Nomad final assembly

[chevynut]

Here's a couple I found that are really small, both 45W RMS. Do I really need more power? How do they compare to what you posted, and which do you think would be best for me?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAM....html?tp=35782

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP....html?tp=35782

I need something fairly narrow, probably under 6-7" but length isn't a big issue.

[56Safari]

I don't want to advocate spending more money, but I do think they make a difference.. But I also think that any of these small format options are an easy upgrade down the road if you're not happy. It's hard to figure it all out until you can factor in road noise, engine noise, etc...

I've personally installed the Alpine KTP-44A and KTP-44U and it does make a significant difference IMO... . I haven't used the Kenwood amp before and I'm having a hard time finding any reviews for it.

Keep in mind, if you're not planning on carrying passengers in the rear seat that often, you can bridge the amp into 2 channel mode and power only the front speakers from the amp which will give you 90 watts RMS x 2 channels for the alpine.

[chevynut]

56Safari, I think I've made a decision to do all the stereo upgrades now, not later. I talked to my son and he said definitely ad an amp and a sub. He has the same Kenwood head unit as mine except he has NAV and I don't. We discussed the fact that although I don't listen to my stereo loud, my big engine will be fairly loud and I will have the music turned up louder than I normally do. Also if I park it with the doors open I may want to crank it up a little.

So I've been researching all of this and I'm trying to get a handle on what I need to do. Everything from my front crossovers to the front speakers and tweeters is wired up so I think that's all done. I am not sure where to go from here.

Should I get one 5-channel amp that will drive all 4 speakers and sub, or one 4 channel for the front and rear speakers and a separate one for the sub? I'd rather not have more components than I need and it seems like separate ones are more space and cost. Here's one...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R60....html?tp=35808

Also, I've looked at powered subs and noticed they have some real compact ones that fit under seats, with built in amps. Are they worth considering? Like I said, I'm not looking for any heavy-duty thumping. Here's one that looks interesting...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P30....html?tp=64082

What's the difference between an 8" 500W sub and a 10" 500W sub? Isn't 300W enough? I guess I don't know what more power really gains you except a louder thump. I would probably put one behind the rear seats in my "package tray" area where the 6x9 speakers are. I don't want to take up all the room there. Seems like this one would work and is smaller...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206L7S...r-44L7S84.html

Do I need an enclosure for the sub? What is the difference between "vented" and "sealed" enclosures? This stuff is so complicated for someone like me who has never really looked at it. I like your enclosure and it may fit just right.

As far as amps, do these need to be accessible? I can put it/them under the rear seats if needed, instead of in the console where they would be harder to access.

Finally, do I need to run cables with RCA connectors from the head unit to the amp, or can I run regular wire? Is that what "pre-amp" or "speaker level" inputs means? Is one better than the other?

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...iring-Tutorial

The kicker L7 I run is a DVC with 4ohm at each coil, wired in series for 2 ohm.. powered by a rockford fosgate 500x1 channel @ 2 ohm amp

Isn't two coils at 4 ohms in series 8 ohms total? Or did you mean wired in parallel? Do you pick the amp first and then the sub, or the other way around?

Any more advice would be appreciated. I know it's a lot of questions but I'd like to get this sorted out so I can finish the wiring. thanks.

[TrifiveRichard]

Have you talked with Crutchfield reps, Laszlo? I have found them to be very helpful.

I have bought/installed a number of systems from them over the years. The last couple have been 100w rms/channel, 5 channel amp, separate front tweeters and sub (350 w rms). The DVR receiver was a Pioneer, although the one in the 1966 Chevy II is a Kenwood.

I’ve founf this combination is easy to install and sounds nice at low and high volumes.

[chevynut]

Have you talked with Crutchfield reps, Laszlo? I have found them to be very helpful.

No I haven't. However I did go to Car Toys some time ago before I bought my receiver and speakers and told them that I was looking for a decent quality system and that I was not an audiophile looking for the best of everything. I explained my desires and expectations and by the time the rep was done he had me in a $3000 system, not counting installation. And he said they had to install it. I told him he didn't listen to me when I walked in the door. I think I can put together a nice system for under $1000.

The last couple have been 100w rms/channel, 5 channel amp, separate front tweeters and sub (350 w rms).

Isn't 100W RMS per channel pretty high for the front speakers? Is 350W RMS enough for a sub?

If I wanted to use regular wires in a harness between the receiver and the amp to keep everything "clean", would I use the "speaker level" inputs on the amp? I don't know the difference between using the RCA cables and using the main receiver connector but I assume the RCA cables would be for pre-amp signals. Is one better than the other? I need to understand this so I can wrap up my console harness wiring.

[55 Rescue Dog]

I love great sound systems, but I already have two radio delete vehicles, and my 55 is an original delete car. I can save a ton of effort, weight, cash and I'll just wear ear buds. Some cars make many different sounds, noises, and sound like a rolling mechanical symphony, and you can hear every part of the car. Hotrods have built-in woofers, but I also use to think an AM rock station with a fader switch, and a reverb was cool.

[chevynut]

Okay, here's what I'm thinking....

Rockford Fosgate R600X5 Prime Series 5-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R60...te-R600X5.html





Stinger 6-channel RCA interconnect cords https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...er-SI4612.html



Not sure on sub, but probably either 8" or 10" Kicker L7 as suggested by 56Safari. Still have to understand the enclosures too, as well as the impedance.

So it looks like I need 4 gauge power wire for this setup. WOW.

I currently have 8 gauge from the alternator to starter/battery protected by a 175A fuse. Then I have 8 gauge from the starter to the power distribution area inside my console, where there are four 50 amp breakers and one 30A breaker. That section is also protected by a 175A fuse near the starter. It looks like I need to instead run 4 gauge from the starter to a power lug, then 8 gauge to the breakers and 4 gauge to an 80A fuse and back to the amp.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

[TrifiveRichard]

Isn't 100W RMS per channel pretty high for the front speakers? Is 350W RMS enough for a sub?

If I wanted to use regular wires in a harness between the receiver and the amp to keep everything "clean", would I use the "speaker level" inputs on the amp? I don't know the difference between using the RCA cables and using the main receiver connector but I assume the RCA cables would be for pre-amp signals. Is one better than the other? I need to understand this so I can wrap up my console harness wiring.[/QUOTE


considering power level, I prefer to have power in reserve, rather than turning up the volume and getting significant harmonic distortion. That’s also where the Dynamat, or Hushmat in my case,used liberally pays for its self. This is probably all a personal preference, but it works for me. FYI, the system I installed was about $2,200 from Crutchfield.

concerning connection the receiver to the amp channels, the shielded RCA cables are the only way to OMO. You get a cleaner signal without the added receiver output noise, and you don’t have to twist the pairs.

Considering the amp, the amp literature usually has the preferred routing, gauge and fuses, and often comes with it.

[chevynut]

Thanks Richard. I pretty much convinced myself that the shielded twisted pairs was the way to go. Thanks for the confirmation. Cost isn't a huge factor for me but like everyone else I don't want to piss away money for something I don't need or want. I want to be a bit conservative on power because I really don't want to resort to welder cable for wiring.

As for the sub should it face forward or backward, or does it matter? If I get a "truck" box it's angled close to the same as my rear seat. Maybe I should build a box so it fits exactly......not sure. Found this site that's pretty helpful:

https://www.mtx.com/library-vented-s...fer-enclosures

[TrifiveRichard]

Crutchfield recommended facing to the rear, something about the trunk volume helped the sound quality. Not sure exactly what they meant, but I mounted it that way.