3/8" thick at that point.
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    Last edited by BamaNomad; 07-18-2020 at 07:10 AM.

  2. #252
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    tack strip attachment to the rear panels above the liftgate...

    In trying to deal with installation of the tack strips to those rear upper panels, I found some staples that *might* work, even though these staples are intended to be used on the window channels. What do you fellas think? Should I try to use these staples - and hope they are long enough? or use some fine wire to 'make my own' staples? or just drill holes and pop-rivet the tack strips to the panels?? I'm leaning towards pop rivetting them in place...
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  3. #253
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    I would do some testing before you pop rivet. I'm afraid the rivet will damage the tack strip before it pops.

  4. #254
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Installing tack strips to panels above the liftgate

    After some consideration, and checking all the various staples I had available to me, I found that some 9/16" Craftsman staples I had (1/2" width) were perfect match for the staple holes in the panels, but of course 'stapling' them was impossible, so I choose a drill size slightly larger than the original holes and placed the tack strip in place on each panel, and drilled thru the original hole in the panel and thru the tack strip. I was then able to get the staple thru the tack strip to hit the holes in the panels. Once the staples were in the tack strip and I'd verified they would hit the holes, I then applied Weldwood contact cement and put them on the panels. While holding the panel/tack strip down tightly to a 2/4, I then bradded over the ends of the staples. I'm happy with how this turned out... see photos below...

    So the tack strips are installed as closely as possible to how they did it in the factory (just not as quickly!)..
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  5. #255
    Registered Member Slim57's Avatar
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    Hi Bama. Not much worthwhile to add other than really like progress on you project.

    For what it is worth thinking the staple idea is clean and effective. Better then pop rivet. Would think (minimal experience) that without washer to isolate activation of rivet might have distort tack strip material. But then would have added height at upholstery install...

    Side note thanks for guidance...

  6. #256
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    Looking good Gary.

  7. #257
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    Thanks for the pictures. I had no idea what a tack strip was, but after seeing them, and all the other crazy weird things they did to put these cars together, it sure makes me try and think of alternatives. After the tack strips, then what happens???

  8. #258
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I finished up the tack strips behind and above both doors, along with the LONG strip (58" long) on each side over the slider and corner curved pieces. All I lack re tack strips now is to the left and right of the tailgate, and above the windshield.

    RD: The purpose of the tack strip is to provide something to 'staple to' along the edges of the headliner (all the way around, and to hold the windlace at the back side of the doors. If you don't plan to have a headliner in your car, nor windlace, then you won't require it.. Sedans are different than Nomads, due to body differences, but the purpose is the same.

  9. #259
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    After church today, I was anxious to get to the garage and finish the tack strip install... took me about an hour to sand the backside of the remaining strips (80 grit), apply some weldwood contact cement to the sanded side, apply weldwood cement to the channel area where they would sit, and install the strips bending over the tabs to hold temporarily while the cement sits and cures. The only issue I had was the front strip over the windshield; it was wide but thin, and in a couple of areas, I had to trim down the width of it to ensure it would NOT interfere with the channel lipover when I install the windshield. i'm GLAD to be finished, as contorting my body, bending backwards etc to see/install these things were a pain. I suspect most people leave this job to their upholstery installer.

    I like doing things myself (even the painful ones), and since I plan to do the interior myself... this needed to be done~

    In summary, for others like myself who LIKE to do it themselves.. I have a couple of comments:

    1) Mikey (on the other site) had suggested that it was a good idea to install the tack strips BEFORE any of the glass, and after completing this job I'm glad he suggested it as I also believe it's a good idea. Mostly because when closing those tabs to hold the tack strips, it is VERy close to the glass all around, and a slip of your tool or hammer (even though I used a rubber hammer, I did use a metal tool to push down the tabs) .. could result in a chipped/cracked glass!

    2) Most people suggested one could use (or not use) any adhesive to install the tack strips, but after doing this job, I'd suggest that it is essential to hold the tack strips in place. The weldwood adhesive (contact cement) I used if applied correctly sets up quickly and HOLDS very good. In some locations, the adhesive may be superfluous (where there's lots of tabs to bend over to hold it, or where you might use staples as I did over the liftgate area, but .. the piece across the front of the roof at the windshield border only has tabs at the left and right with the great part of it's length ONLY having the adhesive to hold it (and mine is holding very well).. I had some on two paint sticks I was using to stir the adhesive and even with attempting to get the adhesive off, I left them sitting together... When I tried this morning to separate the two paint sticks... they split/cracked rather than give up the adhesive~ so I strongly recommend the weldwood contact cement!

    3) as it turned out, I had sufficient tack strip for the job, in spite of the faulty labeling of the pieces which came with my 'Nomad kit'... For my next Nomad, I might just buy 'lengths' of the plastic strips in the two widths/thicknesses and do it myself over purchasing the socalled 'KITS'...

  10. #260
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I've been working a few things recently... Did a trial fit/install of my IDIDIT tilt column (that I bought over 2 years ago but only removed from the packaging a few days ago). I had to ship back the IDIDIT column (for adding an inch to the length) as the shift lever didn't really clear the firewall without scraping. Called IDIDIT and they said send it back and they'll add an inch to the column length (no charge) since I had a Corvette front steer rack. I'm waiting to get the lengthened column back now, but have ordered the necessary linkage rod and indicator bezels (received those already, just need the column back now). IDIDIT told me they sell their columns with a lifetime warranty ...

    Other things I've worked on recently:

    I repainted some of the small parts that had runs or thin areas from my last effort. This time I used a single stage urethane but added some 'clear urethane' to the last coats which is what I'm more experienced with. Turned out much better than my first attempt to use base/clear. I think I'll stay with what I know better..

    I modified the JerryC stainless retainer so it would fit the liftgate weather-strip channel, then fitted it, drilled 5 small holes for later retaining it, then primed and painted it to match the roof color. I will give this a few days to cure then seal/mount the retainer, and then I can install the liftgate weatherstrip (on the body) to prepare for mounting the liftgate. Among the small parts I repainted were the HINGES which had some thin/bare spots from my first painting effort with them.

    I've also spent a lot of time the past few days (and actually over this entire rebuild effort) looking for the correct fasteners for several items. Last night I went thru fasteners for my first 57 Nomad to find the correct fasteners for the LIFT GATE HINGES (both to the body and to the liftgate itself. Apparently these didn't come with the disassembled body I bought and am working on now, so it took me some time to ascertain exactly what I needed. What I found out is:

    Hinge to body: 6 fasteners / hinge (12 total).
    Hex head bolts with captive ext teeth star washers. 1/4-28, L=5/8".

    Hinge to liftgate: 4 fasteners per hinge (8 total).
    large pan-head phillips screws with captive star washers (ext teeth).
    1/4-20 thread. Head ~ 1/2" in diameter.

    I found/ordered the necessary fasteners from McMaster Carr last night, except I had to order the star washers separate from the Hex head bolts.


    Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw
    Grade 8 Steel, 1/4"-28 Thread Size, 5/8" Long
    92620A538



    Zinc-Plated Steel External-Tooth Lock Washer
    for 1/4" Screw Size, 0.256" ID, 0.51" OD
    91114A029




    Steel Pan Head Screws
    with External-Tooth Lock Washer, 1/4"-20 Thread, 5/8" Long
    90402A538



    In checking those, I found where the disassembler had 'broken' one of the hinge/body fasteners in the roof mount, and rather than remove it then, left it and painted it all, so today I will attempt to drill thru it and use an easy out to remove it...

    Last edited by BamaNomad; 09-02-2020 at 09:55 AM.

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