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Thread: 57 Nomad-C4-LS1 called "Ozzy"

  1. #251
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Apparently the threads work fine but something is wrong with one of the sealing surfaces.
    Update: So I ordered a different brand of AN fitting from Summit to replace these 2 with. These are low pressure "return lines" for the power steering fluid reservoir.
    They seem to seal up fine. Filled the system yesterday and no leaks today.

    Those other fittings I ordered/used originally must NOT be AN style flares. Because they DID start to create an indent in the AN male bung the more I tightened them up. These new fittings seem to seal completely.

    Problem resolved. Onto the next system to check: Hydraulic Clutch setup. Then onto filling brake fluid and bleeding brakes. Then to hook up and adjust the Lokar emer brake cable setup.
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  2. #252
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Good to hear it worked!
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  3. #253
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Spent the weekend wrenching on this Nomad. Fired up the engine and let it idle a while. Found and fixed various fluid leaks (hoses, etc) but still have this condition where it won't idle for more than about 45 seconds without starving for air. Put a new IAC (Idle Air Control valve) in the throttle body, and it seems to work...but its like the butterfly valve in the body allows no air in when idling, and it's not getting any air.

    I guess I need to check the functionality of the IAC and do some electrical tests on the wire to/from the EMC to verify it's doing what it's supposed to be doing...

    Anyway, here's a short video of me reving it a bit. Exhaust system sounds so much better in person than in this video.

    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  4. #254
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    I think you need to set the butterfly in the TB so it's partly open, then the IAC controls the idle speed up and down from there. That's how it works with my 502 and Holley ECM.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  5. #255
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Yes. There is a stop nut threaded thru the casting of the throttle body, the the butterfly sort of sits on that when closed. I need to pull the TB because I can't get to the nut to adjust it as it sits now (installed).
    But I think your onto something because after I put the new IAC valve in, there were a couple of times during idling that the engine surged a little bit on it's own, and i think that was the IAC doing it's job. But it's not consistent.

    I'll pull the TB and get some pics posted to show what I find.

    Keep the clues coming guys!
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  6. #256
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    See if you can google some info on "minimum air setting" for your engine, which is how to adjust the stop on the butterfly and how the IAC interacts with it. That should get you there. You probably just need to open it a bit, hopefully a good "minimum air" writeup will tell you how much.
    Last edited by Rick_L; 01-14-2019 at 04:54 PM.

  7. #257
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    On my 502 Holley has me adjust the throttle plates until I get a certain reading for the IAC position, which I can read out of the ECU. Then there are some IAC settings to make the engine behave correctly in certain cases, such as when the throttle slams shut. The IAC follows the throttle and slowly lets the engine go back to idle. There are also PID settings, an IAC "park" setting, and a few others. I don't know if you have access to any of that stuff but I'll bet it's something related to your throttle setting, TPS, or temperature sensor. Keep in mind that some settings change as coolant temperature changes, and that could be why it runs for a while then stops.

    Are you running a custom program, or a stock GM one? Are there any mods to the sensors or ECU wiring?
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

  8. #258
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    I think the basic minimum air adjustment on a stock or near stock LS1 can be made without a scanner or tuning s/w, but further adjustments to the idle would require tuning s/w like HPTuners or EFILive.

  9. #259
    Registered Member WagonCrazy's Avatar
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    Update:
    I pulled the throttle body, adjusted the small torx screw to allow the butterfly blade to JUST-BARELY-NOT-BE-SEATED tight against the housing. Then reassembled it and it now idles without running out of air. Seems to have problem solved. Lot's of writeups (from like 2005) on varous LS forums. Most guys said the buttterfly seals too well when left to sit tight against the housing, so you should adjust the screw to just take the pressure of of it. It worked for me!

    Secondly, I kept having an intermittant starter issue. Turn the key, "click" but no turn. Checked every connection between the battery and starter, to no avail. Then laid there on my back under the engine looking at it thinking about what it involved in moving power to a device, and realized I had NEVER INSTALLED A GROUND CABLE from engine to frame. The battery IS grounded to the frame (in the rear of the wagon) but I forgot to put one in at the front (engine to frame). So I put one in (albeit temporarily) and BINGO... it starts every time how.
    Don't I feel like a dumbass sometimes!

    IMG_5204.jpg
    1957 Nomad- LS1/T56 on C4 chassis
    1959 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, shortbed, big window, 327ci.

  10. #260
    Registered Member chevynut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonCrazy View Post
    Update:
    I pulled the throttle body, adjusted the small torx screw to allow the butterfly blade to JUST-BARELY-NOT-BE-SEATED tight against the housing. Then reassembled it and it now idles without running out of air. Seems to have problem solved. Lot's of writeups (from like 2005) on varous LS forums. Most guys said the buttterfly seals too well when left to sit tight against the housing, so you should adjust the screw to just take the pressure of of it. It worked for me!
    Not sure about the LS but on my Holley TB you have to crack the throttle plates a little to get the IAC counts where they should be at idle. Holley wants an IAC setting of "20" out of 255 counts at warm idle with no engine load. My ECU is different than yours since mine has a MAP sensor and an LS uses a MAF sensor for measuring airflow so I'm not sure if that affects anything but the IAC principles should be the same.

    Sounds like the IAC was running out of range somehow, but not sure why it was happening. As the engine warms up the idle speed should actually drop, requiring LESS air. So the IAC could obviously supply enough air to the engine alone at fast idle. I wonder if you have a flaky coolant temperature sensor that's sending a false signal to the ECU or your TPS is set wrong. It would be nice if you had a way to monitor your sensors. Do you have a OBDII scanner?

    IMO there should be some specified IAC count setting when the engine is warmed up and idling with no load (no A/C, in neutral). If it were me I'd hook up a scanner and see if you can read the IAC counts for final setting of the throttle plates. Do you have to take the TB off to adjust it? I can barely get to mine with the TB installed. I don't know why they make it so hard to get to.

    Glad it worked, but I always need to know WHY something worked so I have confidence it's really fixed. And I'd want to make sure the IAC count is in spec.

    Here's a couple threads you may have seen discussing this:

    https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...ter-reset.html

    http://www.gmtuners.com/tech/TPS_IAC.htm

    Secondly, I kept having an intermittant starter issue. Turn the key, "click" but no turn. Checked every connection between the battery and starter, to no avail. Then laid there on my back under the engine looking at it thinking about what it involved in moving power to a device, and realized I had NEVER INSTALLED A GROUND CABLE from engine to frame. The battery IS grounded to the frame (in the rear of the wagon) but I forgot to put one in at the front (engine to frame). So I put one in (albeit temporarily) and BINGO... it starts every time how.
    Good to see you're solving all these little gremlins . As you might recall, I was having intermittent starter issues too with my temporary engine wiring setup. I pulled my starter twice and even ordered a new solenoid before I realized that I had removed the cable (side mount terminals) at the battery and forgot to tighten it back down after re-installing it.


    Don't I feel like a dumbass sometimes!
    I think we've all been there at least a few times.
    56 Nomad, Ramjet 502, Viper 6-speed T56, C4 Corvette front and rear suspension


    Other vehicles:

    56 Chevy 2-door BelAir sedan
    56 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    57 Chevy 210 4-door sedan
    1962 327/340HP Corvette
    1961 Willys CJ3B Jeep
    2001 Porsche Boxster S
    2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
    2019 GMC Sierra Denali Duramax

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