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Thread: C-clip eliminator for big end 12 bolt

  1. #21
    Registered Member chasracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    A Dana 60 is the way to go in my opinion. Factory Ford stuff is pretty weak, unless you brace housing and buy a aftermarket locker and N case.
    Those are nice pieces but most don't know how to brace the rear correctly and the N case, while certainly the stoutest of the stock stuff are tough to find. There's a SA Workbench book on the Ford 9's that gives a lot more information about the stockers along with setting them up. Dana 60's are great, just too damned heavy. We have one in the Corvette and so far, so good other than the frickin leaks we keep chasing.
    Remember the "13"


  2. #22
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    Biggest thing on the 9" is the factory trac lock is weak. Use something better from the aftermarket and it will work fine. I don't think you need a brace or an N case with typical street engine hp, unless you have a track only setup with slicks. And if it's track only you can use a spool and have no problem there.

    Remember that the Nascar Cup cars use a 9" with a locker, and they have 850 hp - and the rear axle has to last 500 miles of applying that power twice a lap.

  3. #23
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    We put a Dana 60 in a '55 gasser frame we built, and it's a huge piece of iron.....and heavy. Seems like it's overkill for most applications. Unless you had one laying around (like this guy did) I can't see buying one over a 9" Ford. I understand the Ford rearend offers a ton of gear ratios, lots of aftermarket parts, and it's easy to rebuild the pumpkin (unlike a 12-bolt). Looks like the Dana 60 is the same design at the 12-bolt GM rear with a rear cover. I'd go with a 9" if I wanted a versatile, strong solid axle rear. But I don't know a lot about what's available.

    20150211_012.JPG
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    With Toms Impala ends your brakes fit.
    I highly recommend Toms KA axles I have them in my 55, the 35 spline ones. Affordable and high quality stuff.
    By the way, I don't know if this is new or old news, but Toms is up for sale.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  5. #25
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    I am not surprised I first heard about him in car mags in the 70s.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I am not surprised I first heard about him in car mags in the 70s.
    Actually I just found out that Tom passed away in January, but the business was up for sale before that.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  7. #27
    Registered Member chasracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Biggest thing on the 9" is the factory trac lock is weak. Use something better from the aftermarket and it will work fine. I don't think you need a brace or an N case with typical street engine hp, unless you have a track only setup with slicks. And if it's track only you can use a spool and have no problem there.

    Remember that the Nascar Cup cars use a 9" with a locker, and they have 850 hp - and the rear axle has to last 500 miles of applying that power twice a lap.
    That's correct but it's a floater type rear and the locker is a billet unit - not exactly the stuff you're going to drop in a street/strip car for fun - unless someone happens to had you one!
    Remember the "13"


  8. #28
    Registered Member chasracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    We put a Dana 60 in a '55 gasser frame we built, and it's a huge piece of iron.....and heavy. Seems like it's overkill for most applications. Unless you had one laying around (like this guy did) I can't see buying one over a 9" Ford. I understand the Ford rearend offers a ton of gear ratios, lots of aftermarket parts, and it's easy to rebuild the pumpkin (unlike a 12-bolt). Looks like the Dana 60 is the same design at the 12-bolt GM rear with a rear cover. I'd go with a 9" if I wanted a versatile, strong solid axle rear. But I don't know a lot about what's available.



    20150211_012.JPG
    I had one guy tell me that you can now build a Dana 60 for about the same cost as a 9" - I haven't tried to verify that but I do know that if you get one built right, it's damn near bullet proof. But the weight is the killer deal to me. We are always trying to stay as light as possible and if this Corvette hadn't come with a Dana, it wouldn't be our choice.

    BTW, is that a MR2 Spyder sitting there in the picture? We have one just like it sitting in our garage, same color even.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by chasracer View Post
    I had one guy tell me that you can now build a Dana 60 for about the same cost as a 9" - I haven't tried to verify that but I do know that if you get one built right, it's damn near bullet proof. But the weight is the killer deal to me. We are always trying to stay as light as possible and if this Corvette hadn't come with a Dana, it wouldn't be our choice.

    BTW, is that a MR2 Spyder sitting there in the picture? We have one just like it sitting in our garage, same color even.
    I have never spent more than 500 dollars building a Dana 60, that's including custom axles and a 35 spline power lock. Om the other hand I spent a grand building a 9.3 Olds. Most of that was a rebuilt locker from Fabcraft.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I have never spent more than 500 dollars building a Dana 60, that's including custom axles and a 35 spline power lock.
    Could you kindly route me in the proper direction for that? I'm assuming that doesn't include the housing, how about brakes? (drums are fine with me)
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

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