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Thread: Nomad final assembly

  1. #171
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I'm finding something really strange as I dive into this power issue. Holley specifies to use a fuse on the constant power to the ECU, but no fuse is specified for the switched power. Dakota Digital says that BOTH the switched and constant power need to be fused on the Door Lock Controller. They also say the constant power to the Headlight/Dome/RAP controller should be fused, but don't say the switched power should be fused. On the DD Fan Controller they say both switched and constant power should be connected to separate 5A fuses. Vintage Air shows a 30A circuit breaker for the blower, compressor clutch and ECU constant power but no fuse on the switched power to the ECU.

    So what's the deal on this requirement for switched and constant power? First of all, why can't everything be switched power in the A/C system? I don't need anything to work with the key off. Same with the fan controller...why wouldn't I want switched and constant power to be on the same switched circuit? Why do they even need both switched and constant power to the CONTROLLER? Same with the door lock controller. The keyless entry and door lock switch can still actuate the door lock relays without the Dakota Digital Door Lock Controller powered up. I asked a DD tech about this and as usual he didn't have a clue.

    Why would the VHX module and Cruise Control need two different power inputs? I don't need either one to work with the key off. Even the C950 ECM has two power inputs for some reason I don't understand. It doesn't need power to retain program memory. It must have something to do with the way the logic "wakes up" and resets.

    Any ideas?
    Last edited by chevynut; 04-21-2019 at 09:37 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #172
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    I have vintage air in my 65 Corvette and when I turn off the power at the battery and reconnect it the vintage air goes thru a start up cycle. I know this is not the power door locks but possibly there is a start up cycle associated with your system in a similar way.

    In fact the start up cycles the blower and possibly other “stuff”. By the time I’m down the drive way the air is working as normal.

    I always park my classic vehicles in the garage power off at battery.

  3. #173
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Gmvette, I think there's a legit reason to have two separate power connections for the VA. In fact, there's three of them. There's a 30A breaker that the compressor clutch relay is connected to, as is the blower fan. So the switched power obviously enables the ECU that controls the compressor and fan. But one of my questions is why isn't the switched power fused?

    Few of the other items really have high current going to them so the twin power connections don't make sense. The alarm/keyless entry system needs to function with the key off so I can understand it having constant power, and it needs to know when the key is turned off. The DD controllers don't need separate power, imo so I don't know why they do that. It's not hard to design a power-on reset to get the logic into the right state when the key is turned on. The fan controller only needs constant power if you want the fans to run when the ignition is off....I don't. I couldn't get a straight answer from DD as to whether or not I could just hook both power connections to switched power. Why would you need constant power to a cruise control?

    Anyhow, I've combined fuses and I'm down to 28. I've allocated 20 fuses in front, including 2 spare slots, and 16 fuses in the rear, including 6 spare slots for 36 total available fuse slots in case I need to add something. The rear panel will be all constant power with the front one split up between RAP, Ignition power, ACC power, and constant power. Now I just have to wire it up.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  4. #174
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    You my friend...are in wiring jail.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  5. #175
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    It will be interesting to see what the key-off current drain will be? I have a disconnect my C5 battery if it is going to sit for a couple weeks, but then the fuel trims, etc. have to relearn. Better than killing the battery though. It always makes me nervous with any modern car with all of the fire potential key-off power they require. On my 2 vehicles without computers I disconnect the battery every time I park them, even though the only potential power is to the ignition switch, lights, and starter. Another good thing about carbs.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 04-22-2019 at 03:39 PM.

  6. #176
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    You my friend...are in wiring jail.
    Jail? It feels more like wiring hell!

    I'm making progress and now that I got over the fuse panel hump maybe I can move forward. Sure wish I understood the two power supply deal, but I'll go with it even if it doesn't make sense. Today I separated the wires into groups and untangled them and things look a little less confusing. I have to put a couple more connectors onto the wiring going to the valence halves from the console.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #177
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Jail? It feels more like wiring hell!
    With jail...you eventually get out. With Hell...you're in for good.

    I'd say you're turning the corner on another highly technical and thought inducing step here (electrical). But done well...it pays off later on in the enjoyment factor. Remember, if it's not fun to drive and be in...you won't drive it. So keep on doing it "right" and this will pay off big time.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  8. #178
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Sure wish I understood the two power supply deal, but I'll go with it even if it doesn't make sense.
    That seems highly unlike you Laszlo. Your questions are good ones, that I can't answer either.

    As long as youve got a fuse in the circuit somewhere (for keeping the damage minimized upon short circuiting), then my logic says you are OK with either source of electricity (switched or constant battery). But you are certainly way ahead of me in knowledge of electrical circuitry.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  9. #179
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    That seems highly unlike you Laszlo. Your questions are good ones, that I can't answer either.
    I have a pretty good understanding of electronics and electricity and even designed electronic equipment and other things in my career. I built a microcontroller that we used to run a robot for my senior engineering project eons ago. The real issue is that I can't even get the manufacturer to give me straight answers on their stuff. I recently called DD and asked how much current the "DOME" output of their dome light controller could sink and the tech had no clue. He didn't even offer to go ask the engineer who designed it. I told him I wanted to turn on several lights with it and needed to know the limits, and he said use a relay. He said the controller might turn on a couple of lights....didn't even ask if they were incandescent or LED. Seriously? This is a "soft dimming" module and if I used a relay it would defeat the purpose of it. I told him the output had to be some kind of transistor/MOSFET and if he could tell me the type I could look it up. He had no idea. Then I called them again and asked about the "warn" output on the door lock controller, and exactly how it functioned. The manual doesn't give a good explanation. I asked if it was speed sensitive and if it reset below a certain speed.....he didn't know. I asked why their modules had the dual power supply requirement and he said that's the way they're designed. So I asked why I couldn't hook up both of the fan controller power pins to switched power and he said he wasn't sure that would work. The DD techs are clueless and I wonder who hires these guys. And in fact it's not only DD. Autoloc is just as bad.

    As long as youve got a fuse in the circuit somewhere (for keeping the damage minimized upon short circuiting), then my logic says you are OK with either source of electricity (switched or constant battery).
    The question isn't WHICH source to use, they want you to use BOTH sources for some reason. Like I said, it makes sense for something that needs to know when the key is off and has to function with it off, but why does a cruise control (sold by DD) need power when the engine isn't even running? Why does a fan controller need power when you want the fans NOT to run with the key off? It's that stuff that these guys can't answer. I'm pretty sure they'd work connected to one supply, but at this point I don't want to take the chance of it not working. Oh, and Vintage Air doesn't even show, specify, or supply a fuse in their switched power lead. I guess they expect something else to protect that circuit. SMH.

    Anyhow.....I got the rear fuse panel power wired up today, and plan to tackle the front one. Then I can start connecting the individual circuit wires.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #180
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    This afternoon I got the front fuse panel all terminated and wired, and it was a lot easier than I expected it to be. I'm glad I reduced the size to 20 fuses because that gave me more room to route wires. The hard part was dealing with the larger wires and getting them all to fit underneath the panel. I realized that I went way over-kill with some wires like my ignition switch power wire because which hardly carries any current now, only to some relay coils. I did that in a few other places too. I'll probably use LED headlights but I wired it for H4 Halogen bulbs just in case. The LEDs only draw 1.1A on low beam and 1.5A on high beam when operated separately. At least I won't get much voltage drop.
    Last edited by chevynut; 04-23-2019 at 11:06 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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