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Thread: Nomad final assembly

  1. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Or one could just leave it off ... or design your own if one desires to be CUSTOM...

    Agree, no emblems they break up the clean look. Not original look but everybody has their own preference. The only emblem on my 57 Nomad is the colorful grill bar crest and the Belair on the dash. No outside mirror nor antenna neither. Even eliminated the extruded aluminum script/crest.

    But chrome trim vs brass color is better.

  2. #372
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    The tailgate emblem letters on this black car are painted black. It's a beautiful car with LS power, and C4 suspension. It has the Nomad script on the speaker grill. Way too late now, but before you had it chromed you could have knocked out the centers, filled the holes in the tailgate, and stuck it on. They didn't have good adhesives in the 50's. I'm trying to find ways to stick stuff on instead of drilling holes to put stuff on with hard to reach fasteners.
    https://www.rkmotors.com/vehicles/15...-bel-air-nomad
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 01-08-2020 at 04:49 PM.

  3. #373
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    3M emblem adhesive works very well....

  4. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    You don't see many of these around....

    Attachment 10421

    Attachment 10422
    Its a good look. I can see from the pic how it works with the latch.

    I am sure the chroming wasnt cheap.

  5. #375
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I'm going to try to continue my final assembly thread. If anyone has suggestions or constructive criticism, I welcome it. Just keep your other garbage off of this thread. If you want to post something about your car that's relevant to my Nomad assembly, that's fine. If you just want to post stuff about your car, or someone else's car, start your own thread. If you just want to bash, GFY. Thank you.

    Here's some pictures of when I put the body on the frame in early 2021. I was already installing trim, lights, etc. and doing wiring before that while on the rotisserie. I ended up realizing that using hard lines on my fuel pump was not smart if I ever needed to remove the pump, so I changed them to flex lines.

    20170205_009.JPG

    20181212_002.JPG

    My wife helped guide the body down onto the frame, but it was not that difficult to do. I'd already done it myself multiple times. I first set it on 3" tall urethane blocks using the cherry pickers, then used hydraulic jacks to lower it the rest of the way. I removed the upper intake manifold and distributor to keep from hitting the firewall.

    IMG_2569.JPG

    IMG_2571.JPG

    IMG_2618.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #376
    Registered Member Troy's Avatar
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    That's cool, you just made me feel good about lifting one end of my '55 with my engine hoist!! Where did you hook the front chains to?

  7. #377
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    After the body was on the chassis, I re-installed the distributor and intake manifold, and wired up the engine and tried to start it. It was running before, so I thought it would be easy to start it back up. I used jumper cables from my battery cables at the rear of the car to a deep-cycle trailer battery I had since the Optima I bought years before died . All it did was crank and fire now and then. I tried and tried and couldn't get it to stay running. I knew the problem was either fuel or spark. At the time, I didn't have a fuel pressure gauge so I checked the timing. It seemed okay with a light, but it was erratic and sometimes I would get it to fire and other times it wouldn't. This led me on a wild goose chase. I first found out that the jumper cables were causing too much of a voltage drop which would allow the engine to crank, but was messing up my ignition due to too low of a voltage. So I jury-rigged a battery up front directly to the starter and the firing improved. I have since replaced the Optima.

    Once I got things cranking right, I started messing with the ignition timing. I also ordered a fuel pressure gauge kit but it hadn't arrived yet. I had a friend over helping and I asked him to rotate the distributor to advance it slightly. That's when the shit hit the fan. After trying to crank it, there was a loud "bang!" and I knew something bad happened. I thought the starter blew up but it was worse....I pulled the starter and the nose was completely broken off and it was INSIDE THE BELLHOUSING! I tried everything I could to get it out and was afraid I'd have to pull the transmission to get to it. I got a USB camera and got this image, then I saw the bearing and realized I might be able to get it out with a magnet.

    IMG_2761.jpg

    So I got a couple of really strong rare earth magnets and put them inside of a tube....

    64169301800__40147F2C-CEB1-4DC0-8A85-DCD614151F82.JPG

    After a few tries, I was able to pull the piece out.....

    IMG_2763.JPG

    I verified I had it all....

    IMG_2766.JPG

    I ordered a new starter and while I was waiting I plumbed a fuel pressure gauge into the fuel line. I was only getting 8 PSI so I figured either my fuel pump had a problem or the pressure regulator went out. I blocked off the return line to the tank and still only got 8 PSI....so I knew it was the pump unit. I got the new starter and got it cranking right again. I had pulled the fuel pump and this is what I found....

    IMG_2776.JPG

    IMG_2778.JPG

    IMG_2779.JPG

    This was a piece of EFI Fuel Hose. What I didn't know, is that this hose wasn't the "submersible" hose you need in a gas tank. I had no idea that the liner was the only thing fuel resistant in a typical EFI hose. Anyhow, I found the proper hose ($38 a foot!!!) and fixed it and re-installed the pump. If anyone needs 6" I have some....LOL!

    After all that, I finally got the engine running again.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #378
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Once the engine was running I felt good about continuing the assembly process. I was working on some more wiring inside the car and one day I decided to start the engine again. It started and ran fine, then I shut it off and shortly thereafter I started smelling gas. I looked under the car and gas was running out.

    I pulled the fuel pump cover again and turned on the key. Gas was running out of the fuel pump hose fitting so I figured I blew an o-ring in the fitting. I took the hose out and found it had disintegrated too. This was braided stainless fuel hose from Summit Racing. I don't know if I did something wrong assembling the hose end, but the hose split and blew out. I know I lubed it and tightened it carefully. The other end was fine.

    IMG_3394.jpeg

    I replaced the hose with some Earle's hose I bought and re-used the hose end. It looked identical to the Summit hose. So far, so good. But it makes me a little nervous about the rest of the hoses.

    My friend saw this and commented that I don't seem to have "normal problems" with my car.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #379
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Nov 2016

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    Location
    Rocket City, USA (Huntsville, AL area)
    Posts
    3,774
    My gosh CN! I think you've had your share of problems getting back on your nomad! Did you make it mad by not working on it for awhile?

    Glad to hear it's all fixed and engine is running now!

    Troy: CN must have missed your question, but a good strong location to support the front of the body from is the hood hinge fasteners in the firewall... Maybe CN can confirm that's what he used or if he found another location...

  10. #380
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    With the engine stuff taken care of, I continued the assembly. I installed the rear bumper and tailgate.....

    IMG_3190.jpeg

    Then I assembled the liftgate using new glass and Madmooks anti-rattle plate that I painted charcoal. I wanted to tone down the "bling" on the car a little. I also painted the drip rail body color.

    IMG_3418.jpeg

    IMG_3415.jpeg

    After installing the liftgate weatherstrip I installed and adjusted the liftgate.

    IMG_3774.jpeg

    Next the saga of the quarter glass and sliders....
    Last edited by chevynut; 12-01-2022 at 11:43 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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