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Thread: Hydraboost or 13 inch disc to upgrade braking

  1. #21
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Thing is, the pedal ratio you can achieve without creating binding in the linkage is limited. On a 55-57, a flat mount booster or a manual setup is a setup that works well both with the geometry and with potential brake line pressure with the stock 6:1 ratio. An angled mount lends itself to a 4:1 ratio.
    That's probably true, but maybe Bill's simplest fix would be to simply change the booster mounting angle and go to a higher pedal ratio. That's why I asked where it is now.

    100 pounds pedal force is a lot. I think this is panic stop territory, not normal driving territory.
    Yes it is quite a bit for one leg. But I think what Bill is trying to do is address those panic stops since he's trying to lock up the tires. At least that's what I understand. He said the MAXIMUM pressure he can get is 800 PSI. I'll bet he's applying a lot of force to the pedal to get that.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  2. #22
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    More info....the C4 spec I quoted of 1250 PSI with 100 pounds of pedal force is using a 3.5:1 pedal ratio and a 7/8" bore master cylinder with a 9.4" single diaphragm booster.

    That means the force on the MC piston is 1087 pounds. The force on the pedal pushrod is 350 pounds. So the vacuum booster is providing over 3X boost.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
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    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #23
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Thing is, the pedal ratio you can achieve without creating binding in the linkage is limited. On a 55-57, a flat mount booster or a manual setup is a setup that works well both with the geometry and with potential brake line pressure with the stock 6:1 ratio. An angled mount lends itself to a 4:1 ratio.

    You also can work with master cylinder bore size to optimize this. More pedal ratio = more line pressure but more pedal travel. Smaller master cylinder bore = more line pressure and more pedal travel. This for a given caliper bore.

    100 pounds pedal force is a lot. I think this is panic stop territory, not normal driving territory.
    How does one validate "100 pounds of pedal force", calculation or with an instron?

  4. #24
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCW View Post
    How does one validate "100 pounds of pedal force", calculation or with an instron?
    You could put some sort of scale between the pedal and your foot...like a bathroom scale or something similar that would fit and goes to 100 pounds. Or you could put a 2x4 on the pedal with a bathroom scale on top of that and sit in the seat and do a bench press. Maybe a hydraulic jack could be used pressing on the seat.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #25
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    You guys are right, it's not an easy deal to get real data on if you want to do it the hard way.

    But you can get real data on the brake line pressure, and knowing all the other variables you can come up with something on a non-boosted system. This would take the boost out of the situation, which is a variable that's harder to nail down.

    My logic says that for you to put 100 pounds on the pedal with your foot, you need to use all or most of your strength, and you have to apply a similar reaction force to apply this force. Sitting in a driving position, this means you have to pull on the steering wheel with that same 100 pounds of force because there's not much else to react to that 100 pounds from your foot. Yeah you can do it, but you probably can't sit in the shop and do it every time unless you're a big strong guy. The 125 pound wife can't.

  6. #26
    Registered Member Bihili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Yeah you can do it, but you probably can't sit in the shop and do it every time unless you're a big strong guy. The 125 pound wife can't.
    She doesn't drive it that much but the brakes are the reason why.
    On a side note, my second 57 project (cruiser) is a cheaper build but has the 11 inch disc and hyrdoboost with the LS engine but it is 3 or 4 years from completion.
    I could rob the hydroboost from it but CPP has a sale on their 13 inch disc brakes this weekend and I may go that route first.
    Bill 1957-427-177-6-410

  7. #27
    Registered Member Bihili's Avatar
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    Follow up:
    Installed CPP 13 inch disc and their new caliper on the front. The rear twelve bolt drums were not changed.
    Wow what a HUGE difference and now have good panic brake stopping. The other change is the vacuum pump regulator was removed so the pump runs continuously and produces 20 pounds of vacuum to the dual 8 inch booster.
    Bill 1957-427-177-6-410

  8. #28
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    I'm way late here, but I got a tip from someone and found it to be true that the cheapest brake pads you can buy stop the best! The only downfall is they sure do dirty the front wheels fast. I have GM older style discs and I increased my pedal ratio. With the pedal as it is, if I try hard I can get the pedal to the floor, but the brakes lock up before getting that far. I'm comfortable driving it with no booster or hydro.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

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