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Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #121
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Good suggestion, and an astute observation CN! You're probably right about the 'rear sag'. Do you think if the frame is 1/4" lower in the back (and shimmed up for the body), that will cause a rear bumper mount issue?

  2. #122
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    You could put some sort of straightedge or string line on the front mounts at the appropriate height and measure the heights to the rest of the mounts relative to the string to check the frame.
    That would be a good plan, much better than trying to measure off the floor which probably isn't flat let alone level. A laser level could be used to level the string. Also, jacking/shimming the frame to get one more mount along the length of the frame at the correct height would simplify the rest of the measurements. You could also do that side to side across the two front mounts. If the measurements showed a rear droop you could fix that. After that, you could shim the frame mounts to correct what you measured, then drop the body on and see what the gaps are.

  3. #123
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I finally decided to just bolt the supports that came down with zero shims, then check the others and shim. 6 supports (the four central ones and two others) came down firm (no shims). 3 or 4 others needed a thin shim or two, but the two at the rear require ~ 3/8 of shim. I have some custom shims which Richard and I made in both 3/8" and 1/4" thickness in aluminum. I will use those along with longer bolts for the two rear most mounts. I did that Saturday night...

    Yesterday with help from my wife, neighbor lady and grandson we rolled the 57 Nomad out of the garage to the sloping driveway (first time out in the sunlight in over a year!).. the paint appears more orange (like matador) in the sun! Using a floor jack, tire blocks, and help from them pushing, we managed to get it turned around and rolled back into the garage pointed the right direction (it's been 'backwards all this time which prevented me from opening the doors and getting inside! Now I can begin the next steps, but I want to make sure there's nothing else left to do underneath... like 'grounding straps from engine to chassis, and body to chassis'! I want to get started on the underdash wiring and instrument panel/dash/firewall population, and I don't want to forget the ground straps!

    I'd be very interested in any suggestions as to ground strap material (or PN), and where you suggest to place such straps, or any other suggestions/info you can provide before I begin that task! I did a search for 2001 Z28 ground straps (my engine/trans came from such a car), and I got the following but it doesn't mention the gauge of the wiring inside!

    https://sdparts.com/i-24096675-acdel...BoCbtEQAvD_BwE

    Any/all help/suggestions very much appreciated!

  4. #124
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Grounding depends on where you put your battery. If the battery is in the stock location, you can just ground it to the engine with a normal battery cable the same size as the positive cable. Then you can ground the engine to the body. In a stock configuration, the frame doesn't even have to be grounded. The body probably only needs to be grounded with a #4, #6 or similar sized wire, depending on how much stuff you're running in the car. Most body ground straps are a pretty large braided cable.

    I put my battery behind the passenger rear tire. I ran the positive battery cable to a Moroso cutoff switch then directly to the starter, through the frame. The ground goes from the battery to the frame, and a smaller wire goes from the battery to the body. The frame is the ground connection to the engine. I have another lug on the frame near the firewall that gets grounded to the engine, and another wire to the body. The body ground only has to ground all the electronics and electrical stuff inside the car as well as lights, horns, etc.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #125
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    I think grounding the frame, or battery negative directly to the highest current draw, which is right on one of the starter mounting bolts, and the the best spots for engine ground. Plus the starter nose is aluminum which conducts better than iron with a lot of surface contact right where it's needed. I like the braided ground straps even though I don't exactly know why so many cars use them, instead of stranded copper?
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 08-20-2018 at 03:54 PM.

  6. #126
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Thanks fellas. I appreciate your comments and they make sense! With modified cars and all the late model additions (AC, fans, etc) I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something!

    Note: Older cars (fifties / sixties at least) used braided copper ground straps (which is no different than stranded copper conductors, except there's no need for an insulator around it). like the ones for a '69 Camaro as shown here in a speedway ad...
    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/M-H-E...BoC5HEQAvD_BwE

  7. #127
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I'm thinking of using a smaller side mount battery, and running the positive battery cable to an easy to access terminal block. Are any of you using such a 'power terminal' for your positive (and maybe negative battery cables) to connect (which are also easy to reach/connect for chargers, jumpers, etc?

  8. #128
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I added a pair of "jumper" posts in both my battery cable runs. Both the negative cable and the positive cable go there first, then the positive cable goes to the cutoff switch and into the frame. The negative cable goes to the frame. The cables are for a side connection yellow top Optima battery and are from AAW. You can see the additional body ground wire in this pic.

    20090301_1254.JPG

    Here you can see the forward ground lug on the frame and where the positive cable exits the frame. I actually put a conduit inside of the frame.

    20170207_007.JPG

    This is how I did the ground lugs per a great suggestion I believe I got from Rick_L long ago. The brass fitting goes into a threaded boss I welded into the frame. This ensures a good ground connection free of paint.


    20150320_006.JPG
    Last edited by chevynut; 08-20-2018 at 07:41 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #129
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Yes, CN... I'm thinking of something like what you have. It appears you mounted your battery inside the rear quarter panel using a drop down kit? After changing out a battery in a friend's Nomad which was installed in one of the drop down kits, I eliminated that from my baseline! I'm still considering either the original front battery location (but on a smaller modified base) vs. putting the battery in my rear 'storage compartment' (under the spare tire cover - which will still be present but not covering a spare tire!). Ease of access is probably more important to me than moving weight to the rear, and having the battery nearer to the starter should be an advantage too.
    Last edited by BamaNomad; 08-20-2018 at 07:39 PM.

  10. #130
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Yes, CN... I'm thinking of something like what you have. It appears you mounted your battery inside the rear quarter panel using a drop down kit?
    It's not a "kit", it's a custom framework I built that a polished stainless drop-down battery box bolts to.


    After changing out a battery in a friend's Nomad which was installed in one of the drop down kits, I eliminated that from my baseline!
    If you notice, my lower inner fenderwell flap is removable with DZUS fasteners which should make dropping the battery out a lot easier. My tubs are also wider than stock which makes it a little easier to get up there.

    20090620_1572.JPG

    20070825_999_2.JPG

    I'm still considering either the original front battery location (but on a smaller modified base) vs. putting the battery in my rear 'storage compartment' (under the spare tire cover - which will still be present but not covering a spare tire!). Ease of access is probably more important to me than moving weight to the rear, and having the battery nearer to the starter should be an advantage too.
    I didn't relocate mine to move the weight, I just didn't want an ugly battery in my engine compartment. My second choice would have been a box in the wheel tub accessible from inside. But I didn't want to screw with that either. Mine is totally hidden from view, no doors to mess with, and fairly easy to access. Plus the location made for easy implementation of the hidden jumper lugs.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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