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Thread: Need body measurement from nomad owner

  1. #1
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    Need body measurement from nomad owner

    Looking to see if anyone building a nomad can help me get a measurement. I'm trying to cage the interior of my car so I can lift the body off of the frame and put it on my rotisserie. My drivers side interior and exterior quarter has extensive rot, its separated from both the outer and inner rocker, and I would like to get it as close to where it should be before I weld in the braces.

    The measurement I need is inside to inside of the door jamb. 16" down from the centerline of the interior most bolt hole on the striker plate. Below are photos to illustrate what I'm looking for, and help will be greatly appreciated.

    I have worked on getting the jamb/inner quarter back to where I think it should be with clamps, and I came up with 64.5" inside to inside.






  2. #2
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Mine is 64 3/8" there.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #3
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    Awesome, I'll massage it a little more. Thanks Laszlo.

  4. #4
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Mine measures 64 1/8 inches.

    57 Nomad
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the help guys, I think that got me in the ballpark for where I need to be. I was running out of longer pieces scrap steel so I didn't get to cage it in exactly how I wanted to.... its ugly but I think it will suffice. I may add some smaller braces off of the existing pipes in the door jambs , and at the X brace connecting the B pillars/inner rear quarters to secure things a little more.

    I was also debating if I should tie the lower door jambs together in the front with a brace? Maybe the firewall / toe board is good enough?

    [/url]IMG_0911 by james montgomery, on Flickr[/IMG]

  6. #6
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    If it's structurally sound there, no need - but if it's not, you need a crossbrace there too. You should be able to judge that.

  7. #7
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Looks to me like you'll be replacing the entire floor pan? If so I'd definately put a cross brace at front of door jams...between them as low as you can get it (and still get be able to get the new pan in).
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  8. #8
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    Yes, I've got a new one piece floor pan with the inner rockers attached, I'm also replacing the outer rockers as well. Before any of that happens though, I will need to address the inner quarter panels where they spot weld to the floor pan in the back seat. I'm trying to keep the bracing up about 3-4 inches so I have have room to fix any of the adjoining panels if need be.

    Primary goal right now is to just get the body on the rotisserie and the frame out the door so I can move it around the shop. I'm in the middle of a mild shop renovation (insulation, sheetrock, electrical) so I can actually get some work done in the shop next winter. I've finished the walls, I just need the car to be mobile so I can hang the sheetrock on the ceiling.

  9. #9
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    What's that piece of metal your tape measure is sitting on? Looks like something that was under the front seat.

    BTW, I personally wouldn't replace a floor on a rotisserie. I would put the floor on the frame, bolt it down, and set the body on it once you've removed the old floor and inner rockers and fixed the metal that surrounds the new floor. If the outer rockers are even part-way solid I'd leave them in place until the floor is in. Then I'd replace them last.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    What's that piece of metal your tape measure is sitting on? Looks like something that was under the front seat.

    BTW, I personally wouldn't replace a floor on a rotisserie. I would put the floor on the frame, bolt it down, and set the body on it once you've removed the old floor and inner rockers and fixed the metal that surrounds the new floor. If the outer rockers are even part-way solid I'd leave them in place until the floor is in. Then I'd replace them last.

    That is where the heat and A/C comes into the car on the Pontiacs, its a completely different floor pan, the front seam seam is halfway up the toe panel ( I'm going to need to figure that part out as well for the floor replacement). You can see the heater core in this closeup.




    I definitely plan to replace the floor pan in the way you describe. My plan was to put the car on the rotisserie first so I can move it around my shop while I finish installing the new LED lighting and sheet rock for the ceiling. I was also thinking it would be easier to cut the floor out while it was on the rotisserie, as well as be easier to repair the inner quarter panels. Do you think that I should leave it on the frame instead and cut the floor and repair the inner quarters while its still bolted down? ( I installed hydraulic rams on my rotisserie, so I was also planning to use it so I can raise and lower the body onto the chevy frame while installing the floor pan. I'm a one man operation). was also planning on leaving the rockers as well, at least the passenger side.

    I got a few things done today, I removed the rear bumpers. I had to sawzall every bolt on the rear bumpers, and I still have one bolt left before I can remove the drivers side bumper bracket. My realization that I overpaid for a parts car is setting in




    I was also able to get all of the glass out of the car. Unfortunately I slightly bent the bottom piece of stainless trim on the passenger side front window upon removal, I slipped and fell while I was removing it and wasn't able to let go in time. The screws holding the trim for rear windows are rusted in, so I will wait and remove those once I dial in a system for drilling out / removing the screws.


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