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Thread: At the track video

  1. #31
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    Oh jeez just cut the BS. There's nothing wrong with a short burnout to clean the tires. I don't care what brand the tires are or whether they are bias ply tires or drag radials or even street tires. Then find out what tire pressure works for you. With YOUR tires, YOUR suspension, on the track YOU run on. If the tires are not contacting all the way across, an adjustment is needed. Pay attention to what's going on and make adjustments as needed. There's no reason that you need a specific air pressure no matter what. You have to adjust to the results.
    Last edited by Rick_L; 06-30-2018 at 06:31 PM.

  2. #32
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    Rick I agree with you, racing is a combination of trial and error and seat of your pants. There is nothing written in stone.

  3. #33
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    Rick I agree with you, racing is a combination of trial and error and seat of your pants. There is nothing written in stone. and I never heard of watching for little balls of rubber, unless you turn left racing.

  4. #34
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    I really appreciate all the above, I was starting to wonder if my tires would last this season. Now I'm sure they will.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  5. #35
    Registered Member JT56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Maybe you should try talking to some. I have, it was confirmed to me by Mickey Thompson factory reps at the Nationals at HPT Topeka their ET drag slicks are a low heat traction compound. They said all the big smokey burn guys were doing was improving sales.
    Im confused by your tactics? i said drag radials DONT need a heavy burnout. So what are you meaning I should try talking to some. The M/T homepage said little or no burnout. Isnt that what I was implying?

  6. #36
    Registered Member JT56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I always thought the water was for pussys with no horse power or no gear or a decent convertor, but I am an asshole. I probably do more the first pass than 2nd or 3rd myself.
    In the No Prep world...water is used so its not a fly paper track. Your reference to "pussys"...you should check out the power plants on some of these guys and gals.

  7. #37
    Registered Member NickP's Avatar
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    I guess all of the pro ranks in NHRA are "pussys". I don't know for proof positive but suspect that an NHRA track and National events is a prepped track and uses only water to even the playing field and eliminating variables introduced by the use of other chemicals by race teams.

  8. #38
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    Way back they used to spray 'glue' (traction compound) at the starting line. After that the water thing started for a tire clean. As stated above it probably was implemented to even the board and keep the cheaters halfway honest.

  9. #39
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    Years ago when we'd go to a slippery track, we'd do a water burnout and then pull up a few feet and put VHT down in front of each tire. No burnout, just spin the tire one revolution through it. It helped when things were really slick in the middle of the summer. Then came the days when the tracks would do it as regular prep for a race. That escalated to what NHRA has done the past few years. Spraying, dragging tires over it, etc. The last few races NHRA has backed off slightly on the track prep, and it shows. Not so many super fast times, more tire smoking runs until the teams got the hang of it, and even a few more cars are competitive.

  10. #40
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    I was at the track Saturday, still no clock. I tried doing a very short burnout, about 4 seconds the first time then 2 or 3 seconds on later runs. It didn't hook like before, but it didn't slip much either. The wheels spun a little on the tires, maybe 1" and 1/2", so I'll break them down, and please don't argue, but I'm going to try the tacky gasket spray that is like contact cement. If and only if they still spin will I put screws in. Some time ago I was complaining about the rear getting a bit squirrely near the finish, I didn't think of it till later but I didn't have that problem at all. Maybe that loose front control arm from the other thread was the problem all along. Jesus, no wonder it was squirely, lucky I didn't kill myself. Maybe next time I can let out another lb of air and see if it hooks better. I tried to watch the tac when starting and it looked like it was approaching 3K. What does that say about the convertor? This time I was going from idle to WOT.

    During tune and test my first run I lost in the end, and I realized too late that I left it in 2nd from doing the burnout. Don't know if I should admit that in public but what the hell I'm human. The "soft (something)" rev limiter in the MSD was soft indeed and I didn't even feel it. After that I did about 6 more runs and was beating everyone and some I was told were fairly fast. The the one employee found me and asked if I wanted to get in on a street car race. I told him that I have slicks. He said he saw me drive it in with slicks so it's a street car. LOL OK I got in. Picked a really shitty number and went up against one of the fastest cars there. He had a full roll cage and a lot of sheet metal missing. He came from far and I asked him if he drove it, he said he towed it till about 5 miles from the track then drove it the rest of the way. Hmm, I got the shitty end of the stick it seems. He blew me away. Then his second pass his distributor broke, damn, why didn't it happen the first time? Oh well it was only $30.

    Back at home I changed a weight on the governor to make it shift later than 5500rpm, (still I'm only aiming for 6K) went to test it and it ran like shit pulling it out of the garage. It had a little miss before but this was major. Definitely NOT the same as before when it got hot. Ordered a magnetic pick up for the MSD dizzy from Summit at one third the price of what MSD quoted me. I hope that's it and not the multi spark box. This MSD stuff sure seems to have it's problems. I may have to put my "Autotronic Controls" dizzy back in if this keeps up.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

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