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Thread: 57 Nomad-C4-LS1 called "Ozzy"

  1. #261
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    My ECU is different than yours since mine has a MAP sensor and an LS uses a MAF sensor for measuring airflow so I'm not sure if that affects anything but the IAC principles should be the same.
    LS engines have both MAF and MAP sensors, and use them both. In general MAF is best for transient conditions and MAP is best for steady state. So MAP is most important for idling. On the other hand many idle problems are not idling per se, but a bad transition from idling and back to idling. If the MAF fails on a stock LS, it will run on speed density (MAP).

    You're right about the IAC count being the way to monitor minimum air. The TPS signal must also be within a recommended range near zero.

  2. #262
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    I will have to deal with this eventually with a 05 truck engine, but I sure think dialing in a carburetor is much easier.

  3. #263
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    I wonder if you have a flaky coolant temperature sensor that's sending a false signal to the ECU or your TPS is set wrong. It would be nice if you had a way to monitor your sensors. Do you have a OBDII scanner?
    I do have a simple ODBII scanner, and I can see the water temp, and a few of the air/fuel variables..but its a pretty basic scanner and doesnt let me do anything but reset codes. So the Nomad is idling fine, running fine, and the next step is to consider either purchasing software and dive into learning all about tuning these late model engines OR just take it to a shop, pay a guy for a few hours of time and let them tune it (while of course...I pick his brain in every possible way to understand what he does and why).

    IMO there should be some specified IAC count setting when the engine is warmed up and idling with no load (no A/C, in neutral). If it were me I'd hook up a scanner and see if you can read the IAC counts for final setting of the throttle plates.
    That's the plan...per above.

    Do you have to take the TB off to adjust it?
    I took it off to adjust that torx screw because I could hardly get a tool in there to access it. It may not need to be removed if I have to back it down a bit though...
    IMG_5200.jpg
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  4. #264
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Been chasing the other electrical gremlins and think I've figured out that my fuel gauge is just effed up.

    This is from a new Classic Instruments set for a 57 chevy that came with the nomad when I bought it (some 8 years ago now).

    Once I got all the wiring done, and put 4 gallons of gas in the empty tank to start it, the gauge always read about 1/4 full. So I figured i had it wired correctly.

    Then a few weeks ago, I wondered why (when I turned off the battery kill switch...killing power to everything) the gauge still read 1/4 full. I figured maybe I goofed and didnt wire it to key-on ignition power.
    But then I realized if it was always on, and I kill the main switch..why doesnt the needle go back to zero?

    So today I pulled it from the gauge pod and removed it and here's what it looks like with NO wires hooked anywhere...

    IMG_5215.jpg

    So I'm going to call Classic Instruments Tech Support in the morning to see if this gauge is fried, and will probably have to order another one.
    The cash burning continues.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  5. #265
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    But then I realized if it was always on, and I kill the main switch..why doesnt the needle go back to zero?
    I don't see any "zero" on that fuel gauge.

    It's possible that the gauge has to have power and the sender connected to it to read correctly and may just "float" when there's no connections. I don't know what kind of movements they use though.

    Anyhow, I hope you have better luck with Classic Instruments tech support than I had with Dakota Digital tech support. These tech guys seem to be clueless.

    FWIW here's a pic from their website. The needles are all over the place.

    https://shop.classicinstruments.com/ch01bslf-2
    Last edited by chevynut; 01-29-2019 at 05:02 AM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  6. #266
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    You might check it out 'on the bench' if you have a 12 volt source and a variable resister (or a set of resisters).. Is the back of the gauge labeled with the correct sending unit resister loading for 'zero to full' display?? There are several different sending unit resistance ranges used for various vehicles.

    PS. You probably know this, but you have to Match the resistance range of the gauge to the fuel tank sending unit resistance range in order for the gauge to read correctly...

  7. #267
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    I spoke with Classic Instruments tech support (Jake) and he walked me thru how it works and how to bench test the gauge to verify its working as its supposed to. Said this gauge is fairly bulletproof, so usually doesnt malfunction.

    It is designed to work with a 0-30 ohm sending unit. (which is what i have in the tanks, inc. tank).
    He said to test it:
    -When 12v is applied to the "I" post, and NO ground applied to the "S" post (fuel sender)...the arrow should point all the way FULL. It does that...
    -When 12v is appied to the "I" post, and a fully grounded wire is applied to the S post...the arrow should point all the way EMPTY. It does that...

    So I asked him "why doesnt the arrow move to EMPTY when I power off the vehicle (no 12v on I post), and he says because a 0-30 ohm gauge is such a narrow resistance band, that placing the usual magnet within the gauge would cause incorrect readings. Apparently, gauges with larger ohm range use a magnet placed at the empty side (internally) which would cause the gauge to read EMPTY whenever there was no 12v power to the gauge (when the key is off).

    On a stock 57 chevy with the stock gauge, the gauge ALWAYS reads the last position of the sender when your turn the key off.

    So it never zeros out (or shows EMPTY) unless you run it all the way empty.

    So apparently, my gauge works fine and I just need to put it all back together and NOT be concerned that the gauge never goes to EMPTY when I shut off the key (like a modern car would).

    I'm out of logic to argue with any of this, so I'm going to put it back together and move on to the next troubleshooting item.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  8. #268
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    This is why I think Dakota Digital's gauges are FAR, FAR, FAR superior to anything Classic Instruments or anyone else offers. The gauges use stepper motors and zero ever time power is applied. The gauges are all run by a computer that interprets the sending unit's info. You can PROGRAM the sending unit's resistance range, you can PROGRAM the speedometer, and there's lots of other functions that CI can't come close to. DD's VHX and HDX gauges are state of the art, and are basically like those in modern cars. I also like the fact that there's only ONE CAT5 cable from the computer to my cluster. If I was buying a new set of gauges (I did), I wouldn't consider using anything else.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  9. #269
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Gauges are all wired up and working fine. I drove the Nomad around the neighborhood today (for the first time in the 8 years since I bought it). Pretty ecstatic that it runs as well as it does. No glass or interior (except for the 2 bucket seats) so much more work to be done before this is even road ready for "shake down" driving.

    But it was encouraging to haul ass up and down a few streets and DRIVE IT.

    Sits too low...front tires rub at full turn, but that's easily adjustable with the coil overs.

    Laszlo...is yours driveable yet?
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  10. #270
    Registered Member BamaNomad's Avatar
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    Congratulations wagoncrazy! You've achieved another milestone in your Nomad endeavors!

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