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Thread: '57 210 Del-Ray 2 Door Sedan Build & Story

  1. #11
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear about your floorpan fitment situation. On mine, (with the stock floorpanel), it fits well with the AME center section. Here's some pics of my frame just for comparison...

    DSCN1211.jpg

    DSCN1215.jpg
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  2. #12
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    WagonCrazy -- thanks, looks like we have more or less the same setup as far as the frame goes . Any idea how much clearance you have on the passenger pans to the center section? I suspect I'll just need to bend that area up into compliance.

  3. #13
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    SR, I did some measuring today on my floor, which is not original and came from CARS (Sherman). It's a 2-piece floor and I don't have an AME center section but my mufflers are back there and they don't extend above or below the frame. The mufflers are 4" tall, the same as the AME rails.

    Putting a straightedge across the rear body mounts (last long brace) I get 4" up to the bottom of the brace in the driveshaft tunnel. Putting a straightedge across the bottom of the rocker pinch weld I get 7 3/8" at the rear brace, and 6 7/8" at the next long brace forward. Hope that helps you figure out the problem.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
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    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    SR, I did some measuring today on my floor, which is not original and came from CARS (Sherman). It's a 2-piece floor and I don't have an AME center section but my mufflers are back there and they don't extend above or below the frame. The mufflers are 4" tall, the same as the AME rails.

    Putting a straightedge across the rear body mounts (last long brace) I get 4" up to the bottom of the brace in the driveshaft tunnel. Putting a straightedge across the bottom of the rocker pinch weld I get 7 3/8" at the rear brace, and 6 7/8" at the next long brace forward. Hope that helps you figure out the problem.

    Cool -- I'm stuck in Chicago until tomorrow evening, but I'll check it out as soon as I get home and see where the problem is. As I mentioned in the e-mail, it does "look" as if my center is squished down a bit, to the extent that I think if the floor pan were set on a level surface, the rear "toe board" area would pretty much be on the ground at the level of the rocker pinch weld. Those measurements should help me get a good idea of where it's out of alignment. All of the mount holes line up, so I'll be able to at least bolt it in place to make any adjustments.

  5. #15
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    Chevynut -- I wasn't exactly sure how you did your measurements. For your first measurement -- did you place the straight edge along the bottom of the brace itself, so that it measured from the tunnel to what would be the top of the mount itself, or did you place it along the mount plate?

    For the others referencing the pinch weld -- how did you deal with the frame being in the way to get a reference? At first I was thinking the pinch weld hung below the frame and I could just use a 2x4 or something underneath and measure up from the center, but I quickly discovered the frame is lower, so I wasn't sure if you just measured it against the frame position or if you did something else.

    For the rear most brace, I measured 5" from the top of the AME rails to the bottom of the tunnel brace. The next brace forward measured at 4.5" to the top of the AME, and about 8 3/4" to the bottom of the frame.

    To make matters worse, I went and measured what was left of my original floor. I measured the rear foot area depth in reference to the seat decks and the transmission tunnel and everything was spot on within 1/16" of an inch for all of my comparative measurements. I even measured the depth of the foot pan relative the bottom of the brace that sits just behind it and it was spot on as well, so I'm rather stumped here. The new pan design looks exactly the same as the original, nothing seems to be stamped to a noticeably different shape or depth. If it weren't for the fact that most of these braces are completely destroyed and collapsed at the mount locations on my other body, I'd try to set that down on the frame and see what happens.

    My only thinking is that the entire floor at the center brace is bent downward in the tunnel area, which is throwing off the angle of the pans causing them to tilt downwards and hence the interference -- however, everything looks "normal" as best I can tell. Perhaps I'll try to measure the angle of the tunnel itself and compare to my original floor and see if it looks like it's dipped in that region. If all else fails, I'll just try to get the floor jack under this brace and see if I can bend it up enough to get the clearance I need.

    Here's a shot looking down the transmission tunnel sitting on the transmission crossmember. Notice how close even the brace is to the AME center? I wonder if WagonCrazy could get me a similar shot on his car for reference...



    Offset view of the drivers side:



    Looking forward from the rear -- here you can see how each "foot" area behind that center brace dips down below the brace and sits on the AME rails. Even my original floor dips below the brace, so the stamping seems "normal" -- i'm just not sure if it's in the right position -- ie, if that brace is too flat and not high enough in the center.





