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Thread: Nomad final assembly

  1. #231
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I actually like the plastic VA glove box.....if it would fit. I think it looks nice in the picture above. I may try heating and bending the lower part of it so it fits the glove box hinge better, or make a sheetmetal "adapter" that it screws to. We're heading to northwest Washington for a week so I have time to think about it.

    I've ordered a bunch of stuff to try to finish up this electrical work.....switches, indicator lights, etc. The detail is as hard as building the harness. I've been tying up loose ends, added a couple of wires here and there, and have the rear fuse panel all wired up. I've added the connectors for the footwell light wires, VSS wires, cutout wires, and completed the wiring of switch connectors on the valence. I'm chicken to cut out the valence holes for the switches because I'm not sure how I'm going to finish the valence yet...paint or leather. Leather will require a bigger opening to wrap it around. I may just make them smaller now and open them up if we cover them with leather.

    I still have to figure out how to interlock my hood release and RLO and add a connector to the wires that go to the RLO solenoid. Aside from that all I have left to hook up is the keyless entry/alarm, amp, and a couple of grounds. There's something like 18 or 20 wires that go to the keyless entry and they're all accounted for.

    When I ordered my last batch of laser cut parts for our C4 conversion frames I had them cut some parts for mounting my switches. I designed some plates that will be epoxied to the back of the valence, and retainers for the switches. I welded some studs onto the plates that are used to hold the switch retainers in place. I also found some new connectors and terminals from a Chinese source that look like OEM tooling....probably black market .

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    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #232
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Here's what I'm trying to do with my hood release and reverse lockout (RLO)....

    My electric hood release uses a large solenoid and cable, and I'm operating it with a relay. That relay coil is powered by a switched power source, and the other side is grounded by the keyless entry. So if there's no power to the relay, the keyless entry can't operate the relay. The hood can be opened with the key fob, so I want to interlock the hood release relay so it can't get power if the car is moving, so it can't be accidentally opened.

    The RLO solenoid needs power to allow easy shifting into reverse. Again, I want to interlock this so that if the car is moving, the RLO solenoid can't get power.

    The Dakota Digital PAC-3500 door lock controller has a "WARN" output that is used with suicide door pins. It has a VSS input that can lock the doors at a specific speed that's programmable. The WARN output goes low (ground) if either of the suicide pin switches are not grounded, indicating that one or both of the doors are un-latched. Below a programmed speed, the WARN output goes high (+12V).

    I am trying to use that WARN signal to activate a relay, such that power is interrupted to the RLO and hood release when WARN is active. So at a specific speed, the normally closed relay contacts will open, removing the power from the RLO solenoid and the hood release relay.

    I talked to DD about the details of the operation of the WARN signal, and didn't really get the answers I needed so this is what I'm going to try to do. One thing I am unsure of is whether I want the RLO solenoid always powered below a certain speed. It only takes about 1A to actuate, but I would rather only actuate it when I actually want to go into reverse. But I'm not sure how to accomplish that. I think the transmission has to be IN reverse before the backup light switch is actuated, or I could use it. Another way I can think of doing it is adding a switch inside the shifter, so the switch closes when the shifter is pushed into the reverse gate, all the way to the right (T56). That way, the RLO solenoid would only get power below a certain speed AND if I wanted to go into reverse.

    I know some guys use the brake light switch to power the RLO but I'm not sure that's the right thing to do either. Although it would be easier than a switch in the shifter. Any other ideas how to do that interlocking?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #233
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    I had to read your post twice to follow you and you still lost me. That doesn't mean you are doing anything wrong here, just that I have to think harder to keep up with you...

    I am trying to use that WARN signal to activate a relay, such that power is interrupted to the RLO and hood release when WARN is active. So at a specific speed, the normally closed relay contacts will open, removing the power from the RLO solenoid and the hood release relay.
    That makes sense. So the default operation here is that both are powered when vehicle speed is say...less than 1mph. When it's over 1mph, it would result in the hood release and RLO relay "loosing power" and then neither work at all.

    One thing I am unsure of is whether I want the RLO solenoid always powered below a certain speed. It only takes about 1A to actuate, but I would rather only actuate it when I actually want to go into reverse. But I'm not sure how to accomplish that. I think the transmission has to be IN reverse before the backup light switch is actuated, or I could use it. Another way I can think of doing it is adding a switch inside the shifter, so the switch closes when the shifter is pushed into the reverse gate, all the way to the right (T56). That way, the RLO solenoid would only get power below a certain speed AND if I wanted to go into reverse.
    Hmm...so you don't want that RLO to be activated until you physically push the lever all the way to the right (into the reverse spot)? What's wrong with just leaving it always powered (meaning able to physically move the shift lever into reverse) when less than 1mph? Why the 2 step approach as you are suggesting?
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  4. #234
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    So the default operation here is that both are powered when vehicle speed is say...less than 1mph. When it's over 1mph, it would result in the hood release and RLO relay "loosing power" and then neither work at all.
    Yes that's basically it....I'd disable power to the RLO and the Hood release at some pre-set speed. It will probably be over 1 mph because it has to be the same speed that the door locks operate..like 10-15 MPH.

    I also have access to the VSS signal so I could build a circuit that disables the power at almost any speed. I think I could use something like a LM555 timer circuit to do that, or just built a discrete circuit using a capacitor and resistor and maybe an op-amp. I'm going to try the "WARN" signal first and see how that goes.


