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Thread: Nomad final assembly

  1. #61
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Got my door hinges wired up and put heat shrink on the harness and assembled them with new bushings. I'll terminate the ends after I install the doors. I decided to add one "spare" wire to each hinge, so I didn't have to try to run another wire if I needed one for anything in the future. So the driver's hinge has 10 wires and the passenger hinge has 11 wires . That's about all that will fit and there are some 14 and 16 gauge wires in there.

    20181217_006.JPG


    I also finished up what I could on the e-brake cables and they're clamped to the frame. I drilled and tapped a couple of holes under the body to attach the passenger side cable to when the body is in place. All I have to do then is install the front cable from the foot brake and hopefully I can make the connection and adjustments with the body on.

    20181217_003.JPG

    Finally, I added three "spare" wires to my firewall harness too. I'm using a 22 position WeatherPak connector and only had 19 positions used. I decided I might as well wire up all the positions to the harness under the dash and I can add the wires in front of the firewall if I ever need them. It's a lot easier to do now than try to fish a wire through later.

    I think the chassis is now ready to drop the body on, as I can't think of anything else I need to do.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #62
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Redundancy is good.

  3. #63
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    I hadn't considered running the e-brake cables on the top of the frame rail, looks like a good idea.

  4. #64
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    I hadn't considered running the e-brake cables on the top of the frame rail, looks like a good idea.
    I don't know about that. It looks tight once the body goes down on the frame. How you gonna tighten all those fittings with them sandwiched in there?
    I did mine along the outside of the frame rail, easier to get to them for adjustment.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  5. #65
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    I don't know about that. It looks tight once the body goes down on the frame. How you gonna tighten all those fittings with them sandwiched in there?
    There's quite a bit of room between the frame and body where the adjustments are, from what I have observed. The floor rises 2" or more under the front seats as you can see by my crossmember height which clears the floor. I don't think it's going to be that bad to make the adjustment, but I'll find out. I wish Lokar had set it up to adjust it at the pedal instead. It's tight behind the center body brace back to the brace under the seat. I didn't want the cables and adjusters on the inside of the frame because it's crowded there with brake lines and exhaust, and I personally thought it was too ugly to put on the outside of the frame.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #66
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I am of the same opinion as wagoncrazy... I think you might regret putting those items on the top of the frame rail. I considered putting some things on the top of mine, but decided there was not enough room for 'maintenance access'...

    Please let us know what you think after you get the body set down on it!

  7. #67
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    I am of the same opinion as wagoncrazy... I think you might regret putting those items on the top of the frame rail. I considered putting some things on the top of mine, but decided there was not enough room for 'maintenance access'...

    Please let us know what you think after you get the body set down on it!
    I did a lot of measuring and looking at that area and hopefully it works out. I'll know before long. I really don't expect to have to do much "maintenance" on it once it's adjusted. I heard the same stuff about my clutch reservoir being under the dash. Once it's bled and adjusted, I really don't expect to have to deal with it much after that. Hidden brake and coolant reservoirs are the same deal. I have level sensors to tell me if the fluids get low.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #68
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    Just remember for best maintenance, fluids ALWAYS need to be changed more often than I ever get around to. More vehicles compound the problem. I'm at least 3 years overdue changing brake fluids on one car with 3 under the dash master cylinders, and every other vehicle I own.

  9. #69
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I went through 2-3 sets of ignition switches, door locks, tailgate locks, and glove box locks with a pile of keys I have. I found a key that works for one ignition switch, one pair of door locks, and one tailgate lock. I'm pretty sure these are the original keys and locks for my Nomad. But I can't find a key that works for either of the glove box locks I have. Can a locksmith make a key for it, or do I have to buy a new one? I'd sure like all the keys to be the same. I wonder if I really need to lock the glove box, but I think it would be handy at times.

    Today I decided to rebuild my heater controls and install new levers and the Vintage Air potentiometers. What a PITA that is. The bracket that they send you for the fan control pot puts it in a position that makes it bind, and it's crooked as hell. I ended up trashing it and making my own bracket for it so everything lines up and works smoothly.

    I'm trying to install the new heat control levers and I am having a hard time getting the spring compressed to install the washer and second lever. Any tricks to doing that?

    What are the little nubs on the levers where they ride against the side of the control frame? I'm referring to the nubs or tabs right next to the pivot pin...seems like they cause misalignment of the lever.




    I bought a new bezel and when I went to take mine apart, the bezel is almost perfect. I guess I'll use it on my next project...if I live that long.

    One other thing I noticed is you have to remove the fan switch to install the Vintage Air parts, and in doing so you remove the light. They don't give you anything to replace the light with or tell you how to deal with it. What are you supposed to do?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #70
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    May 2012

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    A good locksmith should be able to help you out. When I bought my 55 it came with no keys, I removed all the locks and replaced or rekeyed them the same as my 56. I have rekeyed my 72 Blazer, Two 87 GMC 4x4s and my Dads 46 Chevy pickup to my 72 Cheyenne Supers key also.

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