Nomad final assembly

[chevynut]

Thanks Gmvette. It's definitely not a stock interior. I do have an interior build thread here showing the construction. Here's a couple more pics of the front

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This is my original rendering of my side panel design....

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And this is the covered cargo area and rear seat.....

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[56Safari]

I understand the L7 sub with the enclosure only has one pair of connections (one + and one -) at 2 ohms. I thought that's what I read.

My battery is behind the passenger rear tire. The positive side (2 gauge) goes to a jumper lug, then to a Moroso disconnect, then INSIDE the frame through conduit to the cowl area where it exits and goes to the starter. From the starter I'll have 4 gauge about 18-24" into the interior of the car. just behind the firewall. I could put a fuse on the engine block but it would be something like the 175A MIDI fuse on the alternator side.

I plan to use this block right at the firewall, inside the console. It will allow me to connect the 4 gauge and split it into a 4 gauge to the amp and an 8 gauge to the breakers. I think it's pretty small and I don't have a lot of space there.

Yes, the L7 loaded enclose that comes installed in the box is already pre-wired @ 2ohms and only has 1 terminal.

That looks/sounds like a good plan, I'm sure 18-24" will be fine.

The Rockford rep just got back with me and said you can mix and match the impedance on that amp using 4 ohms x 4 channel and 2 ohms x 1 channel.. So you should be good to go.

If you want help tuning the system down the road let me know.. I should be living in Denver later this year, I have my final interviews for this new job next week. We can set the low and high pass filters on the receiver to match the crossover points.. Place an omni mic inside the car and use pink noise to set the EQ and flatten everything out.

[chevynut]

Well I got the 4 gauge cables, terminals, RCA cables, and fuse block ordered. Waiting for input from 56Safari on the impedance issue before I order the amp. But at least I can get the re-wiring going when I get this stuff.

56Safari, I took a close look at the R600x5 amp and I don't see any impedance selector switches on any channels. Do most amps have them? It seems like you just get whatever you get when you hook up the speakers to each channel. Lower impedance means more power. At least that's what makes sense to me. I assume one could even hook up 8 ohm speakers and it will work, but not at full power.

[chevynut]

OOPS, sorry I just saw your reply when I posted. Thanks for the confirmation. Let me know when you come to Denver and maybe we can get together.

[56Safari]

Well I got the 4 gauge cables, terminals, RCA cables, and fuse block ordered. Waiting for input from 56Safari on the impedance issue before I order the amp. But at least I can get the re-wiring going when I get this stuff.

56Safari, I took a close look at the R600x5 amp and I don't see any impedance selector switches on any channels. Do most amps have them? It seems like you just get whatever you get when you hook up the speakers to each channel. Lower impedance means more power. At least that's what makes sense to me. I assume one could even hook up 8 ohm speakers and it will work, but not at full power.

The amp will detect the impedance and operate accordingly... you can hook up an ohm meter to your + and - connections on the speaker and it will read accordingly... In theory you can always hook up a higher ohm speaker and it will still function, but you can't hook up a lower ohm speaker than your amp is rated for (you can, but the amp will overheat almost immediately).

I know I mentioned it earlier but I'm not sure we really discussed it. You will need an 18 gauge "remote wire" going from the back of the Kenwood heat unit to the amplifier to switch it on/off when you turn the keys in the ignition... It's usually blue or blue/white and labeled remote coming out of the stereo harness

[chevynut]

I know I mentioned it earlier but I'm not sure we really discussed it. You will need an 18 gauge "remote wire" going from the back of the Kenwood heat unit to the amplifier to switch it on/off when you turn the keys in the ignition... It's usually blue or blue/white and labeled remote coming out of the stereo harness

Thanks....yes I saw that remote wire on the plug. Gotta get the amp ordered now.

[Gmvette]

I have a stereo system in my 57 Nomad that honesty I never use it. The BBC makes the music. My 65 Corvette has no radio at all. We use a wireless Bose feed with our phone on long rides. No wiring necessary and for our ears is excellent sound. In fact when I’m out in the garage it is always playing the oldies.

Still it is impressive with all the audio your Nomad is going to have, but how much will it actually be played?

Is there benefits to big sound systems in the concourse custom shows or is it a personal preference?

[chevynut]

Still it is impressive with all the audio your Nomad is going to have, but how much will it actually be played?
Is there benefits to big sound systems in the concourse custom shows or is it a personal preference?

I wanted a stereo in my Nomad, something better than a stock AM radio. I could have picked something that fit in the stock opening in the dash, that looked stock, but they sound like crap for the most part, and my car isn't anywhere near stock inside. I listen to the radio or CDs in all my vehicles, whether going around town or on trips. I don't play it loud most of the time.

I didn't intend to upgrade the setup this much but I figure why not do it now? I like the double DIN touchscreen since it fits in my console well and I think it looks nice. I just got convinced to install an amp and probably a subwoofer later. I'll have around $1100 in the whole works and compared to what I have in the car that's mousenuts. Most nice cars have good stereo systems.....mine will too.

[chevynut]

I'm trying to find a simple, small panel mount connector to connect my laptop to my ECU for monitoring and programming on the fly. The interface cable normally goes to the laptop serial port, which is 9 pins, but only 3 pins are actually used by the ECU. The Holley-supplied connector is 4 pin (but only 3 are used) and it's not panel mount. I want to be able to plug into it somewhere on or inside the console in a discrete location. I was looking at plugs and sockets like this which is similar to the one supplied with the ECU....




Then it occurred to me that an audio jack has 3 pins too. They're really small and I think one would work. Dakota Digital uses an audio cable to connect their PAC-2750 fan controller to the VHX computer. My only concern is that it might short two leads together during insertion that aren't supposed to short together. But I think the male pin is specifically designed to prevent that. Is there any reason not to use one for this application?

[56Safari]

I'm trying to find a simple, small panel mount connector to connect my laptop to my ECU for monitoring and programming on the fly. The interface cable normally goes to the laptop serial port, which is 9 pins, but only 3 pins are actually used by the ECU. The Holley-supplied connector is 4 pin (but only 3 are used) and it's not panel mount. I want to be able to plug into it somewhere on or inside the console in a discrete location. I was looking at plugs and sockets like this which is similar to the one supplied with the ECU....

Then it occurred to me that an audio jack has 3 pins too. They're really small and I think one would work. Dakota Digital uses an audio cable to connect their PAC-2750 fan controller to the VHX computer. My only concern is that it might short two leads together during insertion that aren't supposed to short together. But I think the male pin is specifically designed to prevent that. Is there any reason not to use one for this application?

The plugs are cheap enough you could always put a meter on one as you insert it to see if it shorts. Another option would be a 3 pin XLR connector, it's a bit larger but they will definitely not short out and the connectors lock into place when inserted.

Neutrik makes a large variety of cable connectors and chassis connectors

https://www.neutrik.com/en/products/audio/xlr