    Hmm...so you don't want that RLO to be activated until you physically push the lever all the way to the right (into the reverse spot)? What's wrong with just leaving it always powered (meaning able to physically move the shift lever into reverse) when less than 1mph? Why the 2 step approach as you are suggesting?
    Because 1 MPH isn't really practical since it's the "WARN " signal would trigger at the same speed as the door lock signal locks the doors. Also, I'd not want the RLO powered all the time under that speed or switching back and forth if I'm in slow traffic. I'm on vacation in Washington and thought about this for a few days. I decided to use the "WARN" signal AND the brake light signal for this. So I would have to be under a certain speed AND have the brakes on for the RLO to activate. I could use the clutch but I'd have to add another switch on it since my clutch switch activates the starter solenoid when cranking. So the brake light switch would activate the RLO at under around 10-15 MPH. I figure that whenever I'm going into reverse I'd have the brake pedal depressed as well as the clutch. But at least if I have the brakes on and downshift from 6th to 5th I can't go to Reverse at high speed. At low speeds I'll be in the lower gear range and hitting reverse wouldn't be much of a concern. Using the brake switch is a lot easier than putting a switch in the shifter too, although I think that's the best solution to prevent cycling of the RLO solenoid.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #235
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    How do they control the lockout in the C5 Corvette? On my C5 I don't think I would ever need a lockout since it takes a lot of effort to get it all the way right, and forward. Mine always fall right into 5th, and I wouldn't even know it was locked out. I also have always used a Husrt T-handle shift knob in countless cars since I was 16. Even have one in my C5. Once you learn the 3 pressure points on the handle it glides into the right gear every time. I sure love the good old Muncie 4 speed with reverse left, and forward. You could shift those things without lifting off the throttle. My Camaro with that setup just has the right feel.
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 05-29-2019 at 04:23 PM.

  6. #236
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    How do they control the lockout in the C5 Corvette? On my C5 I don't think I would ever need a lockout since it takes a lot of effort to get it all the way right, and forward.
    If that's the case the lockout is always working, IE the solenoid isn't getting power. They do it with the VSS and I believe the clutch switch on the C5. The lockout solenoid has to be POWERED to allow easy shifting into Reverse. If it's not powered, it's always hard to shift it into Reverse.The solenoid is supposed to power up when the ignition is on and the car isn't moving. Once it hits 3 MPH the ECM disables the solenoid, causing the reverse gate to be locked out. You can still shift into reverse, but it should be hard to do.


    Mine always fall right into 5th, and I wouldn't even know it was locked out.
    The lockout keeps you from shifting into Reverse, not 5th. If you can't shift into reverse easily, the lockout is working.

    I also have always used a Husrt T-handle shift knob in countless cars since I was 16. Even have one in my C5. I sure love the good old Muncie 4 speed with reverse left, and forward. You could shift those things without lifting off the throttle. My Camaro with that setup just has the right feel.
    My 6-speed in my Porsche has reverse left and forward, and I don't know why the Tremecs don't. Muncies are junk by today's standards, but so are T3 lights and other 50-60 year old crap.
    Last edited by chevynut; 05-29-2019 at 04:20 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  7. #237
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    Other than not having overdrive, why are the Muncie's junk? Have you ever driven a good one to the limit with a good Hurst shifter?

  8. #238
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    Oh jeez, you guys live to stomp on each other don't you?

    Cnut FWIW there is a commercial solution for swaps on the reverse lockout. Roger1 at the other site has one. It's more than I'd want to spend, but you may want to search for it and see if it's for you.

  9. #239
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    RD: CN just has no appreciation for older cars/technology. SOme of us do (you and I for sure); I have 2 cars with Muncie 4-speeds (M20 in both); a '69 Z28/RS and '69 350/350 Corvette convertible. Both are all original and I like driving them, but driving them or any other manual shift car would get OLD (as me) if I had to drive one every day, especially in work traiffic (but I'm retired now, and I can what/when/where/how I want to!).. You aren't going to convince CN of anything, so you should quit trying..

    I have two 1990 ZR1 corvettes with LT5/ZF 6-speeds and they too would get old in traffic every day, and CN probably doesn't appreciate them either...

  10. #240
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Cnut FWIW there is a commercial solution for swaps on the reverse lockout. Roger1 at the other site has one. It's more than I'd want to spend, but you may want to search for it and see if it's for you.
    I've searched some and saw a little box for $100 but that seems ridiculous for a few simple little parts. I can buy an LM555 timer kit for $8. The VHX computer uses the VSS input for the speedo and outputs a VSS signal that can be used for other devices, and I think the PPM is programmable. The PAC-3500 door lock controller uses that VSS input to lock the doors, and the "WARN" output that I described looks like it can be used without adding another box, so that's my primary plan. If it doesn't work I'll use the VHX VSS output and a simple circuit to give me what I need to control the circuit.

    Right now my plan is to use "WARN" to disable power to BOTH the hood release and RLO when the doors lock via a relay with NC contacts. I'll have to modify the DD PAC-3500 to eliminate the audible warning tone, but that looks easy to do. I'd like to disable power at a lower speed like the 3 MPH that's used in late GM cars, but I don't think I'm too concerned if the hood came unlatched at 10-15 MPH. I also have a hood safety switch that turns on the "check engine" light on the VHX cluster so I'll know when it's unlatched.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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