torque converter street/strip

[TrifiveRichard]

And your locking converter, I have often thought of using a simple toggle switch just for on the highway. Was it a full manual valve body too? If I did that I'd add just a little bit of electronics with a relay that unlocked it at low speeds and/or really simple a relay activated by the brake lights that cut off the lock up.

youre right, the lockup was engaged with a simple toggle switch and was used just for hiway cruising. A latching relay could be used and reset with the brake light switch.

[markm]

chasracer is not agreeing with the "consensus" I'm reading because there isn't one.

He is advocating a 3400-3600 stall.

Trifiverichard is advocating 2400 stall.

My advice was that increasing the stall from 2400 to 3000 increases the heat and slippage, and decreases the fuel mileage while increasing the performance (but only if you don't spin the tires, because you're going to be closer to doing that).

So it's up to you to decide and find out what the real tradeoffs are between a driver and a race car. There is no pat answer.

Very well put, you cannot have your cake and eat it too. This is why I have two purpose built race cars and a dozen street cars and trucks.

[Rick_L]

The relay circuit needs some sort of speed sensor or pressure sensor to keep it from applying in the lower gears. The easy way is to wire it up similar to stock but add a toggle switch if you think you must have one. Keyed power > toggle switch > brake switch > vacuum switch if used > connector on side of trans > 2 wire lockup solenoid > pressure switch > ground. That's for a 1 wire pressure switch with a grounded body that screws into the valve body. There are other variations with 2 wire pressure switches and 1 wire lockup solenoids. No relay required with this method.

How did a lockup converter get in this thread about a TH400 torque converter? TH400 doesn't support lockup torque converters.

[55 Tony]

e was that increasing the stall from 2400 to 3000 increases the heat and slippage, and decreases the fuel mileage while increasing the performance (but only if you don't spin the tires, because you're going to be closer to doing that).

I was going to mention that the last few times since I wasn't doing long smokey burnouts I wasn't hooking like I did at first. I had intended to try a slightly longer burnout and a little less air. Although I guess I should only change one thing at a time.

Wish I could go to the track right now, it's 60° with very low humidity. We are getting some beautiful weather here. Well I forgot to send this, it's up to 70°

[chasracer]

chasracer is not agreeing with the "consensus" I'm reading because there isn't one.

He is advocating a 3400-3600 stall.

Trifiverichard is advocating 2400 stall.

My advice was that increasing the stall from 2400 to 3000 increases the heat and slippage, and decreases the fuel mileage while increasing the performance (but only if you don't spin the tires, because you're going to be closer to doing that).

So it's up to you to decide and find out what the real tradeoffs are between a driver and a race car. There is no pat answer.

I'm not advocating any particular stall rpm or converter size. I simply said that based on how he uses the car reported on this site, that's probably close to what a manufacturer would wind up recommending to him. There are always trade-offs but I do not believe this car is the get-in and go to work vehicle save for an emergency so except for a little extra heat and who cares about gas mileage, the car would drive just fine. My general consensus statement was aimed at contacting a converter manufacturer directly which was already mentioned a couple of times. Lastly - what I normally find is that "most" hot rodders may have purchased one re-worked converter in their tinkering, usually replacing a stocker or during the build-up of a new ride. They probably don't have 8-10 of them stacked like cord wood in their shop - but that's how you find out if the latest hot lick works for your combination or not. Anyone interested in a 7", 8800 converter? Got two of them almost new - first $2000 takes one - free shipping. You better be able to wind that small block to at least 10,500 to make use of it!

[55 Tony]

I was looking at this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ape-46013/overview/

This is what Boss Hog recommends for street/strip:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ape-47713
Supposed to be 2800 ~ 3200 stall.

Then I asked what if I was looking at more strip than street and they recommended this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ape-47733/overview/
Supposed to be between 3200 ~ 3500 stall.

Asked what the difference was between my choice and theirs besides $300 and they said strength. With all my specs they said the cheaper one is really borderline.
They did also have concerns about my trans cooler line first go through the radiator, they say to bypass that. I was under the impression that a tranny can run hotter than the coolant and the radiator cooled it some and the trans cooler cooled it more? At first they thought I needed a bigger cooler but then with the cast aluminum pan that holds a few extra quarts I should be OK.

Also questioned my 3,950 lb weight estimate and I told them I figured it like this:
3370 Curb
60 gas
150 BB
40 12 bolt
100 th400
40 caltracs
230 me.
= 3950 lbs.

Comments? (besides me going on a diet)

[55 Rescue Dog]

It's always helpful to know what the weight of your vehicle, or trailer is. There are plenty of places that have certified scales you could weigh it at for a few bucks, or less, which I have done many times. Wheel scales are on my list, hoping to stumble on a steal on a set. It would be great to know the load on all 4 tires.

[markm]

A good quality convertor 3200-3500 is fine, I would stick with A1, TCI, or Coan. Not a fan of cheap stuff.

[55 Tony]

Yes, I had hoped to weigh it sometime but now it's tough since it isn't exactly mobile.

[Rick_L]

Weight isn't really an issue as long as the body/interior is essentially stock. It's going to weigh 3700 or so with a big block.

Your comment about the radiator cooler doesn't apply with anything 2400 rpm stall and up. With that you need a big cooler and don't run it through the radiator cooler.

You simply need to decide two things. What stall you want knowing that bigger is a detriment to highway driving. And whether you want to use a name brand or cheap out. We can't decide that for you, it's up to you.