57 Nomad-C4-LS1 called "Ozzy"

[BamaNomad]

Steady progress! That's what it's all about.... Keeps the smiles coming as the miles increase..

[WagonCrazy]

who makes an upper or lower nomad door A pillar hinge, with a slot within the hinge so I can hide all the wires going into the doors?

Madmooks Mike: you have these on deck yet?

[chevynut]

who makes an upper or lower nomad door A pillar hinge, with a slot within the hinge so I can hide all the wires going into the doors?

Madmooks Mike: you have these on deck yet?

I don't think Mike is going to make them. I've made some and I think we discussed mine before. I sold one set to Richard here a few months ago. I have around 50 hinges I was going to modify but didn't get set up to do it. Had a machinist lined up and everything but no time. Not sure I have time to make another set but I might at some point.

Woody's Hotrods, Danchuk, and I think CC sell some versions, but I don't like how they're made. I think we discussed this in another thread. They have a screw-on aluminum cover on top or bottom that the spring has to rub on....I think they will wear badly, as even the steel hinges wear. Also, cutting out the entire top of the hinge like some guys do weakens them and they'll flex more. My design leaves thick metal above and below the slot for stiffness and the springs rub on the same stock surfaces. I have put 11 or 12 wires through them.

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[BamaNomad]

who makes an upper or lower nomad door A pillar hinge, with a slot within the hinge so I can hide all the wires going into the doors?

Madmooks Mike: you have these on deck yet?

There's always the 'stock' conduit (or reproductions of)...

[WagonCrazy]

polished cnc'd stainless hinges (made a little beefier to compensate for the weakness created by a channel milled thru them) would be nice.

I need to run about as many wires as you have thru it Laszlo.

[WagonCrazy]

but instead of spending $500 on billet hinges, maybe I'll just do this like modern cars and fabricate in a rubber boot.
Summit sells these for $8 each...

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[NickP]

Bluetooth?

[WagonCrazy]

Hey Nick. How's it going? Good to see you here.

These are what go into the doors (needing wires/)

Power window (switch for driver and passenger windows)
Power door lock
Speaker
LED Mirror (with blinker lights)
possibly power vent wing (maybe-maybe not)
accent interior light

[55 Rescue Dog]

I'm so glad I'm not going to need any wires inside my doors just for simplicity, which is my theme. Fewer parts the better. A copper wire can easily break after it's bent sharply too many times, and how to repair it? Skip feeding through the hinge and use a flex line of some sort with no sharp bends.

[chevynut]

These are what go into the doors (needing wires/)

Power window (switch for driver and passenger windows)
Power door lock
Speaker
LED Mirror (with blinker lights)
possibly power vent wing (maybe-maybe not)
accent interior light

That's pretty much what I have in my doors. I have two wires for the power windows (switches and controllers in console), two for the power vent windows (switches and relays on valence), two for speakers, two for power door locks (switch and controller in console), one for courtesy light, one for door lock indicator (passenger side only) and one spare in each door. 10 wires in the driver side door and 11 in the passenger side. That's about all I can get into the hinge using 18 gauge and larger wires.

I had no source of power inside the door for the courtesy light so I inverted the dome light ground signal and ran the power to the lights, grounding them in the doors and eliminating one wire.

I also used the convertible vent window frames without the latch on them, since the motor prevents the window from being pushed open. The latches were essentially useless with the power motors, it looks cleaner without them, and I won't accidentally latch them closed.

Personally I don't think you're going to have much luck using one of those rubber sleeves since the tri5 doors are really close to the a-pillars when the doors are closed and the door moves a long ways from the a-pillar when opened. Modern car hinges work quite a bit differently. There is a braided stainless steel conduit that some guys use that slides into a sleeve in the door....I have a set I'd sell if you want them. They're sold by Electric Life....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...SABEgJji_D_BwE

I'm so glad I have all this cool power stuff for convenience and modernization, which is my theme. The more cool stuff the better. You can't even tell there are any wires going into the door with the hollow hinges and the jamb looks really clean. The hinge holds the wires very tightly and the wires don't move inside the door. Where the wires exit the hinge they're in heat shrink to bundle them together. They exit the hinge and go straight up the a-pillar, so there's little or no "bending" of the wires, just a slight twist of the entire bundle over about 18"+ up to the dash when the doors are opened. I wonder how the millions of new cars and trucks prevent wires from breaking with all that bending going on every time the door is opened. It must be a huge problem.


Here's one solution....




Here's my hinge...