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Thread: torque converter street/strip

  1. #1
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    torque converter street/strip

    While I have the tranny out, I'm thinking of buying a higher stall converter but I'm really curious how it will act on the highway, like how much slippage it will have on the street. The one I'm looking at is a Summit brand https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2698

    What is with the "anti ballooning plate"? I noticed at jegs their similar converter says it's not recommended for BB's to choose from their heavy duty ones.
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  2. #2
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    I don't see any clues in your Summit link as to what the stall speed on this converter would be. What stall speed do you have now and what stall speed do you think you want?

    When you stall the converter, internal pressure tries to expand it. It can't expand to a bigger diameter, but it can expand lengthwise, especially on the front (flywheel) end. An anti-ballooning plate stiffens the front and keeps this from happening. If you are running a transbrake this becomes more important, but it could be needed if you stall against the foot brake too, or simply if your engine makes a lot of power.

    The higher the stall speed, the more it's going to slip on the highway. This makes heat, and you will need a big transmission cooler. It will also reduce your fuel mileage.

    Personally, with no real guidance on stall speed, and if you don't have a buddy running one that can give you some real world feedback on that, I'd pass on that one and keep shopping.

  3. #3
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    They sort of hide the stall rating. It's rated at 3,000rpm. The cam calls for 2500+. My current one is rated at 2400rpm. IDK, is an increase of 600 worthwhile?

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...ion-type/th400

  4. #4
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    It will certainly make a difference in both performance and cruising. I can't say how much.

  5. #5
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    I have never been a fan of discount convertors, go with a name brand A1, TCI etc stay away from Alabama Boss Hog, GER Here is a clue in the early 80s I paid $250 for a 10 inch TCI street strip convertor, that was rebuilt in the 90s to 10 inch race and it still resides in my 74 Z28 drag car. Yes, it has an anti balloon plate. If you want cheap go find an old Vega and pull the convertor.
    Last edited by markm; 08-22-2018 at 06:27 AM.

  6. #6
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    I've had an engine vibration for a long time now, don't remember when it started, so while the tranny is out was thinking of changing the flex plate. With the side mounts in place and the exhaust holding most of the weight plus a jack also underneath the motor, I started it up and I get no vibration. Smooth as silk. I had tried it before with the converter unbolted and slid back and then it still had the vibration. So why not now? The only thing I can think of it that the center of the converter may have still been inside the crankshaft a little bit.

  7. #7
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    No good reason, what you suspect may have been the cause but it shouldn't have if it wasn't rotating. Was it rotating or not?

    BTW, I fully agree with markm's statements about cheap torque converters. You get what you pay for in most cases.

  8. #8
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    No, it wasn't rotating with the 3 bolts out, I don't *think* it was anyway? That was the purpose of taking the bolts out. That converter is a TCI. I know this wouldn't be normal practice, but do you think I can bolt the converter on without the tranny and start it without a catastrophe? My *new* tranny came with what I assume is a factory converter, so if it vibrates with my TCI I could double check with the factory one.

  9. #9
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    This may be stupid but it won't be my first time, can you tell if this looks like a stock GM converter?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Tony

    1955 Bel Air Sport Coupe

  10. #10
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    Sure looks stock to me. Is it 12" diameter? Looks to be.

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