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Thread: Wire harness coverings

  1. #11
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    Hard to see in this pic, but just inside firewall I have 2 electrical seal-tight electrical fittings with 1/2 inch hose connected to them exiting through the top of the 1/4in aluminum trans tunnel top, going to the rear and front of the car. Only thing stronger would have been to use conduit.
    1981 Z28 065.jpg1981 Z28 064.jpg

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Rescue Dog View Post
    Hard to see in this pic, but just inside firewall I have 2 electrical seal-tight electrical fittings with 1/2 inch hose connected to them exiting through the top of the 1/4in aluminum trans tunnel top, going to the rear and front of the car. Only thing stronger would have been to use conduit.
    1981 Z28 065.jpg1981 Z28 064.jpg
    I never really looked myself, but most of the car runs off of only 16 or so wires from the fuse/control panel. It's about as simple as it can get with the Ron Francis Bare Bonz panel I used.

  3. #13
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    I used the Summit Racing brand black braided split sleeving on my last project car, and will use it again on my '57. The black plastic corrugated stuff has a dated look to it, and has largely fallen out of favor by car builders, particularly the high end builders.

  4. #14
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Doesn't the braided sleeving allow moisture and dirt to go through it easily? Seems like it would be something I should use in the engine compartment where it's visible, but I'm not sure about where it's barely seen or not seen at all.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Doesn't the braided sleeving allow moisture and dirt to go through it easily? Seems like it would be something I should use in the engine compartment where it's visible, but I'm not sure about where it's barely seen or not seen at all.
    I don't know about the "easily" part, the braiding is pretty tight. Why is the possibility of dirt and moisture intrusion an issue? It's not like you're running bare wire in there. The OEM's use braided sleeving, so it can't be a problem. If you're that concerned about it, completely wrap the wires in electrical tape or one long heat shrink, then slip the braiding over it.
    Last edited by Bitchin'57; 07-19-2017 at 06:44 AM.

  6. #16
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    I just ordered some split loom off of Amazon. Several different diameters.
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    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  7. #17
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    I like the looks of the braided split loom as posted by wagoncrazy... but I'm curious. Is there a table or 'rule of thumb' for how many typical automotive wires can be installed in the various sizes?? ie. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" etc??

  8. #18
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    So how do you deal with an engine harness that has a lot of wires exiting it and it gets smaller toward the front of the engine? How do the wires exit the loom? Also, is there a way to make a tee that looks decent? That's what I like about the convoluted loom, you can easily make a tee in it.

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    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    I like the looks of the braided split loom as posted by wagoncrazy... but I'm curious. Is there a table or 'rule of thumb' for how many typical automotive wires can be installed in the various sizes?? ie. 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" etc??
    Not really, especially with assorted diameters of wires. You could just see how many wire ends would fit through a 1/2 inch washer etc. Or just tape a few together and measure the diameter.

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