    EDIT: I just thought of something -- if the tunnel itself is "flattened" causing the interference -- I imagine it would have pushed the tunnel walls outwards from each other. I'll try measuring the distance between the tunnel walls on both the new and original floor tomorrow and see if theres any noticeable difference.
    Last edited by SonicRaT; 06-30-2017 at 12:43 AM.

  6. #16
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Good Pics. I'll try to get under my Nomad and get some similar pics and measurements.
    Maybe later today or tomorrow. I have to move some stuff around to get it up in the air and then get under it.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  7. #17
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SonicRaT View Post
    Chevynut -- For your first measurement -- did you place the straight edge along the bottom of the brace itself, so that it measured from the tunnel to what would be the top of the mount itself, or did you place it along the mount plate?
    I put the straightedge directly on the bottom of the brace from body mount to body mount. The body is on jack stands...no frame in the way.

    For the others referencing the pinch weld -- how did you deal with the frame being in the way to get a reference?
    See above.

    At first I was thinking the pinch weld hung below the frame and I could just use a 2x4 or something underneath and measure up from the center, but I quickly discovered the frame is lower, so I wasn't sure if you just measured it against the frame position or if you did something else.
    You could measure from the bottom of the frame to the pinch weld, then from the bottom of the frame to the brace. Subtract.

    For the rear most brace, I measured 5" from the top of the AME rails to the bottom of the tunnel brace. The next brace forward measured at 4.5" to the top of the AME, and about 8 3/4" to the bottom of the frame.
    Since I don't have a frame with the AME center section to measure, I don't know how to usethose measurements. The AME rails should be about 1/4" from the top of the frame. We actually set them 1/4" ABOVE the bottom of the frame. The frame is 4.5" tall and the AME rails are 4". I think you should be measuring to see if your brace is bent.


    My only thinking is that the entire floor at the center brace is bent downward in the tunnel area, which is throwing off the angle of the pans causing them to tilt downwards and hence the interference
    That's what I think is going on. However, 1/2" seems like a lot.


    Here's a shot looking down the transmission tunnel sitting on the transmission crossmember. Notice how close even the brace is to the AME center?
    "Close" is okay.....touching isn't.

    Several other guys have used the AME center section or their own homebrew versions of it in stock frames and AME has built hundreds of them (though the frame itself is different), and nobody's reported any problems like this so I think it's your floor that's a little off. I think your idea of pushing the brace up at the driveshaft tunnel would work to fix the problem if it will bend there. I'll be interested to see how Wagoncrazy's looks. I hate to sound like a typical supplier, but "nobody else has reported this problem".
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    I put the straightedge directly on the bottom of the brace from body mount to body mount. The body is on jack stands...no frame in the way.
    That'd do it!


    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Since I don't have a frame with the AME center section to measure, I don't know how to usethose measurements. The AME rails should be about 1/4" from the top of the frame. We actually set them 1/4" ABOVE the bottom of the frame. The frame is 4.5" tall and the AME rails are 4". I think you should be measuring to see if your brace is bent.
    I'll be trying to use the top of the frame as a reference for the brace position to measure against my original floor by placing a straight edge across in those locations and comparing to where the AME "would" be. If I can't get a good comparison that way, I'll pull the floor off the frame and try to measure it as you did and see what I come up with.


    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    "Close" is okay.....touching isn't.
    It does just slightly touch on the drivers side, you can barely see it in the offset view looking toward the rear.

    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Several other guys have used the AME center section or their own homebrew versions of it in stock frames and AME has built hundreds of them (though the frame itself is different), and nobody's reported any problems like this so I think it's your floor that's a little off. I think your idea of pushing the brace up at the driveshaft tunnel would work to fix the problem if it will bend there. I'll be interested to see how Wagoncrazy's looks. I hate to sound like a typical supplier, but "nobody else has reported this problem".
    I'm pretty sure we're in consensus that it's not a problem with the frame, but with this stupid floor. The trick is figuring out where exactly the floor is out of spec to get it back where it needs to be. That's why I started comparing the stamping depth and things to my original floor in hopes that there would be something obviously different, but it seems to be rather subtle at the moment.

  9. #19
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    Notching/modifying the floor pan looks like the best option to me. I would guess if you called Art Morrison they would say the same thing. I see it lightly mentioned in their installation instructions. That seems too happen on other stuff I have bought I thought was to supposed to fit, only to find out you have whack something off or modify to make it fit. They don't like to print ALL the instructions.

  10. #20
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    For reference there are several good body/chassis assembly tips in their manual.
    http://artmorrison.com/instructions/...tructions1.pdf

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