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Thread: Nomad final assembly

  1. #181
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I think I'm going to add a console box light (that was an oversight ), and a 12V cooling fan to draw air through the console to cool the Holley ECM and over the amp under the rear seat. The amp needs a minimum of 1" airspace above it and that's what I have. The amp is a lot thicker than I thought it would be at 2" and I thought I had more room under the rear seat. Building the mounting bracket for it was a pain since it pretty much had to sit on the floor, and I didn't want any screws going through the floorpan so it attaches to the rear seat bottom frame.

    I ordered a few auxiliary outlets with audio connections and USB so I can plug in an iphone, ipod or whatever and charge my phone. There's also a couple of switches I need to figure out a location for that are used to set the VHX computer, start a datalog in the ECM, and a valet switch for the alarm system. The alarm also has a blinking LED when it's armed so that has to go somewhere. Lots of little stuff like that to figure out. I don't think there's room for cupholders anywhere.
    Last edited by chevynut; 04-23-2019 at 11:08 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  2. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    I think I'm going to add a console box light (that was an oversight ), and a 12V cooling fan to draw air through the console to cool the Holley ECM and over the amp under the rear seat. The amp needs a minimum of 1" airspace above it and that's what I have. The amp is a lot thicker than I thought it would be at 2" and I thought I had more room under the rear seat. Building the mounting bracket for it was a pain since it pretty much had to sit on the floor, and I didn't want any screws going through the floorpan so it attaches to the rear seat bottom frame.

    I ordered a few auxiliary outlets with audio connections and USB so I can plug in an iphone, ipod or whatever and charge my phone. There's also a couple of switches I need to figure out a location for that are used to set the VHX computer, start a datalog in the ECM, and a valet switch for the alarm system. The alarm also has a blinking LED when it's armed so that has to go somewhere. Lots of little stuff like that to figure out. I don't think there's room for cupholders anywhere.

    Are you going to have separate charging and audio inputs for your phone? The reason I ask, in our passenger car while trying to charge the phone it wants to interrupt the Sirus radio. Maybe I’m just too stupid, and not setting it up correctly.

  3. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    This afternoon I got the front fuse panel all terminated and wired, and it was a lot easier than I expected it to be. I'm glad I reduced the size to 20 fuses because that gave me more room to route wires. The hard part was dealing with the larger wires and getting them all to fit underneath the panel. I realized that I went way over-kill with some wires like my ignition switch power wire because which hardly carries any current now, only to some relay coils. I did that in a few other places too. I'll probably use LED headlights but I wired it for H4 Halogen bulbs just in case. The LEDs only draw 1.1A on low beam and 1.5A on high beam when operated separately. At least I won't get much voltage drop.

    How big a relay are you using for the starter solenoid. I’m running a 50 amp relay triggered off the ignition switch to supply the starter solenoid full voltage, been ok so far. But now not sure..........

  4. #184
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gmvette View Post
    How big a relay are you using for the starter solenoid. I’m running a 50 amp relay triggered off the ignition switch to supply the starter solenoid full voltage, been ok so far. But now not sure..........
    All of my mini relays are SPDT and 50 amps on the NO side. These are the ones I'm using... https://www.waytekwire.com/item/7531...34-A0001-X032/. My micro relays are all 35 amp and I should have used more of them instead of the mini relays for some things. There's places I'm only switching a few milliamps.

    A starter solenoid only takes around 10-20 amps depending on the specific starter. I wired mine with 14 gauge from the relay to the solenoid.
    Last edited by chevynut; 04-24-2019 at 02:08 PM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #185
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gmvette View Post
    Are you going to have separate charging and audio inputs for your phone? The reason I ask, in our passenger car while trying to charge the phone it wants to interrupt the Sirus radio. Maybe I’m just too stupid, and not setting it up correctly.
    My stereo receiver has a TRS audio jack and a USB cable on it. I bought one of these to see if I could use it somehow to bring those connections to where I can use them.

    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #186
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    While your at it, unless your battery disconnect is quickly accessible, you might consider putting in a push button operated remote disconnect.

  7. #187
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    While your at it, unless your battery disconnect is quickly accessible, you might consider putting in a push button operated remote disconnect.
    Why? I have a Moroso disconnect switch near the battery behind the right rear tire if I want to disconnect the battery.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Why? I have a Moroso disconnect switch near the battery behind the right rear tire if I want to disconnect the battery.
    So you could immediately shut down your whole electrical system right from the drivers seat if needed, with a simple switch and a latching disconnect.

  9. #189
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    I am a little late to this discussion but your questioning the fuse strategy is spot on. I have a VA unit and the hot water solenoid is tied to the switched power and not properly fused. I have an older system with the hot water valve that remains powered when the heater is off and gets very hot. A shit design. As you would expect the solenoid failed last week and I had smoke and flames, the whole nine yards. No fuses blew.

    Right or wrong I have the valve mounted under my dash and was unable to reach it or put out the fire. Luckily after shutting things down it burned itself out before causing a major fire.

    They now sell a kit to replace that valve with a servo and eliminate the heat source, but still and unprotected 12v lead.

    A fire extinguisher is going to find its way into my trunk.

  10. #190
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    In this car I put the disconnect in easy reach right behind the seat, and can be reached from outside too. I added an easy to grab fire extinguisher after I found out I had been driving it a while with an unknown fuel leak. Every electrical connection is subject to an overheating potential, and it will NOT blow a fuse. I wish production cars had an emergency disconnect. Every machine I have worked on did. I also have a ignition kill switch in the center of the console I can hit if I let someone drive my car, and they do something stupid. This car only has 12 circuits on it though, and no computer. It's just a hot rod.
    IMG_5585.JPG1981 Z28 063.jpg
    Last edited by 55 Rescue Dog; 04-25-2019 at 04:25 PM.

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