At the track video

[chasracer]

That's a bit weird but anything can happen. We have run MSD stuff, heck maybe 25 years or more and other that a bad ignition toggle switch killing a coil never had any problems that weren't self-inflicted.

You asked about the converter. Not sure if you checked your current stall speed but find a flat, level road area and let the car coast along at 15-20 mph with it in high gear, then whack the throttle hard and watch the tach - what it jumps to is what your stall speed is with your current combination.

[55 Tony]

You asked about the converter. Not sure if you checked your current stall speed but find a flat, level road area and let the car coast along at 15-20 mph with it in high gear, then whack the throttle hard and watch the tach - what it jumps to is what your stall speed is with your current combination.

My shift kit isn't full manual/ it won't hold 2nd or 3rd, it will downshift, but it won't upshift if left in 1st or 2nd. When I ordered it Summit listed it as a full manual but that wasn't the case. Anyway now I'm spoiled with the modified governor shifting automatically. It was right at 5500rpm but I changed it and haven't got to test it yet. Hmm, I just thought of something, if I disconnect the kick down switch it may hold 2nd or 3rd?

The new MSD pickup isn't hard to install but time consuming. Had to take it all apart again, install the new one with RTV sealant and just snugged the two bolts so I could still move it. Put it together most of the way and adjust the gap between the pickup and the reluctor, let it sit overnight to cure. Today I have to take it apart again and tighten the bolts then put it together again. Hopefully the RTV will hold the gap setting, I suppose that is what it is for. I see the new pick up has what I call "test lead" wire. Much more supple and I believe finer strands to take more flexing, which it does with the vacuum advance in and out.

[55 Tony]

The road test went well, I'm not sure if it's running better than ever, or just better than in recent history. Yesterday before removing the distributor, I started it up again and put it in gear with some throttle and it was still missing. Today it's great, and with the brakes on and some throttle, the a/f gauge is more steady then it used to be. I just hope that's it for a while. I couldn't really check the stall, my tach is slow to react to rpm changes that fast. My latest change to the governor is too big a jump, I think I was up to 6500rpm and it didn't shift. I know most of you wouldn't worry about that, but I want this motor to last. When shifting manually I don't think it's doing much more at 6500 than at 6000. IDK, maybe it was, I just don't want to blow the motor.

[Rick_L]

It's not just a matter of "blowing the engine", you are giving away performance if you are shifting too late. You can also protect the engine with the rev limiter if you have an MSD-6AL box.

[55 Tony]

Yes Rick, I know the basics. Well a lot of them anyway.
Since I was shooting for 6Krpm automatic shift point, I had the limiter set to 6200 to be sure it shifts. But it went to 6200 and didn't shift so I need to put a little more weight back on the governor and/or mess with the springs.

[chevynut]

All this jacking around with weights and springs and floats and jets is pretty amusing, but a waste of time, when all you need is a modern electronic shift transmission and EFI. Just program your shift points, spark timing curve, fuel settings and rev limiter and it's done. And changes are easily made with a laptop or programmer without all the limitations and tradeoffs. I don't understand why anyone screws around with that old junk unless they just like to tinker.

[solidsguy]

All this jacking around with weights and springs and floats and jets is pretty amusing, but a waste of time, when all you need is a modern electronic shift transmission and EFI. Just program your shift points, spark timing curve, fuel settings and rev limiter and it's done. And changes are easily made with a laptop or programmer without all the limitations and tradeoffs. I don't understand why anyone screws around with that old junk unless they just like to tinker.

When a guy gets old and lazy enough to want to just give up on having any skills why even screw around with an old car at all then? New cars already come with that junk so why not just buy a new one, bring a laptop and a cell phone and forget the toolbox?

[55 Rescue Dog]

I freaking love my old school 1950 1.5 ton 7200lb Chevy fire truck with a 216 cubic inch 85hp inline six that redlines at 3300rpm with a good ole carb and points ignition. It runs, and drives like a dream for what it is. Simple, reliable, and easy to tune with just a screwdriver, a wrench, and 1/2 of a brain. No laptop required. After 68 years, it still runs perfect, with no software updates. I did add an electronic tachometer though. I think this thing even has 3 of the original tires at 2400 miles, that are 6.50-20's made by U.S. Royal, and they still hold air and work fine at 45mph. Old cars are like driving a time machine, which can be more fun than all of the latest gizmo's. Back to the OP, we never had problems running BBC's flat out to 7000rpm like I had 45 years ago just using points, and a regular coil. On my Camaro with an original 1970 350 LT-1, I'm running the simple "ready to run" MSD distributor with a built in adjustable rev limiter, a regular coil, and it runs perfect.

[55 Tony]

I love to tinker on old things. Like a jukebox from the late 40's with a worn out pot metal cam. It takes a cross between tinkering and inventing to make some old stuff work again. Then there are those who can't fix the old stuff like that jukebox, so they hook an mp3 player or cell phone to it. Well I guess if you can't fix it you have to do what you have to do.

[Rick_L]

Chevynut, you know better than to post this kind of BS. Please quit. It would be different if someone asked, but they didn't.

It just goes on and on, doesn't it?