What's your cam duration @.050" lift, and what stall do you have now?
What's your cam duration @.050" lift, and what stall do you have now?
The current one is supposedly around 2300-2500.
Duration at .050 is 230 and 230.
Now I'm already wishing I had bought a bigger cam, but I might need to have the pistons fly cut. I don't think I have much room there.
Tony
1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe
This is the converter that is in it. Bought in 1994 ($179) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-240900
Tony
1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe
A 3000 rpm stall speed converter should pick you up a bunch. Downside is it will slip at highway speed, kill a little gas mileage, and you'll need a big cooler if you don't already have one.
Burning slicks to the cords will not help on an un prepped track.
Again, the tires need to be clean. So don't track water or dirt up to the starting line. Best way to do that if you do a burnout is to let the car roll out of the water on its own (don't stop the burnout and then drive out with the tires wet). If you see that someone else did that, do what you can to avoid their mess. Sometimes it's best to go around the water, although sometimes it's unavoidable.
Not saying anyone is wrong, it's just that everyone I have ever seen drag race with slicks spins them till they are smoking. Maybe I'm not looking hard enough at the quiet car?
On a separate note, I was told that if I can go from idle to WOT without a problem, it will sort of act like a higher stall converter compared to revving it a bit with the brakes on. Does that make any sense? Would that also help the car hook?
Tony
1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe