Just joined? Please introduce yourself.
Page 13 of 61 FirstFirst ... 3111213141523 ... LastLast
Results 121 to 130 of 609

Thread: Nomad final assembly

  1. #121
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    157
    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Also, since I'm not that familiar with audio systems I ran separate wires from the tweeters and speakers to the stereo....only to find out they need to be connected together. I thought they took separate wires . I could have saved a bunch of wire by splicing them together before running them to the console. I tried to run the wires to the rear speakers and found out that I didn't have long enough pieces left so I had to order more. I also need to add a wire to trigger the backup camera which I realized after looking at the owner's manual more closely. That's all that's left to complete the stereo wiring.
    ]
    Looking good man! What make/model speakers are you running in the front? For an average 2 or 3 way component speaker system in the front seats you would wire a single amplified run (from the head unit or a remote amplifier) to a crossover near the front doors. The crossover separates the amplified signal into different frequencies for each speaker. From the crossover you have individual speaker wire runs for the low and/or mid range door speakers and the tweeters on each side. For the rear speakers, a lot of care stereos use coaxial 2/3-way speakers which only require 1 speaker wire run. The speakers handle all of the frequency separation with capacitors mounted onto the back of the speakers.


    Below is an example setup of what I recommend on a budget.

    My go to inexpensive component speakers
    https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB...tronics&sr=1-1

    My go to inexpensive coaxial speakers
    https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB.../dp/B000P0PF9G

    AMP - ROCKFORD FOSGATE PRIME - (I always match the amp to the impedance and power requirements of the speakers purchased)

    And if you ever want to install a sub, do yourself a favor and get a kicker 10" square L5 or L7. It sounds excellent for every genre of music.. It does very well with sustained bass and punchy notes simultaneously.

    https://www.amazon.com/KICKER-S10L74...tronics&sr=1-5

  2. #122
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,835
    My speakers are Polk Audio 6.5 round DXi 6501 in front with separate tweeters and the rear ones are 6x9 coaxial DXi 691 3-waycoaxials. The DB6902 replaced the DXi 6901 and the DB 692 has replaced the DXi 691. I assume they're very similar.

    https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Ur72kp...o-DXi6501.html

    https://www.crutchfield.com/S-wf3aea...io-DXi691.html


    Apparently I should have gotten all the parts out of the boxes and figured all of this out before I started wiring the stereo. I got the stereo wiring diagram out and it doesn't show any crossovers or anything else. It just shows which wires go to which speakers.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #123
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    157
    Awesome! .. that's more or less my exact go-to system.. If you really want to go the extra mile, using a dedicated external 4 channel amplifier to power the speakers will help with overall clarity at lower volumes (and max volume, but that's rarely important IMO).... you can always add that down the road if you need it... I've spec'd almost identical systems to so many people, and they always want to cheap out at the last minute and try to buy stuff thats "similar" but less expensive..... and they usually call me bitching in 6 months trying to make it better. go figure

  4. #124
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,835
    56Safari, thanks for all the information on the stereo system. I'm not a huge audiophile but I do like good sound. I sure should have looked at my whole system before I started wiring any of it.

    After you mentioned the crossovers I opened up the speaker box and there they were. They're about 3.5" square and a little over 1" thick. I searched for a place to mount them and found a perfect spot on the firewall, right above my gas pedal and below my relay bank. Since I don't want to drill any holes in the firewall I made a mounting plate that attaches to other stuff I have under there. I think I got it figured out and the wires look like they will all reach. Now I'm glad I ran wires all the way down for both the speakers and tweeters I hope I don't need to mount them near the doors for some reason....I don't know where that would be especially where they're accessible.


    I have a Kenwood double DIN touchscreen stereo model DDX 470 that I bought several years ago when I was building my console. Do I need an amplifier for the front speakers or is that what you were talking about above that could be added later? I didn't think I needed anything but the head unit. Here's the specs:
    General features:

    • DVD/CD receiver with AM/FM tuner
    • built-in internal amp (22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels)
    • 6.1" touchscreen with variable color button illumination
    • built-in Bluetooth for hands-free calling and audio streaming
    • Pandora control with iPhone, Android, and Blackberry
    • iPhone App Mode with limited control of apps like Netflix and YouTube
    • display function for Garmin "Streetpilot" navigation app for iPhone
    • fits double-DIN dash openings

    Audio/video features:

    • plays CDs, DVDs, and USB memory devices (see Hands-on Research for full capabilities)
    • 3-band parametric equalizer with 8 preset tone curves
    • high- and low-pass filters
    • subwoofer controls
    • speaker type setting

    Expandability:

    • iPod control: Kenwood cable required for full access to audio/video content
    • works with SiriusXM tuner (not included)
    • inputs: rear USB input, dual rear A/V inputs, rear-view camera input
    • outputs: A/V output, 6-channel preamp outputs (4-volt front, rear, subwoofer)


    If I wanted to install a subwoofer some day would I need an amplifier for that? Or do they have internal amps?



    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #125
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012

    Member #:530
    Location
    Santa Clarita, CA
    Posts
    1,793
    I'm glued to the latest wiring advancements Laszlo. Keep it up...and thank you (Safari) for the detail on today's stereo setups. I need to study that more as I will do the same as CNut is doing (when I get to that point with my Nomad build). Good stuff here!
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  6. #126
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    157
    You don't NEED an amp to power the front or rear speakers but some people choose to install them for better sound quality. The kenwood stereo you have puts out 22 watts RMS x 4 channels. The Polk DXI 6501 speakers you have can handle 10-100 watts RMS. and the DXI 691's can handle 2-100 RMS watts... Speakers typically like more RMS power than less as long as its within spec, and speakers usually sound better when they're at the higher range of their capable RMS power.... When speakers are underpowered and your listening at a lower volume level sometimes they can sound muddy and not as clear, usually if you're going over halfway on the volume level its not as noticeable. I've installed plenty of those polk speakers without amps and they do just fine. You can always add one down the road if you choose, they're not that hard to install.

    Subs typically require an amplifier, but some units are self powered and have the amp built in... But you would still need to run a 4 to 8 gauge wire to power the amp (gauge depends on power requirements) as well as an 18 gauge remote wire and a 8 gauge chassis ground... If you go with a sub I honestly can't recommend that 10" square kicker sub enough.. It fits in a small truck box and is easy to hide and sounds great for ALL genres of music.

    Here's a pic of my L7 in my 99 silverado, fits perfectly under the bench seat and just shy of being flush with the front of the seat when its down... the amp is tucked into the door pocket nicely.

    IMG_3376.JPG

  7. #127
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    157
    Also its important to note if you do buy a sub make sure you match your subwoofer and amplifier impedance properly for maximum power/performance and $$$ savings. A lot of subs now days are dual voice coil so its important to think about before you buy anything.. Here's a good article on wiring DVC's in both series and parallel.

    https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...iring-Tutorial

    The kicker L7 I run is a DVC with 4ohm at each coil, wired in series for 2 ohm.. powered by a rockford fosgate 500x1 channel @ 2 ohm amp

    https://www.crutchfield.com/S-RmtQI4...er-TS10L7.html - Kicker L7 (there's a new version out there now, but this is what I purchased)

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE...140_TE_3p_dp_1 - Rockford Fosgate amp - Awesome little amp, only measures 8.5"W x 6.8"L x 2"D. Each amp is bench tested before leaving factory and usually puts out significantly more RMS watts than advertised.. the test sheet that shipped with my amp showed it tested at 580watts x 1 channel @2ohms.

  8. #128
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,835
    Wow 56 Safari, you sure caused me a lot more work.

    Once I figured out where I could mount the crossovers I had to design and fab a bracket. I removed the relay bracket and added a flange to it so I could screw the crossover bracket to the flange. I then used the throttle cable end fitting to hold the lower part of the bracket in place. Seems like it's pretty solid but there's barely room for everything. It barely clears the throttle cable. None of this is visible under the dash unless you're laying on the floor.

    20190406_001.JPG

    20190406_002.JPG

    Attachment 9645

    20190406_020.JPG


    I honestly have no idea where I'd mount an amplifier. I'm thinking I may try it without one and see how it sounds. If it's as good as my factory Porsche or my wife's factory Infiniti stereo I'll be happy. If I need to add one I think it would have to go in the rear of the console and I'd have to add some wiring to get there. How big are these things?

    Another thing I did was replaced the connectors on my door locks. They use some crappy un-sealed blade-type connectors. Since there will possibly be water getting inside the doors I replaced them with WeatherPacks. I also eliminated a few wires and the purple wire is a signal wire to turn on an LED on my lock switch when the doors are locked.

    20190406_012.JPG
    Last edited by chevynut; 04-06-2019 at 06:37 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #129
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Member #:115
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    10,835
    Thanks for all the audio info you're sharing 56safari. If I were to add an amp for the front speakers, would it also drive the rear speakers? I assume a 2-channel would only drive two front speakers and a 4-channel would be needed to drive both front and rear speakers, correct? I understand that a subwoofer is kind of an independent thing and requires it's own amp.

    I checked Crutchfield and found several 4-channel amps. Why would you need a remote control for an amp?? If I were to install an amp now, what your you recommend that's small but decent quality and would drive both front and rear speakers? Cost isn't really a big factor. The only place I could mount it is behind the console box so is wire length a problem? I've wired the speakers with 18 gauge and the tweeters with 20 gauge. The wires that came with the speakers are a lot smaller. I thought that mattered for power. On the other hand, 45 watts is only 4 amps.
    Last edited by chevynut; 04-06-2019 at 07:00 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #130
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2016

    Member #:3018
    Posts
    157
    Wow, those brackets look great! Amps vary in size depending on what you want and how much you want to spend... When you're tight on space, Alpine makes several small format options that are a good balance between size and output power, easily hideable behind a dash or under a console.

    Alpine KTA-30FW 75 watts RMS x 4 channels - small footprint

    Alpine KTA-450 - 50 watts RMS x 4 channels - medium footprint

Page 13 of 61 FirstFirst ... 3111213141523 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •