Looks like one way would be to section and weld another shaft on that one to make it 1/4in longer.
Looks like one way would be to section and weld another shaft on that one to make it 1/4in longer.
Paul, I don't know how thick that billet trim is but I have a hard time believing that 1/8" or so could cause the light switch not to work. Are you sure you have the switch properly seated into the dash from behind? I'm sure they've sold hundreds if not thousands of these trim pieces over the years. I know the temptation is to modify parts to make it work, but you shouldn't have to. Have you tried to call them to see if there's anything you're missing?
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
Yes. I spoke with the folks at Back Roads Fab yesterday. The insert itself is only 1/8 inch thick but this is the curved piece on the left side of the instrument panel, so it doesn't sit completely, exactly flush with the surface of the dash. I have gently bent the insert enough to get it to sit as flat as possible, but it's still "out" by about 1/4 inch from the surface of the sheetmetal behind it right there where the light switch hole is. That's because the underlying sheetmetal is formed also.Have you tried to call them to see if there's anything you're missing
They said the inserts often need to be "sanded" to fit in place exactly. And when used with the chrome knob trim pieces, those too need to be sanded.
Ive sanded the chrome trim piece enough (really, just removing the chrome plating from the backside enough to get it to sit exactly flush 360 degrees around the whole piece).
But I'm still "short".
The way to fix this is to use what I have and figure out a way to lengthen the rod (as RD suggested). But that's a super thin piece of metal (the rod part) and not sure how I'm going to lengthen it just yet.
As you know Laszlo (from your own recent mods), nothing fits exactly as planned.
The guy at Back Roads Fab asked me to call him again and maybe they could get me a new switch rod without the knob, so then I can maybe add a stock knob with a set screw or something...
1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.
Wow, a 1/4" gap between the insert and dash? Seems like it needs some more bending and/or sanding to make it sit flat against it. Something isn't right and imo it should not have a gap like that. That's where I'd be looking to fix it.
If you want to lengthen the rod it seems like it would be easy enough to do. Just weld on some steel rod and grind it to match.
Last edited by chevynut; 10-06-2017 at 10:06 AM.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
I have left the wiring stuff for the moment, and spent the day (yesterday) with the Nomad up on jackstands and dealing with a bunch of undercar things that still needed attention:
Replaced the 2 long bolts that hold the Dana 44 center unit to the frame (because the first bolts I assembled this with were too short)
Replaced the 4 long bolts that mount the dogbones to the frame (same reason, first round of bolts used to assemble were too short)
Ran the battery ground cable thru the wagon floor and mounted to the frame (just over the passenger rear tire, inside the frame).
Tightened every bolt up that I had left loose during fabrication over the last few years.
Mounted the fuel filler tubes/hoses to fuel tank.
Installed all the body to frame bolts/rubber cushions. (pain in the arse because I had to nudge the body to get it all to align properly)
Next up:
Continue finishing up the interior wiring
Continue finishing up with the gauge/dash wiring and assembly
Continue finishing up the engine bay wiring stuff (remote relays and fuse panel)
Figure out what to do for an exhaust system and get it installed so I can FIRE THIS THING UP.
Hearing the cackle of Laszlo's engine startup motivated me to get 'er done.
1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.
Keep it going strong, wagon crazy! We need to show up with black (yours) and red (mine) '57 Nomads in the not too distant future..
Keep at it Paul, you'll get there! Seems like a never-ending list of details to work on.
Part of the reason I worked so hard to fire up the 502 was motivational. There's a ton of little details on these cars after you think you're almost done with something. I spent two weeks finishing up stuff just so I could fire the engine and that was a big accomplishment and a milestone for me. I am 99.9% done with everything on the chassis and only have a few small things to do before I can drop the body on it. Sure don't want to be working under this thing.
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax
It's a Weatherpak connector and you can get it from AAW and other places. I don't know who's the cheapest but here's some:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Weathe...UaAoTaEALw_wcB
https://jet.com/product/detail/54912...0aAk_6EALw_wcB
https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Pack-.../dp/B005O0V5JQ
56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension
Other vehicles:
56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
1962 327/340HP Corvette
1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
2001 Porsche Boxster S
2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax