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Thread: Another Nomad project... :)

  1. #151
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    thanks RD. I'm just SLOW... and taking trim off is worse, especially if you've never removed the trim off that type of car before. Over the years, the manufacturers changed/updated the ways they applied/installed trim, so removing it can be a detective job. Installing it without damaging paint (if you have the right fasteners) can also be a pain...

  2. #152
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Looking good! That red paint is really going to pop in the sun!
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


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  3. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Now it's time for the fin/crown mouldings... I've restored the mouldings and the insert with new studs. Does anyone have any suggestions for reinsertion of the inserts and installing of the mouldings on the car? Engaging the crown moulding with the rear fin moulding is causing me a lot of thinking without resolution so far..

    Should I install the tail light housings before doing this??
    There are slots at the back end of the insert that you can use to pound them on or off the stainless.
    Its best to get everything set before paint, so you can make adjustments if needed. Before paint, there are many different ways to adjust the fit.

    I don't recall the name, but there is a cover that goes on the right side tail fin, then the clip for the vertical stainless is first to go on, and I would test fit that stainless alone first. If you don't like the fit, it may help to change the clip. When you are ready, start sliding the vertical piece on the clip, and just before pushing it all the way down, loosely attach the crown molding to the vertical piece, with the front of it elevated. That's the only way the pins will line up with the first hole. As you push the vertical part down it will also slide on the crown molding, and this is because the angle is not 90 degrees.

    Tail lights then bumper.


  4. #154
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    Let me know if you need pictures of how it should all fit.

  5. #155
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    It's never really bothered me ever, when a thread takes a fork in the road. Not a big deal. At least it can make it interesting, and keep it rolling, instead of just falling off the edge.

  6. #156
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    An 'aside' in a thread I began doesn't bother me either, RD, but it bothers 'some' here..

    In this particular situation, I think the 'cataract' options are of interest to many here (most of us are old farts and I thought it would be beneficial if these informative comments were in a thread of their own with 'cataract surgery options' as the title... but I think only the administrator can move posts?

  7. #157
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    THANK YOU SID for separating out the several comments on 'Cataract Corrections... which hopefully will help some people in the future!

    -------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by LEE T View Post
    There are slots at the back end of the insert that you can use to pound them on or off the stainless.
    Its best to get everything set before paint, so you can make adjustments if needed. Before paint, there are many different ways to adjust the fit.

    I don't recall the name, but there is a cover that goes on the right side tail fin, then the clip for the vertical stainless is first to go on, and I would test fit that stainless alone first. If you don't like the fit, it may help to change the clip. When you are ready, start sliding the vertical piece on the clip, and just before pushing it all the way down, loosely attach the crown molding to the vertical piece, with the front of it elevated. That's the only way the pins will line up with the first hole. As you push the vertical part down it will also slide on the crown molding, and this is because the angle is not 90 degrees.

    Tail lights then bumper.

    Thanks Lee... The process as you describe it makes sense. I think I follow the process OK...

    I bought the car as a painted bare body and a pile of dirty take off parts... I've got another '57 that is in primer (not painted) that I could test on (but of course each body is a little bit different. I'm trying to use the best of the two sets of parts on this car... I like to tell people that I bought a paint job and got a disassembled car with it! (It's practically impossible to get a decent paint job in my area for a decent price, and my eyes aren't good enough any more to paint anymore...)

  8. #158
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    DSC00363.JPGDSC00362.JPGDSC00361.JPGCarsinsulation added to roof.JPGcargo roof cleaned.JPGUsed adhesive to install the 'carsinsulation' thermal barrier to the roof (over the damping mat)today on the '57 project...

  9. #159
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I'm looking for suggestions from you fellas on what gauge steel (I'm thinking of stainless steel since the body is already painted) for making panels to cover holes in the firewall (e.g. heater box blower hole, etc). McMaster-Carr has 12"x12" polished side stainless in 0.030 thickness for ~ $25... from that I can make the two cover panels I need. Is the 0.030" stainless too thick? not thick enough? to use as a flat plate... what do you guys suggest?

    I have the panel provided by Vintage Air to cover the heater box hole, but it's 'black' (and my firewall is already painted red (not sure I can match it).. and the VA panel is set up to use the stock pins and lock brackets - which aren't there on my firewall...

  10. #160
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    I'm looking for suggestions from you fellas on what gauge steel (I'm thinking of stainless steel since the body is already painted) for making panels to cover holes in the firewall (e.g. heater box blower hole, etc). McMaster-Carr has 12"x12" polished side stainless in 0.030 thickness for ~ $25... from that I can make the two cover panels I need. Is the 0.030" stainless too thick? not thick enough? to use as a flat plate... what do you guys suggest?
    I don't know how the plates are attached but if they're screwed, I would want to make sure the screws don't distort the metal too much or it will look bad. .030" is about 22 gauge, which imo is too thin if it's very visible, which I assume it would be since you want it polished. I would tend to go thicker to minimize distortion when the screws are tightened. I would think something like 18 gauge (.050") or even thicker is what I'd want to use for that reason. It's only a few dollars more and will look better IMO. If you can polish it yourself it's even cheaper.

    Don't you have a local place you can buy stainless sheet so you don't have to pay to ship it? I get mill finished stainless sheet locally and it's pretty smooth. I have bought from this place and their prices are better than McMaster:

    https://www.discountsteel.com/items/...ts=&qty=1#skus
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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