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Thread: Brake conversion

  1. #11
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    Avoid the disc brake conversions based on the 68-72 Chevelle rotors as they move the wheel mounting surfaces out by 7/8" per side. These tend to cause tire rubbing problems on lowered cars while turning if the wheel offset isn't corrected to account for the wider mounting width. There are better solutions out there that don't move the wheels out nearly as much.
    Can you name / list a solution that you consider 'better'??

  2. #12
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_L View Post
    Everyone is beating around the bush here as far as giving you much in the way of facts.

    The "baseline" conversion uses 11" Chevelle/Camaro rotors and calipers on the stock spindles. As said, the Chevelle rotor pushes the wheel outboard by 7/8" which may be a tire rub concern.

    A similar conversion that won't push the wheels out is a "zero offset" kit for stock spindles. It uses a separate hub, usually one from a 61-68 full size Chevy, a "hat" type rotor usually the rear rotor for a 79 TransAm, and the Chevelle/Camaro calipers. It's an 11" rotor.

    A higher end conversion for stock spindles is a Wilwood setup. They offer them with 11", 12", and 13" rotors, and either 4 piston or 6 piston fixed calipers.

    Dropped spindles don't use the Chevelle rotors. The baseline package is 10.5" Malibu rotors and calipers. You can get upgrades for the Heidts and Ridetech spindles, but some of the others can't be upgraded.

    Thanks Rick! That's the information I was hoping to see, and possibly what the OP desired as well...

  3. #13
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BamaNomad View Post
    Can you name / list a solution that you consider 'better'??
    No I can't, can you? I just know there are several of them out there and I have personal experience with the problematic Chevelle rotors. Lots of guys have rubbing problems with them when turning, and the car doesn't even have to be dropped to experience it. If the suspension compresses enough to "simulate" a 3" or so drop, the tires can rub at full lock. You can run into that turning hard into an elevated driveway, or something similar. It also depends on the width of the tires and the offset of the wheels.

    The point is, why mess with them when they widen the mounting surface so much and there are many known better options? Others here like Rick have a lot more experience than I do with disc brake conversions, as all of my recent tri5 work has been with C4 setups.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


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  4. #14
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172693

    "Just getting my car back together and have a problem. I installed a CPP 5557SWBK-D with a 12-UG 2" drop upgrade kit. Running 225/50-17 tire on 17X7 4.5 backspace American Racing wheels. They are rubbing when I turn the wheels and I don't think there is anyway I can get the car aligned due to mounting alignment heads. The combination of the offset of the knuckles and the Chevelle style rotors moved the wheel to far out. Any suggestions? Will I have to replace knuckles or just rotors or install a different kit?"

    There's lots of posts like this complaining of rubbing problems with the Chevelle rotors. Note also that this is on dropped spindles, so Rick's statement that they're not used on dropped spindles is incorrect.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #15
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    If you go in for a custom fit suit and they don't measure you for it, how will it ever fit you. My particular, "beating around the bush" was to determine ALL possible scenarios so what he purchased fit forever.
    Last edited by NickP; 05-29-2018 at 08:47 AM.

  6. #16
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    Chevynut, the CPP 5557SWBK-D brake kit doesn't use Chevelle rotors - it has 13" rotors. On the other hand they also claim it moves the wheels in 1-1/8" (but doesn't say compared to what).

    So the moral of that story is not "don't use Chevelle rotors", it's "don't buy from CPP" because they misrepresented their product. I won't buy anything from CPP any more because of that, as well as their quality and customer service issues.

    Nick, not rapping your response, it's just that the thread was starting have a lot of replies and few facts.

    At least my reply got some discussion started, even if it's not helping the OP.

    Also there are other choices besides the ones I listed. I just tried to hit the highlights.

  7. #17
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    This info is from CPP. I don't know if it's correct or not.

    http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/165598/

    This is a list of wheel offsets for the 55-57 cars. All measurements where taken from the wheel mounting surface to the center of the lower ball joint using a surface plate and height gauge. Many companies claim different measurements for the exact same rotor and spindle combination. If in doubt, ask which brake rotor they are using.



    0.0 CPP drop spindle = No change in track width. Minimum wheel: 14” disc type.



    +3/8” O.E. spindle with narrow hub and CPP 13” rotor = 3/8” wider per side. Minimum wheel: some 16” all 17”.



    +3/8” O.E. spindle with CPP “Zero Offset” 10.8” rotor = 3/8” wider per side. Minimum wheel: 14” disc type.



    +7/8” O.E. Stock spindle with standard hub and CPP13” rotor = 7/8” wider per side. Minimum wheel: some 16” all 17”.



    +7/8” O.E. Stock spindle with standard 11” rotor (common Chevelle rotor) = 7/8” wider per side. Minimum wheel: 14” disc type.



    +7/16” O.E. spindle with ECI “Zero Offset” 10.5” rotor = 7/16” wider per side. Minimum wheel: 14” disc type.



    +3/16” Heidts drop spindle with 8215 rotor = 3/16” wider per side. Minimum wheel: 14” disc type.



    +7/8” Heidts drop spindle with CPP 13” rotor = 7/8” wider per side. Minimum wheel: some 16” all 17”.

    Thanks,
    Aaron @ Classic Performance
    www.classicperform.com
    aaron@classicperform.com
    800-522-5004
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #18
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    That's great but the kit in question said minus 1-1/8" (that from CPP too). Right now with all the negatives associated with CPP I question anything they say or do. They are just not reliable.

  9. #19
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    By the way Cnut, I'm not arguing with you or the OP because I think what you guys are saying is the way it is - just saying there's conflicting info out there. Conflicting bad info.

  10. #20
    Registered Member 56Mark's Avatar
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    I put this kit on from CPP a few years ago. http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...57SWBK-D12.htm

    It does not come with the stainless hoses shown but that is noted. It says does not change "steering geometry". I would disagree. I called before hand and asked about how far it would set the wheels out and was told 3/8". I decided I could live with that. Before and after installing, I measured carefully and about 5/8" is how much each wheel was pushed out. I was not happy and complained uselessly. When I bought new wheels, I compensated and bought with an extra 1/4" offset, so I am back to about 3/8". They are 15" wheels.

    Other problems with the kit: 1. the rubber brake hose are/were tooooo dang long. I could not get them routed where they didn't want to rub the wheel. 2: the hose connection on the calipers came off at the wrong angle and made the hose problem worse (there are at least a couple of versions of these D52 style calipers with different hose connection locations). 3. one of the spindles did not have the tapered hole cut deep enough for the tie rod end to go in far enough to get the castle nut on with the cotter pin through.

    My fixes: Buy new calipers. Buy correct stainless braided hoses from Inline Tube. Drill the taper a few more thousandths. After all of that I am happy with them. Would I buy this kit again? NO WAY. I am done with CPP too.
    56-210, 283, 200-4R, Power steering, Power Brakes

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