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Thread: torque converter street/strip

  1. #71
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    It didn't make sense until now, but the donor trans had 2 snap rings holding the one section in, I guess to take up the room for the missing thrust washer, so that's what I did. Yes I know, not real smart but I am learning.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  2. #72
    Registered Member chasracer's Avatar
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    Honestly for going through all this trouble, a soft kit would be the least I would do and now since I know you have Ron's book - it's a bible on Th400's - then you don't have any excuses. I usually put some trans fluid on the sealing rings and use a .010 feeler gauge. Just some light pressure and the sealing rings go right in. I also prefer the teflon seals to the cast iron ones but it's not a show stopper. Trans Fluid in a Windex bottle and petroleum jelly are your best friends during a rebuild. And yep, clearances can certainly be different on different cases but at least they are easy to correct in a TH400 unit.

  3. #73
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    Just when you thought this thread was dead ...

    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
    After talking to TCI, I ordered one of theirs. It's rated at Summit for 3000 stall but the guy at TCI said with my motor it should be closer to 3200 - 3400. Should be here today or tomorrow.
    After working on the different carb and going for a short test run, my driveway is pretty steep uphill. I stopped at a steep part, yanked the parking brake all the way and pumped and held the brakes to the floor and nailed it and the tires didn't spin. The rpms went up to 4000 and stayed there. It may have flashed a little higher but my tach is slow to react so I don't know. So Summit said it's 3000 stall, tci with my engine info says 3200 to 3400, and it goes up to 4000 in the driveway? Is this thing a bit looser than it's supposed to be or is that just how it is? I know to me, never having had a high stall converter before, it sure has to rev to get out of it's own way at a stop sign or light turned green. Between 1600 to 1900rpm to move. That isn't slow but it's far from a a jack rabbit start. So is it just the nature of the beast or is this thing crap?

  4. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
    After working on the different carb and going for a short test run, my driveway is pretty steep uphill. I stopped at a steep part, yanked the parking brake all the way and pumped and held the brakes to the floor and nailed it and the tires didn't spin. The rpms went up to 4000 and stayed there. It may have flashed a little higher but my tach is slow to react so I don't know. So Summit said it's 3000 stall, tci with my engine info says 3200 to 3400, and it goes up to 4000 in the driveway? Is this thing a bit looser than it's supposed to be or is that just how it is? I know to me, never having had a high stall converter before, it sure has to rev to get out of it's own way at a stop sign or light turned green. Between 1600 to 1900rpm to move. That isn't slow but it's far from a a jack rabbit start. So is it just the nature of the beast or is this thing crap?
    Bump

  5. #75
    Registered Member chasracer's Avatar
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    I actually wrote you a response yesterday but then erased it. After the BS from our friend again, I was about ready to abandon this forum too. Getting damned tired of these "know it all's" that usually can't do anything but repeat something they heard like a damned parrot.

    Anyway, on to your issue. The bottom line to me is that you have hit the point where the car is in the twilight zone now. It's a bit more race car than it is street car at this point and slippage in the converter is just something that you have to put up with until you develop more horsepower and torque from the engine. You can of course always send the converter back and tell them to tighten it up if your leanings are to have it behave a bit better on the street. If it were mine I probably wouldn't do that but I lean heavily towards performance and the hell with everything else. I don't know if you have had the chance to test the car at the strip yet, if so I must have missed the post. You also have to remember that every time you make a change you have to go through the re-tuning process. What worked with the other converter might be close with this one or totally out the window. Also, your method for checking stall is not the normal one that most of us use. In fact most transmission places will tell you same thing, roll along at 15-20 mph on a flat area, have it in high gear and whack it hard - watch the tach and see what the number is. You also have said repeatedly that the tach is slow - I would suggest replacing it with something that you can count on and know is accurate.
    Last edited by chasracer; 10-18-2018 at 07:05 PM.

  6. #76
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    I've been doing really good about not *peeking* and reading his posts. Only a couple times and they weren't his asshole ones. IMO missing his posts that are good are not enough to make up for the ignorant childish ones.

    The problem with testing that way is that it's not a full manual valve body, so it would hit 1st. I did realize that at light throttle it was shifting pretty early so I turned the modulator valve screw in a couple turns so maybe if it doesn't shift so soon. Yes that will raise the rpm's, but my hopes are for less slippage at light throttle. I have some time today, I'll try to install the new tach that has been sitting here for months. For some reason certain things keep getting pushed aside.

  7. #77
    Registered Member chasracer's Avatar
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    Sounds good. Maybe you could ease it up to high gear, then whack it a good one?

    And yeah you're correct, my mistake on looking at his posts - it was okay until he got all pissy about not accepting his viewpoint as the only acceptable one.

    Good news is that I am a couple days from finally finishing a house flip (5+ months now) so I am getting ready to drag my '55 back in the shop for some major work this winter. I am aiming for the first TnT sessions at the strip in the spring. We normally get going around here about mid-March depending on the weather of course.

    Anyone looking for a $212,000 brick home in the west end of Richmond, Virginia with 1200sf, 3 bedroom, 2 bath. Everything is new - roofing, fiberglass front door/ heating/cooling/duct work/vinyl windows/kitchen appliances/kitchen cabinets/ceramic backsplash/ceramic tile flooring and bathroom upgrades/new carpeting/interior paint/trim work/lighting and fans. Large fenced yard, walk-in storage area underneath part of the house and a small storage shed in back - new roof, paint and door. Extremely convenient to shopping, entertainment, schooling, work and access to bus line is available within a few blocks.

    Contact me with a PM and I will put in contact with our realtor. Thanks!
    Last edited by chasracer; 10-19-2018 at 06:42 AM.

  8. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by chasracer View Post
    Sounds good. Maybe you could ease it up to high gear, then whack it a good one?
    My governor is set to shift at 5500rpm at WOT (since it isn't a full manual valve body) so I'd have to be somewhere over 60mph for it to not kick down and stay in 3rd. On second thought, I could probably go much slower and nail it if I disconnect the kickdown switch at the carb.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

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