56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Well I dug out some boxes of stuff that I got with my sedan and found SIX new plugs that fit the smaller holes behind the cowl floor brace. It's weird that there's two holes on the passenger side and only one on the driver's side and I never noticed that before. Also found out that the rocker end plugs do fit the holes in the lower cowl but nobody tells you that (not that I could find). Then I noticed there were two more holes under the rear seat and I tried one of the smaller plugs that I used up front but they were too big. Searched through some more stuff and found some "upper cowl" plugs that fit the holes under the rear seat....again nobody mentions those holes. So all I need is the 3/4" plugs Danchuk #813 and something (maybe the same ones) for the holes behind the door since I can't find any of those in my parts stash.
Trying to figure out where to start assembling this thing.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I know the factory attached the rear bumper seal to the body by crimping the sheetmetal over it, but I don't want to do that and damage the paint. Is there a good alternative like using some sort of adhesive? I thought about using some urethane caulk like they use to install windshields. Anyone use anything else?
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Use an adhesive/sealer and 'crimp lightly'... ?
I've been trying to make sure I have everything done on the chassis and under the body before I mate them for the final time. I've attached a new connector to the VSS and completed the transmission harness. The wires from the reverse switch, reverse lockout, VSS, and cutouts are in the harness. It's ready to push up through the transmission tunnel after the body is dropped on.
20181212_003.JPG
When I built the fuel tank and installed the plumbing, I was planning to drop the tank if I ever needed to change the fuel pump so I plumbed the fuel pump with stainless hard lines. During chassis assembly I thought it would be a good idea to cut a hole in the cargo floor to get to the pump. It recently occurred to me that with the hard lines having the pump access hole was moot. If I disconnected the hardlines from the pump I couldn't get the lines out of the way to pull the pump. So today I re-plumbed the tank with flex lines. This way they can be pushed aside to pull the pump unit out of the tank.
20181212_002.JPG
I didn't like the yellow zinc washers for the body mounts and I needed some shims, so I made some custom ones that I can stack.
20181212_004.JPG
I have also topped off the transmission and filled the differential with fluid. I removed all the temporary wiring from the engine along with the engine harness and replaced the oil pressure gauge with the Dakota Digital sender. I removed the distributor so it doesn't hit the firewall and will probably remove the upper intake for the same reason, plus it will be easier to finalize the engine harness with it off. The only other thing I can think of that I still want to do is cut the e-brake cables to length but I'm not sure if I can do it without the body on, since the passenger side attaches to the body behind the rear seat. I'll have to try to estimate where it goes. I think I'll have to do the front cable to the e-brake pedal after the body is on. I don't want to have to lift the body off once it's down on the frame.
Last edited by chevynut; 12-13-2018 at 07:49 AM.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Good update Laszlo. Stay with it..you're getting closer to driving it.
1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.
Aluminum spacers to replace the washers are cool, but why not just one solid one rather than stacking three, less time to make (too late now) and as a judge, I would wonder why. If a judge stops to ponder, you may derail his efforts and eliminate yourself from the top honors. I love the effort you have here, very nice overall.
Nick, thanks for the feedback. The steel body washers are 1/8" thick so I made these out of 1/8" aluminum plate, not rod. It was pretty easy to do. I thought about making one thick shim but this way I can easily tweak the thickness if I need to. I don't think a stack of them looks bad myself. I had to shim the #2 mounts to get the cowl to sit right and the doors to fit.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
CN your ride is looking amazing, I know you said you didn't want to remove the body once it's on the frame, did you consider adjusting the mounts with the washers then can the body be lifted just enough to slide the washers out and make 1 shim the same thickness or is it to hard to kept the gaps that way. I'm just asking for the future. Thanks
Thanks. Yes that's possible and easily done. I made "custom" machined aluminum shims for my fenders top and bottom, and for the bumper braces. There's custom shims for the tailgate and inner fenders too. All the shims are stamped with their location. I could do it for these two body mounts too if I wanted to.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax