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Thread: From the Are You Kidding me Collection

  1. #11
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    The pcv, operating correctly, is better than the road draft tube. It also has nothing to do with that passage that is leaking.

    Silicone won't seal it.

    If you've diagnosed this correctly, and from your description you have - then your only option is to pull the head and fix what's wrong with the plug.

  2. #12
    Registered Member scorpion1110's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017

    Member #:3477
    Mount Airy, MD
    Hello Everyone.

    I just wanted to close the loop on this.

    Once I had identified the problem with everyone's help, I called the machine shop. I spoke to the owner and he said those oil galleys are a problem. They are a deep set and even though there is a taper, regular thread sealer isn't the best way to go; as it can squeeze out of the threads and eventually the oil pressure can cause a leak (likely my case at 60lb). When he himself does a block he actually uses an industrial type epoxy sealant that is removable on any rebuild and block vatting. I think the machinist who did my block was simply unaware of the issue, and I believe the issue arose because Chevy discontinued those plugs in 2013 so they are sourcing differently.

    Anyway, I decided to simply have him pull the heads and fix the problem. The cost was nominal and he spent some time tuning the motor and checking things over, tightening and adjusting as necessary.

    Saw the car this morning. No leaks, runs great and the machine shop said my build of the motor was spot on.

    Car is on a rollback heading home right now.

    So if that oil galley plug has to come out for any reason, make sure it goes in with something more than thread sealer.



    1955 Chevy 2-door Wagon
    1970 Honda Trail 70

    I lost my best friend on 10/3/2018. Rest in Peace Dear Lucy. I will miss you.

  3. #13
    Registered Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012

    Member #:571
    I have seen blocks where the plug just had a plain flat top. To remove it you'd have to drill a hole in it and use an EZout or similar means. I guess the plug was installed before the block was machined at the factory, as the top of the plug was at the same height as the deck.

    Also on most blocks even where there is a female hex or square drive for the plug, the plug can be very difficult to remove, indicating that a powerful hardening sealant was used. Also, when you attempt to put a new plug in, it just seems to all of a sudden bottom out, the feel when you torque it is not the same as when you torque a typical good pipe plug into a typical good tapped hole. I always run a tap into that hole a turn or turn and a half if I remove the original plug, and also use a new plug. Because of all this many machine shops don't even remove this plug when they vat and overbore a block.

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