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Thread: Back to my fuel vapor in the lines.

  1. #101
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Last edited by chevynut; 03-15-2018 at 11:33 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
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  2. #102
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    What do you have between the pump and the tank? What size fittings?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #103
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    3/8" fittings, 8" 3/8 hose, 8' 3/8" steel line, and 8" 3/8 hose to a 3/8 T with the pressure gauge. Steel line has, I don't know if there is a name for it, but the ends like a bubble from starting to make a double flare so the hose is tight.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  4. #104
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Sounds like you have all the right fittings, if none of them have restrictions. If everything has at least 5/16" ID, which is about the ID of a 3/8" steel line, you should be good. How did you tap into the tank, out of curiosity? Notice that with a continuous smooth AN6 line the chart says you'll get around 1PSI drop in the length of the car at your max flowrate. I'm not sure that a drop in pressure really affects a carburetor that much.....all you have to do is keep the bowls full.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #105
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    You got me on tapping the tank. I used the same standard pick up but 3/8. Once the line is primed I don't think it should make a difference due to the siphoning effect. I was surprised at how fast the pump primed itself. The fuel that was still in the front of the line going to the clear filter came in almost instantly, certainly less than 1 second anyway. If I would use the drain plug at the bottom of the tank, it's kind of small and I'm afraid all that will fit is a 1/4 inch fitting, and it looks like fine thread. Maybe the whole thing is not an issue. It's been fine so far, but I haven't gone a 1/4 mile.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  6. #106
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    I don't know what to think of this pump? I don't know if this is new or it did it before, but at maybe 1/4 throttle at most, the pressure goes down to 4psi. But I did a few 1/4 miles and it went down below 4, maybe 3, but the engine didn't skip a beat. I got home and put a jumper wire to leave it running to see if it lasts 3 or 4 hours. At idle with the bypass clamped off and sitting for a few minutes it started to loose pressure. It started to flutter a little, then a lot. Took the clamp off the bypass hose and it went up at least 1/2 psi and stayed a steady. Looks like it was starting to boil without the bypass. The next couple months will test it good since we don't get summer gas until June.

    Doing a search in the EPA, I found that they raised the REID pressure in a lot of TN counties. A lot of people are going to be boiling, and it goes against the EPA's normal ways because gasoline vapors pollute much more than combusted gasoline. Maybe it's an attempt to rid the country of carbureted vehicles?
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  7. #107
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    Since my last post on this, I sent the flaky Holley pump back. The pressure kept changing. I replaced it with a Carter. Nice unit and very nice sound isolation included. The whole thing hangs from 3 rubber mounts and there is no metal to metal contact, unless the rubber mounts wear out. It actually circulates the fuel through the motor to keep it cool, the holley didn't.

    Now the bad. It only puts out 4.5psi. Even dead headed with a gauge in the line from the pump. Good part is that unlike the holley that dropped pressure when going WOT, this one stays at 4.5psi. The specs at Summit say 4.5 to 8psi and Carter is sticking to it. They say if it's deadheaded and putting out 4.5psi and still putting out 4.5psi at WOT, it's within specs.

    But this doesn't seem to be a problem, it's running great at 4.5psi. Today it was about 75F and with winter gas I took it on the highway about ten miles at 80mph (street tires), stopped at an exit and in a hot parking lot left it idle in gear for ten minutes. Temp went up over 210F. Drove 100 feet to the on ramp and WOT, didn't skip a beat. That combination would have had it starving for fuel big time with the mechanical pump boiling the fuel.

    I'm still in the "I told you so" stage but I doubt I'll get anyone to admit they were off base and I was right all along.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  8. #108
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    Glad it works for you.

    You're right in a way, what you had wasn't working, and now what you have is working. But something was amiss with your mechanical pump setup, somewhere. They don't ALL boil the fuel!

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Glad it works for you.

    You're right in a way, what you had wasn't working, and now what you have is working. But something was amiss with your mechanical pump setup, somewhere. They don't ALL boil the fuel!
    Oh my God Rick! You are one stubborn guy. Did you see the video of the cars coming in the speed shop with the same exact problem? No kidding they ALL don't boil the fuel! Do all cars with automatic transmissions have problems in the first 10,000 miles? No, but some do. Do all engines start burning oil for no apparent reason? No, but some do. Do all tires go flat due to a leak in the rim? No, but some do. With all the info I gave, especially when I said over and over and over that it has to do with heat, you just kept ignoring the symptoms and drawing your own conclusion, which was WRONG, in a very BIG way. Be a man and admit it.
    I was "right in a way", what a joke. What I did was diagnose a very rare problem and found a way to fix it. Anyone can find the common problems that happen in all cars.
    Uh oh, I may have gone too far, my head is having trouble fitting through doorways. LOL
    Last edited by 55 Tony; 04-03-2018 at 05:31 PM.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  10. #110
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    It's a lot easier to diagnose a problem with a car right in front of you than to have someone describe symptoms, change them, feed bits of information at a time, and ask someone to diagnose it over the internet. I agree with Rick that something wasn't right with your fuel system and you never really did figure out the true root cause. You changed too many things at one time to say precisely what was causing the problem. There's probably guys in your area with carbs and mechanical fuel pumps using the same exact gas that don't have the same problem....so why not?

    Yes it looked like the fuel was "boiling" in your pump and/or fuel lines and you fixed it by changing to an electric pump. But can you say exactly WHY it was "boiling"? I personally don't know if you can based on all the things you changed. Was the pump too hot? Were you pulling a vacuum on the fuel line? Was your fuel bad? Why was the fuel still boiling on the pressure side of the pump? Or was the line to the pump hot enough to vaporize the fuel?

    Anyhow, I'm glad you got it fixed too.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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