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Thread: Nomad final assembly

  1. #111
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    However, the vent windows are a strange creature. On the cutouts and power side windows (I think) the two motor wires get reversed to run the motor one way or the other. It took me a while to figure out that the vent window motor has to be grounded, then powering the two wires separately while leaving the other un-grounded runs the motor. Not sure why they did it that way since it's different from everything else.
    In doing some research I found out that these older motors work differently than newer motors. On new power window motors you reverse power and ground on the two leads going to the motor. That is how my Electric Life power windows work, and how my cutout motors work.

    However, on the vent window motors (58-64 Chevy), and all the older chevy power windows you have two leads and they BOTH get switched to power depending on which way you want the motor to turn, and the motor case gets grounded. If you ground the other lead when you apply power to one, the motor doesn't work. So I'm hoping I can find a way to make the window controller work. On the other hand, I don't know that I really want the vent windows "one touch" so I may just use relays. Damn I have a lot of relays.

    Also, after sending back one of my vent window motors since they gave me two of one side, I discovered that one of them is junk. The motor ran for a while, then it got slower and slower until it would no longer run. The one that does run gets jammed when all the way open or closed and it won't reverse. Not sure what to do about that, but I know I don't want any vent window handles on my door panels.
    I happened to notice that Tom's Classics sell the Auto City Classic vent window motors and his ad states " These motors come with a lifetime warranty.". So even though I didn't buy them from Tom's, I assume Auto City will honor the warranty. I can't believe neither of these works right. I'll call them in the morning to see what they'll do for me.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #112
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Tom's Classic and AutoCity are the same company (or divisions within the same company)....

  3. #113
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Good news! Auto City Classics told me to sent the motors back and they'll send me a good pair. I hope this isn't an ongoing problem with these things.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #114
    Registered Member MP&C's Avatar
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    Bumper sure looks nice!
    Robert



    MP&C Shop Projects-Metalshaping Tutorials


    Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom


    .

  5. #115
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Attachment 9584[/QUOTE]

    Need to bend that bumper to better match that Porsche.

  6. #116
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I got the new vent window motors back from Auto City Classic but I haven't tried them yet. I hope they work better than the last pair.

    I've been continuing to work on wiring when I can. I'm also building more seat mount kits, and working on an Art Morrison 59 Corvette frame. The owner (my interior guy) bought it with a C5 front end and wants a narrowed C4 Dana 44 in it.

    20190228_005.JPG

    The VHX computer is all wired up and yesterday I fired it up to check functionality. Everything works that I was able to check....all my warning functions work. Coolant level, engine over-temp, and hood unlatched turn on the "check engine" light. My brake fluid level and e-brake switch turn on the "!" warning light. The, turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, and backlighting all works. I connected a light bulb and the taillights, brake lights, turn signals, and 4-way flashers all work. However, the damn 4-way flasher switch in the column won't stay pushed in. I think this turn signal switch got damaged at Flaming River during assembly so I'll probably have to get a new one. First I'll pull it out to see what's wrong with it.

    I'm currently wiring up the relays that go on the back of the valence halves. On the driver's side I have a driver's side vent window switch, Passenger side vent window switch, and a switch to operate my cutouts. Behind the valence are two relays to run the driver's vent windows. On the passenger side there are no switches, but I have two relays to run the passenger vent window, one relay to enable the backlights in the switches (they need to be grounded) and two relays to operate the A/C and A/C inhibit at full-throttle. I'm using a signal from the engine ECU that monitors the TPS.

    The valence halves will have connectors on each end so they can be removed if needed. I still have to cut the A/C vents and switch holes in them but I've been hesitating in case I want to move things around a little. I'm having some attachment hardware laser cut for the switches. I'm pretty sure we'll be covering the valence with leather, so I have to clearance the switch holes properly.

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    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #117
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    This wiring project has turned into a huge, tedious job and it continues every day when I have time. I had everything done under the dash and realized I was missing a couple of wires that also go to the keyless entry, so I had to add them. I ended up re-configuring a relay on the firewall to make more sense with the proximity of other devices so that's done.

    Also, since I'm not that familiar with audio systems I ran separate wires from the tweeters and speakers to the stereo....only to find out they need to be connected together. I thought they took separate wires . I could have saved a bunch of wire by splicing them together before running them to the console. I tried to run the wires to the rear speakers and found out that I didn't have long enough pieces left so I had to order more. I also need to add a wire to trigger the backup camera which I realized after looking at the owner's manual more closely. That's all that's left to complete the stereo wiring.

    I have the ECU/engine wiring completed along with the Electronic Spark Control, knock sensor, Wideband O2, and fuel pump/injector control and it's all integrated into the harness. I had to add some wires to the ECU to get a couple other programmable signals out. I'm using the TPS signal to turn the A/C off when at full-throttle, and the temperature output to turn on the "check engine" light on the VHX cluster.

    The wiring of the power control relays, window controllers, fan controller and headlight/dome/RAP controller is completed. I found a BMW connector for my coolant level sensor too. I was a little concerned about that when I searched everywhere in the world and couldn't find one....finally eBay came through. But instead of having loose contacts and seals, it came with pigtails which I hate.

    I have everything completed as far as I know down to the console, and have added all the power wires that need to go to the fuse panel from the modules. I added all the switch wires for the cutouts, windows and door locks. There's a lot more wiring in the console than I thought there would be. The alarm is integrated into the door locks and dome light control and there's signals running every which way, including to the door lock and window switches.

    One issue I have to resolve is that my DD PAC-3500 door lock controller outputs a negative lock signal as does the keyless entry. However, my lock switch is configured so it can only output a positive signal. So I have to sort that out somehow....may just use a couple of small transistors instead of relays. I also have run out of room for my cutout controller and keyless entry box so I have to figure out where to mount them.

    I got the 4-way flasher switch fixed. I removed the turn signal switch assembly and noticed that the plastic catch for the 4-way hazard lights was bent a little (probably at FR during assembly) and wouldn't stay latched...so I put it where it needs to be and heated it slightly with a heat gun and let it cool....works perfectly now. I guess it's "memory plastic".



    It still looks like a mess, but believe it or not there's a lot of progress.

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    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #118
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    YIKES

  9. #119
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    A schematic, with numbers for every wire would save a lot of time in the long run. I would hate to have to get back into some of my wiring, even after making good notes, and labels. And it only has like 12 circuits. I've worked on hundreds of industrial machines with hundreds of wires individually labeled, with prints, and it was always a nightmare with every issue at some point. Even a stock try-five can be a challenge.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 04-05-2019 at 04:30 PM.

  10. #120
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    Glad that is not mine to figure out, wiring issues kept my 56 sidelined most of the 70s and all of 80s.

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