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Thread: 57 Nomad-C4-LS1 called "Ozzy"

  1. #321
    Moderator NickP's Avatar
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    So, really I wasn't trying to be funny - Bluetooth signal to actuate the windows, locks, and speakers. Why can't it be done? There are Bluetooth speakers; all you need is the 12 volt power. What about wifi? You can turn on and off home security systems, door locks, lights and so on. If it doesn't exist, invent it maybe and become a leader in the industry.

  2. #322
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickP View Post
    So, really I wasn't trying to be funny - Bluetooth signal to actuate the windows, locks, and speakers. Why can't it be done? There are Bluetooth speakers; all you need is the 12 volt power. What about wifi? You can turn on and off home security systems, door locks, lights and so on. If it doesn't exist, invent it maybe and become a leader in the industry.
    Sure it could be done, as all the technology exists. But no matter how you do it, you'd still have to run at least one power wire into the door. So if you can run one, why not just run all of them?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  3. #323
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    so what kind of a milling machine would it take to cut a slot into the face of a hinge?
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  4. #324
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Updates:

    Got the fuel pump shutoff "inertia" switch wired in and working. However, my plan was to use the same signal voltage coming from the ECM to make the little LED light/buzzer sound off when the switch is triggered.
    But the light/buzzer didn't work after it was wired up in the nomad. (it DID work on the bench with 12 volts pushed thru it). Turns out the ECM signal output voltage for the fuel pump circuit is only about 5 volts, which is enough to trigger the fuel pump relay to shut off, but not enough to power up the light and buzzer. I'm gonna have to rethink this one and wire the light/buzzer to a full 12 volt source.

    And...

    The 1 year old starter (rebuilt) I bought from Autozone (with a 90 day warranty) took a dump and the bendix isnt working anymore. So I pulled it and bought a brand new Bosch unit. Lifetime warranty on those.

    And...
    DMV tags never showed up in the mail after sending in the money to get it off Non-Op, so went to my local AAA office and they took care of getting me licensed. Turns out the license plate number showing on my paperwork isnt even a valid number in their system, so they issued new plates and tags. I'm legal now.

    2 steps forward, one step back. That's hot roddin' as they say.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  5. #325
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I would have thought the ECM fuel pump signal would be a ground (active low). Pretty sure mine is. So the positive side of the relay coil goes to 12v and the other side goes to the ECM to ground it to activate the relay. I’m surprised a 12v relay coil works at 5v.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  6. #326
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    I’m surprised a 12v relay coil works at 5v.
    I'm surely no electrical engineer, but i guess i better check this more thoroughly...
    I made an assumption about the 5 volt thing from info i read long ago about certain ecm voltage triggers...
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  7. #327
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I replied on your other post. I found out that most fuel pump signals are active high (supply voltage) unlike many of the other ECM signals that supply a ground. My C950 supplies power to the relay coil and the other side of the coil is grounded. Other GM fuel pump relay signals work the same including LT1 and LS ECMs.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

  8. #328
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    I found out that most fuel pump signals are active high (supply voltage) unlike many of the other ECM signals that supply a ground.
    Yes, I confirmed this with my fuel pump signal-from-ecm last night. I will post a links to the parts, and a schematic on how I wired this up over in the "fuel systems, ecm,..." thread later today when I get time to draw that up. lets continue this conversation over there.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  9. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevynut View Post
    That's pretty much what I have in my doors. I have two wires for the power windows (switches and controllers in console), two for the power vent windows (switches and relays on valence), two for speakers, two for power door locks (switch and controller in console), one for courtesy light, one for door lock indicator (passenger side only) and one spare in each door. 10 wires in the driver side door and 11 in the passenger side. That's about all I can get into the hinge using 18 gauge and larger wires.

    I had no source of power inside the door for the courtesy light so I inverted the dome light ground signal and ran the power to the lights, grounding them in the doors and eliminating one wire.

    I also used the convertible vent window frames without the latch on them, since the motor prevents the window from being pushed open. The latches were essentially useless with the power motors, it looks cleaner without them, and I won't accidentally latch them closed.

    Personally I don't think you're going to have much luck using one of those rubber sleeves since the tri5 doors are really close to the a-pillars when the doors are closed and the door moves a long ways from the a-pillar when opened. Modern car hinges work quite a bit differently. There is a braided stainless steel conduit that some guys use that slides into a sleeve in the door....I have a set I'd sell if you want them. They're sold by Electric Life....

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...SABEgJji_D_BwE

    I'm so glad I have all this cool power stuff for convenience and modernization, which is my theme. The more cool stuff the better. You can't even tell there are any wires going into the door with the hollow hinges and the jamb looks really clean. The hinge holds the wires very tightly and the wires don't move inside the door. Where the wires exit the hinge they're in heat shrink to bundle them together. They exit the hinge and go straight up the a-pillar, so there's little or no "bending" of the wires, just a slight twist of the entire bundle over about 18"+ up to the dash when the doors are opened. I wonder how the millions of new cars and trucks prevent wires from breaking with all that bending going on every time the door is opened. It must be a huge problem.


    Here's one solution....




    Here's my hinge...



    The upper hinge has a much better profile that fits the depression in the door jamb. But the exposed wires is not pleasing. Suggestion is to fabricate a channel to weld to and grind smooth that covers the exposed wires. The wires could be feed thru the created channel.

    The internal clip that retains the open door is too visible on the second one too. The second one does not fit the depress contour at all, if it did it would be an acceptable choice.

  10. #330
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gmvette View Post
    The upper hinge has a much better profile that fits the depression in the door jamb. But the exposed wires is not pleasing. Suggestion is to fabricate a channel to weld to and grind smooth that covers the exposed wires. The wires could be feed thru the created channel.

    The internal clip that retains the open door is too visible on the second one too. The second one does not fit the depress contour at all, if it did it would be an acceptable choice.
    LMAO! More nonsense from the peanut gallery. The lower picture looks EXACTLY like a stock hinge. In fact it IS a stock hinge with a wire channel inside of it. The "internal clip" is stock. If you understood what you were talking about, you would note that the bottom hinge is missing the sheetmetal cover. I have new ones that I will be installing after painting them. Are you related to RD?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension

    You can see my 56 Nomad build here http://www.picturetrail.com/chevynut

    For affordable C4 Corvette Suspension conversions for your car, visit http://www.classicedgedesigns.com

    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax

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